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Good video :good: My male cyps do the same when sorting the pecking order :)

Corys are a definate no no for malawi/mbuna :no: Synodontis petricola and multipunctatus are ok for the malawi/mbuna tanks but need to be kept in groups of 4-6. Bristlenose and rusty plecs are also ok with the malawi/mbuna :good:

I personally would say that 100L is too small to house the mbuna species but if the point is highlighted then it`s another persons choice as to whether they can/will go bigger with tank size. I would say at the moment that your problem is due to not enough numbers to make the ones you have...

What size is the tank and are there any other fish in there, if so what type?

Have a look at the Arcadia tanks, they`re nice, very well priced and would give plenty of room to a betta :good:

I`d steer well clear of that shop if that guy said those fish could be kept together? The second is a definite aulonocara female and has completely different requirements to the thomasi.

Yes it`s 5'. The ventralis imo are a nice addition, they`re very 'zippy' and busy and now that they`re breeding the male does chase the females quite vigorously so a long tank is necessary for them. They spend most of their time mid-top level so with the other fish I have it means that all...

To give you some idea of stocking for that size tank........I have a 380L tank stocked with: 11 cyprichromis leptosoma 2 black calvus 1 goldhead compressicep 1 Julidochromis dickfeldi 1 pair of Caudopunctatus 5 Ophthalmotilapia ventralis Out of the dickfeldi and the calvus I`d say the calvus...

Unless someone is very experienced with the mbuna I would strongly advise to stay away from the demasonii, they`re extremely high on aggression and it`s advised generally to keep them with other highly aggressive fish or in a species only tank. They apparently should be kept in numbers of approx...

I have a 380L malawi/mbuna setup which houses both peacocks and mbuna, apart from one dominant male mpanga being top dog over the sub dom male I have no aggression in the tank at all, even when the dom has a go at the sub dom it`s not bad or nasty aggression. You could have a mix but as with...

I have 4 petricola in with my mbuna and peacocks with no problems. As long as you have a lot of rocks/cave areas for the syno`s to hide in they`ll be fine and will learn to stay out of the way. You`ll probably find that the synos stay hidden most of the time but will become more active in the...

This is where lots of research is a must so that compatible species are stocked together instead of a pot luck mish mash of aggression. I`ve had my malawi/mbuba setup running for a while now and I opted for the Tanganyikans for the first big tank as I thought the /malawi/mbunas would be way...

The smaller Mbuna Africans would be better suited to a tank that size. Have a google for mbuna such as socolofi, mpanga, neon spot. You could also have 4 or 5 yellow labs. You would have to stock heavily with the mbuna as it will help to cut down on any aggression, ratio of 1 male to 2 or 3...

Norman looks like a Norma who is due to have fry :unsure: Do you have other yellow labs in the tank?

Nope, still not working for me :unsure: Not sure if you can see anything at the following link but you may be able to tell if it`s the same as the fish you have: http://bluegrassaquatics.com/cichlids/malawi-inventory-2/labidochromis-chisumulae.html

The link isn`t taking me to anything to do with fish :unsure:

I`d recommend the 305 :good:

Can`t help as I`ve never used it, sorry :/

I use 2 of the T5 marine white tubes on both my Tanganyikan and Malawi cichlid tanks :good:

For the 180L I would suggest bigger than a 205 if you`re considering the Fluval externals. I found that the smaller filters weren`t man enough to filter very well on my previous 180L setup ;)

As already said, the corys are intolerant of salt.......any amount of salt, even a teaspoon....100% freshwater means no salt at all. Unless you stop using salt in your tank you can`t keep corys :no:

+1 Approximately 10" so I hope you have a decent-big sized tank :unsure:

I`m in Dorset. Shame you`re not closer as I usually have malawi/mbuna fry growing on in my 20L. :/

Looking forward to pics of the new additions Mark :good: Michael, where do you live? :unsure:

This is a venustus, doesn`t have the yellow fins though :/

One main thing that I haven`t seen anyone advise you of is to aerate the surface of the water more if you`re raising the temperature, as the higher the temp the less oxygen is in the water and your fish will begin to gasp at the surface and could die :/ Good luck, hope she gets it sorted :)

+1 :good:

Looks like a very bad mix of everything in that tank :/

Pretty little fish but require lots of hiding places and much softer water/lower ph than any of the Tangs :/ Ok I`m biased for the Tangs :lol:

In all the time I`ve been keeping fish I`ve never left water to 'stand' :no: I drain out, refill from the kitchen mixer tap and add Seachem Prime dechlorinator while the tank is refilling ;)

Kribs with Tangs? No, definitely not :no: 2ft isn`t actually a big size to be honest but you could have either a pair (or 2 pairs) of multifasciatus or brevis in there and one julidochromis, dickfeldi or marlieri will hopefully stay small enough and use the rocks as it`s area. Neolamprologus...

They are gorgeous, unfortunately too expensive though :angry: I 'think' they`re also called Orange Laser Cory (Corydoras aeneus)?, there is apparently many different variants. There`s some info on them and the bronze corys etc here...

Not sure because my test is ppm, this might help though: http://www.unitconversion.org/unit_converter/concentration-solution.html

I have to admit that I can wholly relate to it :blush: :blush: :lol: :lol: It`s so spot on that even my Husband has just read it and had a giggle :lol: :lol:

Ammonia and nitrite should always be at 0, both can contribute towards illnesses and death of your fish, nitrates vary and generally seem to be between 20-40 in other members taps/tanks. Unless nitrates begin to creep towards the 100 then you should be fine. ;)

No problem, you`re welcome B-) The only problem I can see with you catching the female (or any of your females) so early on is that due to stress she may possibly spit the fry before they are developed enough. If possible in future I would suggest that you try and wait until the 3 week point...

The female cannot eat whilst holding so there is no point in giving her any food :no: As the females hold for approx 4 weeks she`s going to really need food once she spits though so give her a small amount to get her eating again. The fry will eat finely crushed flake food or tiny bits that...

I`m not 100% sure from personal experience of keeping them, but from what I`ve read they are sexually mature at approx 1.5" in size :unsure:

Try searching for 60`s Soul or 60`s Motown :/

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