Underwurldes - Diy Auto Top Off Project

[Underwurlde]

Transformer, Farnell part number, 4702888.

I shouldn't think this will cost more than a tenner(ish). Don't quote me.

Andy

 

[sophos9]

Transformer, Farnell part number, 4702888.

I shouldn't think this will cost more than a tenner(ish). Don't quote me.

Andy

Cool!

Saw that one but check availability - no longer manufactured!!

What about this little fella?

 

[Underwurlde]

..but you can still order them. Bloody stupid RoHs compliance.

OK, I'll use that one.

 

[sophos9]

..but you can still order them. Bloody stupid RoHs compliance.

OK, I'll use that one.

Ahhh.... my ignorance mate, sorry!!

 

[idlefingers]

Improved version:

Andy

Good luck sophos!

Makes normal drip syphons to topup look like caveman tools. When first reading this thread I thought it didn't look too hard and it might be worth a try myself but now I think I'll just wait 'till I win the lottery (it's past due) and buy one pre-made

 

[sophos9]

Thanks mate but its Andy who is the king here, he is even getting the PCB made so for me its just plug and play - should give teh same functions as the Tunz but without the optical sensors (upgrade??)

Will keep the thread updated with cost etc!

 

[SkiFletch]

Wow, I wish I had the mind for circuit design like this. I understand the testing of the circuit, but for some reason can never really design circuits like this. You sound just like one of our two EE's at work Andy, design is just second nature to you guys . Mind if I follow this and make something similar on my side of the pond?

 

[Underwurlde]

@SkiFletch - fill ya boots mate! This design is 'for the community'.

Optical sensors? What are they used for? Are they used instead of a float switch?

Note: I have never seen one of these top-off thingy-ma-jigs....

Andy

 

[sophos9]

Andy, its a great contribution!!

Optical sensors do not use moving parts and are a bit more clever in their reading (the timed logic that you designed into the circuit)

 

[Underwurlde]

Here is the BOM for the schematic (which I have up dated)

Copy the stuff below the line into a text file and save it as BOM.txt
rename it to BOM.csv
Load it into excel, space out the columns and save as normal xls file:
----------------------------
Designator,Description,Mfr,Farnell #,MOQ,Cost,Mfr Part #,Tot
FSE1,"Fuse Holder. 250V, 10A 20mm",Schurter,1162740,1,0.186,31.8201,0.186
R6,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,10,0.023,MF12-1K0,0.23
R4,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
R1,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
R7,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
R5,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
R3,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
R2,"Resistor, 1K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342400,,0.023,MF12-1K0,
VAR1,1M Linear POT,Tyco,350138,1,0.73,23-ESA-105-MMF-50NF,0.73
R9,"Resistor, 2K2 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342834,10,0.023,MF12-2K2,0.23
R10,"Resistor, 2K2 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342834,,0.023,MF12-2K2,
R8,"Resistor, 10K 125mW 1%",MultiComp,9342419,10,0.023,MF12-10K,0.23
C8,"Capacitor, 10nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189287,5,0.116,BH014D0103K,0.58
C9,"Capacitor, 10nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189287,,0.116,BH014D0103K,
C4,Capacitor Electrolytic 10uF 16V,Rubycon,1281813,1,0.12,25ZLG10M4X7,0.12
IC2,IC 74HC02 Quad 2-Input NOR Gate,Fairchild,1013911,1,0.183,MM74HC02N,0.183
C7,"Capacitor, 100nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189289,5,0.127,BH014D0104K,0.635
C1,"Capacitor, 100nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189289,,0.127,BH014D0104K,
C3,"Capacitor, 100nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189289,,0.127,BH014D0104K,
C5,"Capacitor, 100nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189289,,0.127,BH014D0104K,
C6,"Capacitor, 100nF 63V 5%",AVX,1189289,,0.127,BH014D0104K,
C11,Capacitor Electrolytic 100uF 25V,Rubycon,1144697,1,0.17,25ZL100M6.3X11,0.17
C10,Capacitor Electrolytic 100uF 25V,Rubycon,1144697,1,0.17,25ZL100M6.3X11,0.17
C2,Capacitor Electrolytic 1000uF 35V,Rubycon,1144703,1,0.58,25ZL1000M12.5X20,0.58
IC1,Linear Regulator 12V 1A 2%,ST,1087090,1,0.46,L7812ABV,0.46
CON3,2 Way Terminal Block,Tyco,1098612,1,0.4,1776491-2,0.4
LED4,"LED, Green.",Avago,1003214,5,0.082,HLMP-3507,0.41
SW2,"Switch, SPDT.",MultiComp,9473378,1,0.68,1MS1T1B5M1QE,0.68
LED2,"LED, Red.",Avago,1003211,5,0.164,HLMP-3301,0.82
CON4,2 Way Terminal Block,Tyco,1098612,1,0.4,1776491-2,0.4
D2,Diode IN4148,Fairchild,9843680,5,0.012,1N4148,0.06
D1,Diode IN4148,Fairchild,9843680,,0.012,1N4148,
CON1,"Main Inlet, IEC PCB Mount. 250V 10A",Bulgin,313853,1,0.97,PX0580/PC,0.97
IC4,NE555 Timer.,TI,9589899,1,0.27,NE555P,0.27
IC3,NE555 Timer.,TI,9589899,1,0.27,NE555P,0.27
SW1,"Mains Switch, SPST",Schurter,1162728,1,0.43,1301.9205,0.43
LED1,"LED, Red.",Avago,1003211,,0.164,HLMP-3301,
CON2,"Main Inlet, IEC PCB Mount. 250V 10A",Bulgin,313853,1,0.97,PX0580/PC,0.97
BR1,Bridge Rectifier. 1A 600V,MultiComp,4077300,1,0.167,1W06,0.167
RLY1,"Relay, 12DC, 300R 8A 240V DPCO",Omron,9950176,1,2.89,G2RL-2,2.89
LED3,"LED, Amber.",Avago,1003212,5,0.134,HLMP-D401,0.67
TRANS1,"Transformer. 240VAC, 2x15VAC 5VA",ClairTronic,1156109,1,3.48,14123,3.48
,,,,,,TOTAL COST,17.391

