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While some adverts you see may well show fish that have been kept in these horribly designed tanks (in terms of fish needs), people will often the opportunity of selling a surplus tank to offload surplus fish at the same time from another tank or someone they know. ;)

Don't stress, your fish will still love you if you feed them and keep their water good. :) 

I would personally scrub Neon Tetras, Dwarf Gouramis and possibly Glowlights Tetras from that list. Neons tend to badly in new tanks, especially if the water is hard; Dwarf Gouramis can be prone to an infection that has been doing the rounds for several years. I've never thought of Glowlights as...

Given how barbs and tetras are social fish, they should not be kept in numbers less than 6 of their own species, in a bigger tank I would prefer to see a group of 10+ for such fish.   However, what dimensions does this 50l tank have? At best it will be just slightly smaller than my Juwel...

I lost most of my Aborichthys elongatus group (mentioned in the OPs cross-posting exact thread in another section, naughty naughty!) in the summer heatwave of 2010, when their initial tank hit 27C for a few weeks, even with water rippling. My surviving male has normally been kept at 22/23C, with...

Those tetras should all be in their own species groups of at least 6, but 26C is too warm as a permanent temp for Neons, who are low-end tropical (~22-24C).   Your tank will be fully stocked IMO once you sort out your current fish, but if you rehomed the Neons, you could replace them with a...

I've been looking at these Eccoflow pumps too, except I've been eyeing up the 1500, if it fits my Juwel that uses a 1000 pump.   Consider this a curiousity bump! ;)

I'm afraid to say the only fish suitable for your 30gal (especially if the is US gallons) are the Leopard Bushfish; Upside Down Catfish (depending upon what it is, singleton fiesty Synodontis nigrita need a good volume {~240l} 4-footer, very social and much smaller Synodontis nigriventris {~7cm...

Artificial rockwork can absolutely be used and will probably be an awful lot cheaper, its more about giving the fish a more normal environment (meant to mention this in original post). But sometimes you can find bargains, where someone is looking to sell 25-50Kg of aquarium safe rock.   I...

Best to get the same species of Corydoras, they schoal in groups in the thousands in the wild (some amazing youtube clips out there). I started with six Emerald Brochis, they were so much more active when I added another six.   But for upper water dither fish from South America, my top choice...

As above regarding filter removal, a long sharp blade can carefully cur the blobs of silicone holding the filter in place.   But as regards the filter poor performance, have you recently checked the impeller rotates without catching the cavity and have you cleaned the impeller/cavity with a damp...

They are Malawi species (besides the BN), right? In that case, overstocking does help spread aggression a lot, but at the same time you need "mammoth" filtration to keep the water good for these African cichlids.   Hareem groups of something like 1 male and 3 females per species would be my...

I would try placing them underneath each other on a short side aiming across a long side, one at the surface giving rippling for oxygenation, the other down low to gently waft debris around the tank floor, but not so far down that the sand/gravel gets blown away. This sort of scheme also gives...

I have this very same symptom going on, but I'm pretty sure what the issue is with my FX5. I'm expecting to find Eheim Substrat Pro media balls around the impeller cavity, probably the odd one lodged in the impeller too. Check the sleaving and rubber o-ring that the impeller section plugs into...

Hillstream Loaches need sub-tropical tanks (20-22C max) and ~10-20x real water turnover including lots of water surface rippling, to ensure the oxygen levels are superb. These fish have specialist blood cells that will not give up oxygen at low concentrations, effectively suffocating the fish.  ...

A slight variation on the "African oddball" setup is very doable in a 100x40x50cm tank... 1/3x African Butterfly Fish 1/3x Leopard Bushfish 6-10x Yellow Tail Congo Tetra 6-10x Upside Down Synodontis (nigriventris)   The more you get of the predators, the less space you really have for the social...

    Me too. Well you (or more accurately, your fish) have been the lucky ones... There are countless tales on forums where breeding Kribs have mamed/killed corydora groups, innocently passing the "family home."   Generally speaking, anything that gets within ~15cm of the Krib fry will be...

I only keep Ilyodon livebearers, but I do believe Mollies can thrive in hard freshwater alone, which you may have in Essex. But for those that keep them in water that is not "liquid rock," a gradual (depending upon what water chemistry they were bought in) acclimitisation to brackish waters does...

