Underwurldes - Diy Auto Top Off Project

Andy, this is your show fella... I totally appreciate the help you have given and the time put in. I could have never come up with what you have.

I definitely think you will get that price down, prices I paid were for a 1 off build, some of the components come down massively with >25 volume. The only difference between this on and the Tunze is that the other has optical sensors where this has 'mechanical', Andy has built in the logic to deal with this (timed pumping of water, no hunting etc)

So keep your eye on this thread, we will both keep it updated and most excitingly will post a full report of how it works (if I dont blow my eyebrows off... :S )
 
OK then, progress:

I have so far routed out 3 PCBs.

The machine threw a minor wobbly (dodgy software on that thing sometimes) and decided to plop a couple of holes in random places on two of the PCBs. On the third, halfway through the copper rub-out process, the tool bit wore out & now needs replacing. I'll replace the bit tomorrow and set it going again. The remaining PCB looks pretty good. Unfortunately things are now set-back a day (but hey, whatever!)

Andy
 
Meh, who needs eyebrows anyway? Over-rated :lol:
:lol:


Andy said:
OK then, progress:

I have so far routed out 3 PCBs.

The machine threw a minor wobbly (dodgy software on that thing sometimes) and decided to plop a couple of holes in random places on two of the PCBs. On the third, halfway through the copper rub-out process, the tool bit wore out & now needs replacing. I'll replace the bit tomorrow and set it going again. The remaining PCB looks pretty good. Unfortunately things are now set-back a day (but hey, whatever!)

Dude, thats rough - no problem with delay (you did say Wednesday anyway??). I have the sensors here so bar the pcb holding clip things in the box, everything should be good!

I used to find that with Rye CNC's, for no good reason, the datum would shift causing the routers to cut out the vacuum jig - ass man....!!
 
I gotta say its fun, this thread but I think like you have said underwurlde its a lot of money, I have been looking at ATO's for a number of weeks as I am having to top up 2-3 ltrs every other day and I have found this, for £40 plus £10 postage,

ATO.jpg


Technical info

Model
HL-233

Power Supply
AC 110V/220V 50Hz

Environment
Temperature: 0~50℃, Humidity<95%

Power Consumption
2 watts

Dimensions
150mm×85mm×42mm

Weight
690g

The electronic level controller with 2 sensors will automate aquarium water top off. Since safety is our number one concern, we include two float switch sensors with our electronic water level controller. The first float switch sensor triggers the feed pump (sold separately) to maintain the desire water level. The second float switch sensor ensures dependability and offers overflow protection. Our water level controller can also be used to protect pump from running dry. It can be utilized in three ways :
1.In this mode the power supply will turn on if the water level in the sump is low AND there is enough water in the storage tank. The power supply will turn off if the water level in the sump is high AND there is not enough water in the storage tank.With this set up the power supply will turn on as soon as the water level in the sump drops below the set level. The power supply will turn off if the water level in the sump is high the set level.

2. The power supply will turn on when the level falls below the minimal level of float sensor1 and will turn off when water rises the set point of the flow sensor1. The float sensor2 acts as a backup sensor in the event the float sensor1 is stuck. The level controller will not allow the power supply to turn on if the water level in the sump reaches the maximum level of float sensor2.

3. Immerse the sensor1 and sensor2 in the measured solution(sump).With this set up the power supply will turn on when both sensors detected that the water level is below the minimum level and stop only when the water rises the maximum level of both sensor.



Its non branded but neither will this project one? I found it about 3 weeks ago but have been avidly following thread as it is excellent reading and info, gets your mind working again B) but its coming to crunch time.

It would save a lot of trouble to purchase a ready made unit plus hes gonna do free postage on some moonlight LED kits if I buy it together? saving an extra £10 postage ?

:D
 
I know little of these products and have not researched them myself, so I was kind of assuming that the lowest cost commercial alternative to DIY was £99. There are 3 words in assume.

Andy
 
The one in the picture above is a Aqua Digital Water Level Controller, this is selling for £79 so at £40 - thats an unreal price - where did you see that one and is it def new?

The alternative is a Tunze Osmolator which is selling at £99 (others do it for £119!?!?).

The other market offering is the SP3000 which is selling for £78.99
 
PCB is DONE. Wooooooooot 8)

Assembly procedure:

(During assembly, please note down any errors in the PCB (clashing components etc.) / general comments and let me know PLEASE!)

Power Supply
============
1.) Bolt on the mains Inlet socket CON1 & then solder it in.
2.) Pulg it into the mains, remove mits, switch on.

