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Gorgeous

Id say your nitrates are the problem. 20ppm is enough to kill a shrimp over a period of time. How long had you had it? How did you acclimatise it? Andy

You ideally need to mix salt the day before the water change, and if you are using tap water with no dechlorinators then thats going to cause no end of problems. Buy DI or RO water, its not expensive and if you can afford the livestock then you certainly can afford the water, tap water (as...

Agreed, 40% is a lot to change each week, do you have a heavy bioload? You only really need to change 10% each week to replace trace elements if your nutrients are under control. What did the water smell like? As for the sand comment, unless its a particularly deep sand bed, stirring it...

Depends what kind of live sand it is, the bagged stuff has usually been dry for weeks and therefore really isnt "live" anymore, if you use normal aragnite sand it will be 'seeded' by the live rock and therefore become live sand over time. The only real helpful kind of live sand is if it is taken...

Those are yellow polyps really not zoo's though a lot of people refer to them as zoos, nice mushroom too, i have a ric in my tank that looks similar to that. Shrimp looks almost like a peppermint shrimp from the pic, does it have a pinkish tone to its flesh? Andy

Zoo/Ric Garden all the way, though if you have the same luck as me with finding decent colour morphs it may take a while. Damn UK Zoo's

Calibrating to 0 with pure RO isnt always the best idea, as it gets less accurate the further away the level is from the realistic levels you should be testng, better to calibrate it to 1.023 or 1.025, you could go to a LFS, get them to give you a sample of water that they know is at a certain...

Urchin - Not sure about that one but SH has kept a longspine urchin in his 24 gallon for a while now i believe. Crab - Any predatory crab will become opportunistic, theres a possibility that an emerald crab could kill a hermit or snail, but i have never had any problems with the two i have had...

Anemones arent corals, and corals arent anemones, completely different things.

The hermits should be alright, theyre pretty hardy. Make sure you add all your live rock before adding any live stock, even cured live rock will have some dieoff from the store to your home unless kept in water and could possibly start a mini-cycle, which it looks like your coming out of. Do...

Redirect constant flow to that area, if the pipe organ can handle the current. Also look into the rotating water deflectors like the Hydor Flo, when i added one of these it ridded all the remaining areas of Cyno i had within a week. Andy

Interestingly, i saw a rock at my LFS today with both of these corals growing on it.

80 Degrees is not low at all, in fact i dont let my tank run higher than that. 75 Degrees would be fine, its stability that is the key, keeping the temp within the same range. I think your just experiencing a late cycle, as for water changes if you change 50% then your figures should be half, so...

Nice post, you did forget to add that the nitrogen cycle is complete when the nitrate is exported as nitrogen gas, which is'nt harmful.

You will probably have a lot of pest algae from the sunlight, and it may be difficult to keep a tank like that clean for long, thats my only thoughts.

Id be tempted to buy the tank, trade all the corals and livestock to a local LFS that will take them, along with the LR (unless you are really fond of the pieces). Then completely clean out the tank, throw the substrate, upgrade the main pump to a maxijet 1200 if it hasnt been already and start...

Certain buffers actually can be very useful, though ill only ever use 2 part solution. If you had a nano loaded with SPS you would have a hard job keeping up with Calcium and Alk demands simply by weekly water changes, so dosing 2 part is the safest way to do it. Not all buffers add "rubbish"...

Ski will you come over to the UK and mind my tank while i'm away :lol:

What happened to the mushrooms?