Underwurldes - Diy Auto Top Off Project

[Underwurlde]

Oh, & lucky guess, the float switch should work as is (no need for the inverter part of the circuit IC2B to be 'cut in').

Andy

 

[sophos9]

Yes, everthing. (erm, resistors don't have orientation).

Components that do will be:
diodes (do you know how to identify the cathode & anode?) - Yep, cathode is resembled by the line (or K on the schematic)
electrolytic capacitors (do you know how to identify the [+] & [-] legs?) Should have one of the leads marked as +
IC's (do you know how to identify pin 1?) Dont they have a notch or dot on pin1?
LEDs (do you know how to identify the cathode & anode?) Cathode has the flat piece inside the LED
Bridge rectifier (do you know how to identify [+][-][~][~]?) Can you let me know this one plz

I have to ask! Some of the components will simply not work if you get them wrong (the diodes LEDs & bridge rectifier) others will blow up (electrolyics & ICs).

It should be fine!!

Andy

PS
Do NOT make the mistake of soldering ALL the bits in, plugging into mains & hoping the whole thing will just work. You have to have some nounce about you (again, I have to ask as I don't want you wasting money on breaking things). When the time comes, if you want' I will tell you the assembly & testing process that I would go through if I were building it. It may be a good idea, certainly when wiring up the PSU, that you provide close-up photos of your assembly work so that I can at the very least visually inspect it for you if you think that's a good idea. If the worst comes to the worst, I'm quite happy for you to send me the whole thing so that I can get it working for you if you get stuck.... But hey, where's the fun in that?

Sure thing mate, will test he circuit before doing anything then get some photos before powering up!!

Thanks for all your help mate!

 

[Underwurlde]

Yep, cathode is resembled by the line (or K on the schematic) - correct. On the diode itself, by a black band at one end of the glass body.
Should have one of the leads marked as +: Not quite - one of the leads will be marked by a '-'. Also the '+' lead is longer that the '-' lead.
Dont they have a notch or dot on pin1? A notch in the end of the body is the LHS, a notch denotes pin 1, Counting then counter-clockwise (for e.g. an 8-pin device) will go, from Bottom Left to Bottom Right, 1, 2, 3, 4, then the top RIGHT to top left, 5, 6, 7, 8.
Cathode has the flat piece inside the LED: correct - again the longer lead is the anode (the more positive going side) and the short the cathode (the negative going side).
Can you let me know this one plz: Get it out of the packet - it's marked on the body! Also the [+] lead is the flattened body side, either side of '+' are the '~' terminals, the '-' is opposite.


OK routing of the PCB is complete. I didn't quite get away with a single sided PCB - I had to route just 2 tracks using wire links.

Ho-hum.

I'll post pics later. If anyone wants the actual Gerber files, PM me.

Andy

 

[sophos9]

Get it out of the packet - it's marked on the body! Also the [+] lead is the flattened body side, either side of '+' are the '~' terminals, the '-' is opposite.

Walked into that one right!?!

Nice one mate, cant wait to see the circuit!!

 

[Underwurlde]

Tadaa!

Yep, quite a squeeze that one. The red tracks represent what will be top side wire links.

Andy

 

[sophos9]

Wow.... how awesome is that? Looks plenty packed!!

Cant wait to see it!!

 

[sophos9]

Actually, looking at them, I cannot really see the difference?

 

[Underwurlde]

Hey you're right. Silly me. Let's not waste any more time & effort then and not bother with the PCB then?

Andy

 

[Underwurlde]

Now, are you happy about everything you see there?

I am designing this thing completely blind. I have neither the box, nor the parts to hand.

With the above picture in mind, get the box out and the parts & see if things really do go together as I've laid them out. Will things clash?

Think not only of the parts inside the box, but of those outside it. What about wiring it into your system with the float switch and alarm (this could be placed inside the box).

How would you like the outside of the box to look like. I have been a bit cunning in my design of the PCB - hopefully even panel mounting parts can be soldered directly onto the PCB (apart from the POT). Hence there will at least be room directly above those parts for placement on the lid. e.g. the on / off swich, the enable disable switch, the POT and the LEDs (there's something we forgot - LED panel mounting holders).

