To Katchan....I'd have to go back ..it's been so long..but...I believe I didnt' add my first corals until a month or month and a half after cycling. My first additions were hardy, softies, polyps. I think I made one 'limit push' addition and it probably was because I would have lost availability (some corals don't become available for months or are very difficult to obtain). Certainly, NO ONE should add corals during an outbreak of hair algae or cyanobacteria. I may have made a risky choice, but, I always heavily research my corals before adding them as I do with my fish.
I have always recommended to go slow with nano tanks. IMO, no one should add any corals for weeks after cycling. To date, I have lost only one coral.....my purple ribbon gorgonian and these are difficult to keep under any circumstances. I was successful for several months and saved it once with a FW dip. I am losing parts of a colony of sun corals, but, that is because they are nitrate traps and I am trying to focus on several in the colony to keep them alive. I always recommend to people to avoid common traps/pitfalls with nano tanks:
1) adding anemones
2) adding corals right after cycling; placing conflicting corals in the tank and causing toxin wars (eg Devil's Hand next to LPS)
3) adding fish that don't do well in a nano (tangs, flame angels, hawkfish, some dottybacks, same species combos) and overstocking, fish that grow over 5 inches
4) adding non reefsafe/fish safe inverts...boxer shrimp, Sally Lightfoots, arrow crabs
5) adding potentially toxic animals...nudibranchs, sea stars and sea apples
...to name a few.
To Kenny...the Palm light is doing fine. My only rec would be to look into the larger one (?14")..it will give more light over the entire length of the back chamber. Be aware that there is backwash of light at night from behind the tank. SH