A "little birdie" told me there might be some nice Synodontis coming along too (no not mine, I found it bad enough letting go of my decora and flavitaeniata last year to an experinced syno keeper)! ;)

It is not guaranteed, but cories and kuhlis would stand far more chance IMO with South American dwarves like Apistos.

I would not risk a Krib pair with corydora (possibly mature related Brochis) or "Kuhli" Loaches (I say "Kuhli" because what most think of as that species are often Pangio semicinta, not Pangio kuhli), adult Zebra Loaches would probably be ok as would the Bleeding Hearts, Angelfish, BN Plec.  ...

 +1   So a standard UK 3W fuse should be used for anything upto 3x240volts (720Watts) in a UK standard 3-pin plug.

Let the existing fish grow and the tank mature, don't be so eager to make the tank a "sardine can."   It appears some think your rainbows are Dwarf Neon, but what are your corydora? You could have well in excess of 50cm of fish in a 70l tank (minus substrate; bogwood; internal filter etc).

Depends on many factors, including tank size and tankmates.   If housed in <4-foot tank with tankmates smaller and less robust than themselves, a single male would make a colourful addition without causing too much havok if added last to the tank.   If placed with typically peaceful but hardy...

Something like this but in the US would work... http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cs5500bp-quick-assembly-boltless-rackin   450Kg per shelf with an evenly distributed load.

Perhaps net it out and release it in a local pond/stream etc.

Another water change, this time ~95% (leaving just enough old water to cover the fish) ASAP.   If you use Seachem Prime, I would would add excess to the first few buckets of fresh water to help mop up any remaining toxins for 24 hours, by  which time hopefully the stats have settled down.   IME...

The fish will need heck of a lot longer than 30mins to adjust to a 22C temp increase, the shock would kill it more than likely!   When raising tank temp for Ich to ~30C, the general guideline is 1C increase per hour maximum, so you are talking at least 22 hours of tiny thermostat increases.  ...

Potentially, two "B"s could hold more water :p

Your stocking is more in line with a small volume 4-footer like my 120x30x37cm 140l, when each social species is given 10 of its own. Far too many groups and fish in general for a 75l, another case of what I call "tardis stocking."

What can breed in your tank will depend upon the chemistry of the water you are using. I have quite hard gH 13/14 water in my tanks and have raised Pearl Danio; Golden Wonder Killifish; Lionhead Cichlid; Limones Goodeid; (Hageni?) Halfbeak fry. 

Heaters need to be placed in the flow of filters/powerheads, so that the heater's thermostat is picking up a true reading of the whole tank's temperature.   How much heating is needed in a tank depends upon the ambient temperature of the air around the tank. My back room is normally ~24C this...

 Maybe it is just me, but I read that as meaning you will get store credit for taking in unwanted fish... So you could buy anything in the shop (plants, decor, food etc.) with the credit note if you did not want to buy more fish.

Good luck building the olympic sized swimming "pond" you will need...   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FcecafIWTo   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29U787KK6ck

Sell some other tanks, I have no more room for addtional tanks after finally setting up my 72x18x18 for my "Congo Rapids" fish!

Adding newly purchased fish straight into your main tank is like playing "Russian Roulette," eventually odds will catch up with your fish and a newly introduced specimen will bring a lethal bullet to your whole community. Keep new fish quarantined for 3-6 weeks, a basic plastic tub can suffice...

Something went wrong with your photo upload, but I do have a ~7cm male Aborichthys elongatus, "Mr Squidgy" has been with me since June 2010 (thanks to "Vickyandkev" on the forum, who did have an an account with  Wholsale Tropical in Fareham). They are sometimes given the common name Indian Red...

What are the dimensions of the tank?   What fish (species and numbers) have you already got in the tank that makes you think you are bordering on being overstocked?   Corydoras are a very social fish, it would be far better to increase the numbers of an existing species in the tank than to add 2...

Besides the whole potential pollution issue, it would be extremely dangerous to just tip that bucket of rainwater in without knowing how its chemistry compares to your current tank water. The rainwater will probably have minimal hardness and if your tank water is not similar, a sudden change...

The numerous thin black/white strips on the tail fin should be a good clue as to which Synodontis species this is, but I'm unable to get my brain in gear at the moment and there are one or two species to look through... http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/genus.php?genus_id=29#278   I suggest...