 

[Underwurlde]

And here is updated Schematic:

So, you may well be asking, 'great... where's the PCB???'.

Before I can even start on the PCB, I have to do a lot of ground work first: For every single componet I had to:
Get a farnell # (Done), cost & MOQ (Done), draw a schematic symbol (Done), and ACAD up a foot print drawing (TBD).
(The orignal schematic was a bit of a 'cheat', it was *just* a drawing with nothing behind it if you like).

So all the info is now in the schematic & click of a button now produces the BOM i've list above. As you can see that does not include a box for everything to live in and a knob for the POT. Totals about £17, plus these extra bits = about 20 quid (damn my eyes, I was a factor of 2 out! - that's Farnell prices for you)

So what to do now:

ACAD the footprints - 90%
import them into Protel as a PCB footprint - easy job
ACAD the outline for the PCB based on the choice of box - done.
Import board outline into Protel - 2 sec job
Do the PCB - a breeze once all that is in there.

Another day or so should see it done.

Andy

 

[pengy666]

So can I use this to make my own or would you rather I didnt? I got a small qualifications in electronics and after concentrating on it I reckon I could tackle it? My soldering is absolutly excellent and I got some good soldering kit?

would you mind someone in UK having a go?

 

[Underwurlde]

Up to you!

It is not tried. It is not tested. It uses mains, so be warned.

It is a 'UK' design if you like, as I live in the.... UK!

If I were you, I'd wait for the tried & tested stage to pass first!

Andy

PS
I've just imported the outline for the interior of the box I had found into PCB. The mains sockets and the Transformers fit in the box... barely! Better choose a bigger box I guess! Engineering for you....

 

[pengy666]

Of course I planned for that!

LOL

The PCB can be anything right?

Like this? Crude but can do the job? Or would a hobby PCB kit be useful I have done PCB etching (long time ago) I made for a project a timer extension system to turn lights on in a house while you was on holiday! Over 18 years ago tho

 

[Underwurlde]

^ That stuff is used for point to point wiring & wire wrapping. You can use it, better off using strip board & strip board cutter though.
See
www.maplins.com
www.farnell.com
or
www.rswww.com
Andy

[Edit]
This stuffhttp/uk.farnell.com/jsp/Semiconductor+Ac...jsp?sku=1201473
Like everything else, they manage to charge a fortune for it.