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Looking good as always Ski. It's amazing how steep the learning curve is in this hobby I bet you couldn't of answered half of the questions that came up 12 months ago now your the oracle for a lot of us. 1 question though. Are you providing all of your flow with the seio and the sump return or...

my wife louiserats betta dash video http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r221/Ja...04-10-06030.flv

Nice one ski :good: but the plumbing is all sorted I meant a little advice on assembling the overflow and fixing in place but don't worry I've made a good start.

Another vote for Goby-Won-Kwnobi!

Thanos is a cool name but just doesn't roll off the tounge so Mr Bigglesworth it is although I still think Manfred was best. ;)

Decided to go with a glass oveflow with a blue plastic facing after weighing up the pros and cons. Bought the glass today and have begun construction. For anybody who is going to do this I have begun construction outside of the tank by siliconing the 2 pieces togeather at 90° and once that has...

Bit the bullet and bought the glass for the overflow today. Went for 16" tall in the end and will add the comb to fill the inch beween the top of the overflow and the bracing. Fingers crossed it's enough. I'll start construction tonight. Anyone got any hints on the best way to approach this?

Thanks Ski, I'm using an eheim 1250 for the return but I've scrapped the spraybar idea I was originally thinking of. There seem to be calculators around for everything just wondered if there was one for this. Definitely on track but if I flood the place again the better half will most likely...

Waveace in response to your questions. 1. The tank will have a hood but I'll build after I have set the waterline for just that reason. I want to keep as much depth as possible but still allow enough room in the tank for the content of the return chamber should the overflow ever get blocked...

Hi folks, As many may be aware I am in the midst of a tank upgrade and building my own weir. The question I need answered is... is it possible to calculate the height increase of the water in the display when the return pump is running as opposed to when it is off. Failing that is there a set...

You got it have a look here for more info. :good:

Well worth a thought although would be tricky set setup as the sump is normally (and is in my case) devided into sections with water at different heights. The saftey for me once this is setup properly is that the sumpp will have sufficient volume free for the tank to drain to the top of the weir...

Turned the project into 'proper science' today by flooding the carpet not once, not twice but three times :hyper: Got all the plumbing sorted so decided to shorten the standpipe and run it all up before making joints permanent. Slotted everything together using a plastic tub as a temporary sump...

Couldn't agree more expecially when you fit it to a nano. I am upgrading atm so am not too worried but if it was staying a nano there is no way I'd keep it. It does a great job but is just too intrusive in the tank. To get mine working happily I had a nightmare few days and ended up doing the...

Another little update I've assembled the control box for the auto topup which is a relay powered system with LED's to show status simple but effective and cost less than £25 all in. I have aquired :hey: a ball valve foc from a redundant RO system at work and picked up a used Eheim 1050 for...

I have a battery powered gravel vac from Hagen which sends the water through a filter sock before it goes back to the tank and was only £10. Might be worth a look.

Not sure if it has been said but the red sea max recently won a lot of awards and comes highly recommended from most mags but from a personal point of view I prefer the flexibility of creating your own system. From having a good nose around it at the LFS it does look good and well thought out.

:bday: Ski hope you have a great day.

Thanks again Matt. There is a swimming pool supplier up the road so I'll give them a call. It'll fit my big hammer says soLOL ;)

OK a little more progress made today. I've built up and glued the durso standpipe and have cut all the pipework for the return. I've also marked out the position for the sump and organised the plumbing under the tank. I've also modified a water container to use as an auto topup resevoir and...

Thanks Matt. I've found a guy on fleebay who sells it either by A4, A3 500mmx500mm or made to order works out to around £10 for an A3 size piece. Only problem is I was hopeing for blue but he only lists black, white or clear in 6mm. All the coloured stuff is 3mm. If anyone would like a link to...

Thanks guys. :good: Been everywhere today looking for 1" PVC pipe to make up the durso standpipe but not had any joy :angry: so I've had to go for 1 1/4" instead. If I did my research right I think the standpipe is supposed to be 1 size up from the size of the bulkhead (mine are 3/4") but the...

OK so I started my tank upgrade this weekend by building a stand for my new tank which is now 80% complete. Needs doors a a few bits of trim to complete and I have a couple of questions as I'll be starting the plumbing this week. Is it best to keep the drain or return to/from the sump as short...

Why not run the sump return to the smaller display tank then overflow into the main display then back to the sump. Would mean less equipment in the main tank and gain the same effect.

Fraid not, T5 and T8 use differnt lighting ballasts.

Good thought Andy how would I go about sealing it or is it as simple as siliconing a piece of glass over the hole the same thickness as the tank base.

All seems well he took food today with no problems and he appears ok colours bright and behaving normally. My lonely clown is now much happier as he has a friend. He's taken to following the wrasse eveywhere.

Orangy brown film, new tank more than likely diatoms. If your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels are ok it's time for clean up crew and if your not already using it get some Rowaphos in the system. It'll help keep the algae under control.

No can do as far as I'm aware. T8 ballast will also run T12 but not T5.

That was my original idea but was a little concerned as it will be effectively free standing at the base and don't want the risk of a small rock slide knocking it and causing 55 usg to flood my front room. Best 2 ideas I can think of atm are to either use flexible hose and run it back to the...

I would advise to run it all the time. That way you stay one step ahead of the algae and their is no detrimental affect to running it 24/7. I think it lasts for up to 6 weeks so it's not a huge expense to prevent lots of problems.

Took a trip tto the lfs this morning to pick up a couple of corys for the fw tank and noticed a PJ wrasse and had to have him. Got him home and was going through the acclimatisation as normal, float bag add small amounts of water etc and when I went to add the 4th lot noticed the bag was empty...

You guys are talking about the drop off look. This kind of thing Tip for this style though, if you remove water from the display during water changes don't pile the rock too high or it'll be left high and dry.

OK I need some ideas. The tank I have has been drilled for 2 3/4" bulkheads in the base. I'll be using one for the overflow with a durso standpipe and the other for the return. At least thats the plan :) The problem is that the hole has been drilled 4" for the corner and then 4" into the tank...

There are others available but rowaphos seems to give the best results. The advice I recieved was to use a black wet media not the dry grey media as the later can leech phosphate etc back into the system once it's used whereas the former keeps it locked away. Lots of places sell it online...

Sorry to echo the above but I would suspect your test kit as being faulty if you have been doing regular water changes. I'd take a sample to the lfs and have them test it.

Thanks, I couldn't believe my luck when he told about the tanks shows it pays to be friends with your LFS. Keep your eyes out for a new journal I'll be putting the stand together either this week or the weekend.

Diatoms are fueled mainly by Silicate but thankfully Rowaphos removes both phosphate and silicate. Rowaphos is a trade name for a phosphate remover but is recommended by most people in the hobby. Just google it I think they have a website.

Another good cuc member is a Money Cowrie unlike the tiger cowries these don't prefer coral to algae and don't release toxins should they pass away but are great for taking care of hair algae.

Don't mean to step out of line but I though 2 lb's per ugs was the max.