Underwurldes - Diy Auto Top Off Project

Hmm, I factored that into my choice of components... (Hence the MOQ column), and component totals were indeed collated to this.

ho hum,

Andy

Yea its no problems mate.... Can you think of anything else needed before I press the button to order?

Did you get sleep?
 
I'd wait until I've finished the PCB for sure. Next day delivery won't make any difference and at least the components will be correct.

Progress: AT LAST, I've entered all footprint data for the components into Protel and have imported them into the PCB half of Protel along with the case outline and PCB outline. Everything is rats nested - but then again, that the whole point of Protel.

So, todo list:

Place components inside PCB outline (in otherwords, in the box).
If all fits, great. If not, spend another hour choosing a 3rd box that it WILL fit into (never quite sure of enclosures until this stage reached anyway).
Route the PCB!
*Done*

....

Oh yeah, almost forgot! :rolleyes: Export PCB into the LPKF machine & get that PCB made for you....

Not long now I hope, boring labourious stuff done, down hill crusing I hope from now on....

Andy
 
Dude, erm... I've ordered the bits about 30mins ago :crazy: I'm sure much should not change hey :hey:

Nice one mate, would be great if I understood what you meant tho, rats nested, LKPF machine - how jealous :ninja:

Cant wait!! :yahoo:
 
I'd better get it in the bloody box then! See for yourself:

RatsNest.gif


OK, see all the bluey lines going all over the place, from component pin to component pin? That is a visual aid to when it comes to routing the PCB. This is a very, very simple PCB, but on some I do, these lines look an utter mess, hence the term 'Rat's nest' (a general term, anyone who does PCB will know instantly what you mean).

Andy
 
Jesus Andy, thats insane :teacher:

I kinda understand though, years ago I used to programme CNC machines (metal and wood) - I used to design on Licom Alpha CAD then export to the Alpha CAM, throw it through a post processor then edit the lil bits of N code before sending down the pipes to the machines :hey:

I guess your PCB machine works in kinda the same way?
 
No different!

I'm 50-50 as to weather I can get it all in though. Hmmm. :crazy:

Bath time methinks, rest the ol' nut. :drool:

Andy
 
No different!

I'm 50-50 as to weather I can get it all in though. Hmmm. :crazy:

Bath time methinks, rest the ol' nut. :drool:

Andy

Groovy!! I understand summin... :blush:

Do what you gotta do mate, if we need a bigger enclosure I will have to sell another body part :drool:
 
Lol, hope you don't have heat issues with that power supply or rectifier in such a small space :unsure:
 
Good question, one worth concentrating on:

The relay when on takes: I = 12/300R (coil) = 40mA
The are 4 LEDs (just say that they are all on for the sake of argument) @ 10mA each = 40mA

so @12V = P=80mA x 12V = 1W

The regulator is dropping lets say from 20V at rectified Transformer output to 12V, i.e. 8V, so the reg dissipates 8 x 80ma = 0.6W

So total + transformer losses, say about 2 watts. Not an insignificant amount but by no means anything to worry about, that size of box (enclosed with no cooling), lets guess at 10C above ambient.

Andy

BTW, I fitted all the bits in the box, with loads of clearance around mains bits and mega clearance areas for mains tracking. The routing looks at first glance to be a synch too and this is going just single sided and hopefully NO wire links (the holy grail of PCB routing in other words).
 
2 watts, no big deal at all :). I'm so used to working with larger duty components (10 ton chillers, 100amp powersupplies, etc) that any sight of powersupplies and rectifiers sharing the same space without cooling makes my stomach turn :lol:
 
BTW, I fitted all the bits in the box, with loads of clearance around mains bits and mega clearance areas for mains tracking. The routing looks at first glance to be a synch too and this is going just single sided and hopefully NO wire links (the holy grail of PCB routing in other words).

Knew you could do it!! :hooray:

Good thing about the heat too... Glad you think its easy, I like the idead of dropping components into prebuilt and labelled boards :blush:
 
Ahhh.... got home and look what was here!! How quick was that?

Anyway, here are the parts (minus the sensors coming from the US)

ATF%20Parts.JPG
 
LOL. Why does that pic make me laugh?

OK, progress:

None today - I have spent all day in Alton with a like minded company. (I've just got back & I'm knacked).

So, 90% of the work on the PCB is done, over the weekend I shall finally route it. On Monday (hopefully) I shall transfer the Gerber files over to the LPKF machine and get a PCB done. I'll then send it off, hopefully to you for Wednesday (ish).

I like the idead of dropping components into prebuilt and labelled boards
The boards won't be labelled (silk screened that is). But I will provided the next best thing: A 1:1 scale placement diagram. These boards come in as large copper clad boads out of which the tracks are cut (around) / milled. It's quite clever really, but note it won't be a 'professional' PCB, unless you've got 300 or so quid to spare of course!

Anyway, here are the parts (minus the sensors coming from the US)
What kind? Got a link please?

Andy
 
LOL. Why does that pic make me laugh?

Cus its geeky? :teacher:

So, 90% of the work on the PCB is done, over the weekend I shall finally route it. On Monday (hopefully) I shall transfer the Gerber files over to the LPKF machine and get a PCB done. I'll then send it off, hopefully to you for Wednesday (ish).

Will be great, will PM you in a bit

The boards won't be labelled (silk screened that is). But I will provided the next best thing: A 1:1 scale placement diagram. These boards come in as large copper clad boads out of which the tracks are cut (around) / milled. It's quite clever really, but note it won't be a 'professional' PCB, unless you've got 300 or so quid to spare of course!

Thats superb, will it show oritentation, knowing me the odd resistor may end up the wrong way :crazy: . I get the process now, how cool is that...

What kind? Got a link please?

Check here, good price in comparision with the UK and only charges once no matter how many sensor get ordered
 
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Who'd have thought float switches were so expensive. I guess they are so becuase they need to be sealed... (A reed switch & a floating magnet would've sufficed).

Thats superb, will it show oritentation, knowing me the odd resistor may end up the wrong way.
Yes, everthing. (erm, resistors don't have orientation).

Components that do will be:
diodes (do you know how to identify the cathode & anode?)
electrolytic capacitors (do you know how to identify the [+] & [-] legs?)
IC's (do you know how to identify pin 1?)
LEDs (do you know how to identify the cathode & anode?)
Bridge rectifier (do you know how to identify [+][-][~][~]?)

I have to ask! Some of the components will simply not work if you get them wrong (the diodes LEDs & bridge rectifier) others will blow up (electrolyics & ICs).

Andy

PS
Do NOT make the mistake of soldering ALL the bits in, plugging into mains & hoping the whole thing will just work. You have to have some nounce about you (again, I have to ask as I don't want you wasting money on breaking things). When the time comes, if you want' I will tell you the assembly & testing process that I would go through if I were building it. It may be a good idea, certainly when wiring up the PSU, that you provide close-up photos of your assembly work so that I can at the very least visually inspect it for you if you think that's a good idea. If the worst comes to the worst, I'm quite happy for you to send me the whole thing so that I can get it working for you if you get stuck.... But hey, where's the fun in that? :shifty:
 

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