So, have a headscratch now. Best know of any things that may need moving about now (before I mahe the PCB) rather than later.

Andy

Note: Re the last picture of the routed PCB. Colour coded thus:

Light blue - box outline / physical restrictions. Q) does the box you have come with PCB support pillars that slide into slots on the inside of the box - you'll see that I have accomodated for use of 4 of them: 2 on the left & two on the right - I have had to guess at their dimentions.
Yellow - component outlines and placement text.
magenta - Board outline.
Grey - holes and associated solder pads.
Dark blue - bottom side tracking (will actually be the mirror image of what you'll see here).
Red - top side tracking. - won't be on the PCB, you'll need to wire link.

 

[sophos9]

Hey you're right. Silly me. Let's not waste any more time & effort then and not bother with the PCB then?

Andy

Then your PM Inbox will be permanently full with loads of stupid questions... Imagine how stupid I feel posting that then watching your designs and diagrams coming on

Keep that PCB coming

 

[sophos9]

Andy, totally appreciate that.

The layout looks fine, location of LED's, POT and mains are good - switches are fine too... OK, the buzzer and switches. I can get a 12v connector plug and wire the switches into that, as for the buzzer - what do you recommend?

Dropped some of the key components in, they seems to fit well too. The box only comes with 4 screws, will have to pick some of those pillars up (Maplins?)

Heres a quick snap...

 

[Underwurlde]

God I'm good. No, honestly I am. Anyone?.... (tumble weed).

Bloody cheap-skates. Usually those boxes come with the PCB holders. They slot into grooves. Hell the datasheet for the box even had a drawing of it.

Go see for yourself & when you find it, post a link would you?

I can get a 12v connector plug and wire the switches into that

erm, not with you there mate.

as for the buzzer - what do you recommend?

I'll get back to you on that one.

Andy

 

[pengy666]

So whats the plan of action if it works? If you wouldnt mind someone else building one?

What I mean is if t works, how much would you guys want for the parts to build it and for designing it?

I mean least you could do is charge for the drawings and designs and parts list to build it??

How much for the pcb or is it gonna be a one off?

 

[sophos9]

God I'm good. No, honestly I am. Anyone?.... (tumble weed)

You are good fella, no doubt about that.... Tumbles weeds remind of the beginning on "The Big Lebowski"

Bloody cheap-skates. Usually those boxes come with the PCB holders. They slot into grooves. Hell the datasheet for the box even had a drawing of it.


Go see for yourself & when you find it, post a link would you?

Roger that!! Will try and source some...

I can get a 12v connector plug and wire the switches into that

erm, not with you there mate.

Check this one out - switches can be plugged in easily

I'll get back to you on that one.

Groovy!

 

[Underwurlde]

So whats the plan of action if it works? If you wouldnt mind someone else building one?

What I mean is if t works, how much would you guys want for the parts to build it and for designing it?

I mean least you could do is charge for the drawings and designs and parts list to build it??

How much for the pcb or is it gonna be a one off?

Everything you need is buried in this thread, drawing, designs, parts list. I have designed this for whoever want to make it themselfs, so by all means, feel free, make one, expand on it, improve it (all I ask is that any improvements get fed back here).

Before I think about how much I'd / Sophos (if he's willing) would charge to make one, I'm going to wait until the thing works first - I don't like getting ahead of myself.

As for just the PCB, a PM discussion settled at about a tenner. (They do take a long time to make on the 'rapid' prototyping machine). If it really takes off and there is loads of genuine interest in this project then I may invest a couple of hundred quid and get some 'proper' PCBs made. There will be no profit in it, just a small amount to cover any time it takes to build - I have spent about 12 hours on this 'for free' - I don't begrudge that, as I enjoy doing this stuff, esp for polite ppl such as Sophos.

So, the parts alone cost £30 (I still reckon only £20ish. I'll have to have a look at that again), £10 for the PCB, £10 to make it, £5 for P&P. So expect a built up one to cost about £55 to £60. That still sounds a lot to me..... But again, if there are many orders, then I shoould expect the cost to come down to between £40 to £50. It's all there for everyone to see.

Andy