Gone bang? No, phew. If it does let me know.

3.) Solder in mains switch SW1, mains fuse FSE1 and transformer TRANS1. Insert 1A fuse into holder and place cap on fuse holder.
4.) Pulg it into the mains, remove mits, switch on.

Gone bang? No, phew. If it does let me know.

5.) Solder in the bridge rectifier BR1 (nothing the polarity), 1000uF capacitor C2 (make sure the polarity is CORRECT) and 100nF capacitor C1.
6.) Pulg it into the mains, remove mits, switch on.

Gone bang? No, phew. If it does let me know.
If you can, measure the voltage across 1000uF capacitor C2. Shouldn't be more than about 20V DC.
If it isn't STOP & let me know what it is!

7.) Solder in regulator IC1 (pop rivet provided), 100nF capacitor C3, 10uF C4.
8.) Pulg it into the mains, remove mits, switch on.

Gone bang? No, phew. If it does let me know.
Measure the voltage across 10uF capacitor C4 or 100nF C3. It should be pretty damn close to 12V DC.
If it isn't STOP & let me know what it is!

9) Solder in 1K resistor R1 and red LED LED1.
10) Pulg it into the mains, remove mits, switch on.

Gone bang? No, phew. If it does let me know.
The red LED should be on indicating power. If not the LED may be incorrectly inserted, so remove it, reverse it and solder it back in.
You won't damage it by putting it in the wrong way around. Copy & paste this for all LEDs

OK, with power on, check voltage supply to the ICs:
IC2: pin7 = GND, pin14 = +ve = +12V
IC4 & IC3: pin1 = GND, pin8 = +ve = +12V

If the voltages are correct for the supply pins carry on.

MonoStable
==========
Now you can confidentally solder in the other bits & bobs:
R8,7,5,6,4,2, C10,8,5, D1,2, LED3,4, CON2,4, SW2 (on extention wires if needs be), RLY1
VAR1 - use extention wires. Connect middle pin to middle pin, outer pins to outer pins.

Testing the Monostable
======================
Don't plug the pump in yet.
Wire up the float switch to screw terminal block CON4.
Turn the POT fully anti-clock wise.
Plug into mains, switch on SW1 (does SW1 work to switch it off? If not check).
Does switching SW2 to 'disable' illuminate LED4?
Switch SW2 to enable (LED4 should be off).
Play with the float switch: Does LED3 indicate correct functionality? It should come on
and STAY on for at least 1.1 secs and then after a set period of time, GO OFF!
If everything seems fine, Turn POT VAR1 fully clockwise. Does the time increase or decrease?
If the time decreases, swap the two outer wires.
Connect a pump and see if it works!
Can you set the time the pump is on from 1.1 secs to 110 secs? Indeed, is 110secs long enough?


Alarm (optional)
================
Assemble & solder in all the other parts.


Testing the Alarm
=================

Testing is a bit dangerous:
With the mains lead DISCONNECTED remove the cover of the relay if you can.

!! BE CAREFUL ONCE THE COVER IS OFF LIVE PARTS EXPOSED !!

With the unit swiched on and NO demand for topping up with SW2 in whatever position (test it for both),
use an isulated screwdriver and push the relay contacts over such that the pump comes on. Red LED2 should
now start flashing and if an alarm is connected, it should be going on & off.
Replace the cover of the mains relay once testing complete.

===============

Good luck,

Andy

[Edit]: Got C1 & C2 arse about face. Thanks Sophos...
 
Hell man, thanks for the comprehensive instructions... I'm sure my missus will want me to poke my fingers in and get fried, I'm worth more dead and she knows it!!

Thanks Andy, will get back asap...
 
Some pics of the LPKF machine 'doin' it's stuff':

Lpkf.gif


And of the panelized PCBs:

Panelized.gif


Over to you, Sophos!

Andy
 
4footbuild033.jpg


My DIY auto Top-off

240V 4lpm peri pump. £14 ebay
240V I/O float switch. £7 RS
Enclosure, wire, plug and block conector. £13 B&Q

£34 total.

I know its not a fancy but in the end there is less to go wrong.
 
Hi mate, looking good.

I originally thought about that but two things put me off, the first was putting 240v through a sensor in the tank - I know there are 240v powerheads and stuff but for some reason it gives me the creeps....

The other is having one sensor - these things fail (and I've read loads of horror stories). Some people put them on a timer to come on for 5mins once a day - for me this does away with the whole point?

That sensor cable looks like 12v? That peri pump is a dish washer pump right? Good move!!
 

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