Nitrites n plants

[Fishfunn]

So how do I use salt to get rid of nitrates ? And what kind of salt should I use ?

Fed up with nitrates in my well water

My well water has a steady state nitrate level of approximately 30 ppm. When I do a water exchange I dilute my well water with nitrate-free spring water that has a similar GH. But this getting old. And soon with the addition of a new 60 gallon tank the volume of my weekly water exchanges will...

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[Essjay]

To be clear - are you talking about nitrites or nitrates? So far you've said

I tested nitrites n nitrates. Nitrites were zero but Nitrites was 0.5.

Correction: nitrates were 0.5

First you said nitrite was both zero and 0.5 ppm, then you said nitrate was 0.5 ppm. However, nitrate testers don't read as low as 0.5 ppm, they usually have 5 ppm as the next level above zero, while nitrite tester levels are 0.25, 0.5, 1.0. 2.0 ppm and so on.


The nitrogen cycle is ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate. Both ammonia and nitrite are toxic; nitrate is only toxic at higher levels with 20 ppm now being recognised as the highest it should be in an aquarium.

We need to be very clear if we are talking about nitrite with an 'i' or nitrate with an 'a'.

 

[Tyler777]

To be clear - are you talking about nitrites or nitrates? So far you've said



First you said nitrite was both zero and 0.5 ppm, then you said nitrate was 0.5 ppm. However, nitrate testers don't read as low as 0.5 ppm, they usually have 5 ppm as the next level above zero, while nitrite tester levels are 0.25, 0.5, 1.0. 2.0 ppm and so on.


The nitrogen cycle is ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate. Both ammonia and nitrite are toxic; nitrate is only toxic at higher levels with 20 ppm now being recognised as the highest it should be in an aquarium.

We need to be very clear if we are talking about nitrite with an 'i' or nitrate with an 'a'.

Ok my bad , nitrates are 5.0 then not 0.5.

 

[Essjay]

Nitrate is perfectly OK at that level; it should be kept below 20 ppm and 5 ppm is way less than that. You do not need need to do anything if you really do mean nitrate.

However nitrite is toxic at very low levels. If you ever have nitrite in the tank water you need to do something about it.


I'm getting a bit confused as the thread title says nitrite and now you are talking about nitrate?

 

[Tyler777]

Nitrate is perfectly OK at that level; it should be kept below 20 ppm and 5 ppm is way less than that. You do not need need to do anything if you really do mean nitrate.

However nitrite is toxic at very low levels. If you ever have nitrite in the tank water you need to do something about it.


I'm getting a bit confused as the thread title says nitrite and now you are talking about nitrate?

Yeah I know I made a mistake with the original post talking bout nitrites n nitrates but my phone wrote nitrites both times.
Nitrates is what I got still 5.0 I thought it was 0.5 . I got totally confused myself.
I'm ba

Nitrate is perfectly OK at that level; it should be kept below 20 ppm and 5 ppm is way less than that. You do not need need to do anything if you really do mean nitrate.

However nitrite is toxic at very low levels. If you ever have nitrite in the tank water you need to do something about it.


I'm getting a bit confused as the thread title says nitrite and now you are talking about nitrate?

Nitrate is perfectly OK at that level; it should be kept below 20 ppm and 5 ppm is way less than that. You do not need need to do anything if you really do mean nitrate.

However nitrite is toxic at very low levels. If you ever have nitrite in the tank water you need to do something about it.


I'm getting a bit confused as the thread title says nitrite and now you are talking about nitrate?

I use these ammonia and PH readers yesterday the circle inbthe middle was more yellow which is safer today is turning a little more grayish which means some kind of alarm. We did an almostv95% water change on Saturday n today seems like water parameters aren't the greatest. Should I do another water change ?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Any salt will do for nitrite. The directions are in the rescue article here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/rescuing-a-fish-in-cycle-gone-wild-part-il.433778/

I have used table salt w/o iodine, but iodine and andti-caking agenst in salt is in such low amounts it should not matter. The amount of salt needed to counteract nitrite is not very much at all, It is the chloride in the salt that helps. Once the nitrite thrreat has pssed do a big water changes to remove any part of the salt left in the tank. Usually this is sodium as much of the chloride has been used to protect the fish.

 

[Tyler777]

Well I came back from work yesterday n found 4 of my Koi betta females dead. That as u can imagine really upset me big time on Monday I lost another one.
I checked the water parameters n there was a little ammonia but not too crazy no nitrites ph was 7.6 but freaking Nitrates were back at high levels.
I don't know what else to do to get rid of nitrates . I did an almost 95% water change on Sunday n cleaned the whole tank, got rid of all the garden dirt/ sand mix.
Washed all the plants n rinsed em out bfore I put em back into the tank.
But still nitrates showed up again n killed my girls.
I did a 25% water change last nite.
I just don't know what else to do anymore. I would appreciate any advice bout how to get rid n prevent nitrates in my tank

 

[Essjay]

How high was nitrate? Although it is recommended to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, levels of over 100 ppm won't kill fish quickly. Nitrate is a slow killer.

Ammonia and nitrite are the fast killers. Can you give us numbers for these two, please.

 

[Fishfunn]

Thank you, I will

Prime temporarily detoxifies ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates for only 48 hours, then releases them back into the water. So your filter will need to remove the toxins or have to do water changes.

What kind of filter do you have?

 

[Tyler777]

How high was nitrate? Although it is recommended to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, levels of over 100 ppm won't kill fish quickly. Nitrate is a slow killer.

Ammonia and nitrite are the fast killers. Can you give us numbers for these two, please.

I can't remember the numbers but it was bad like right in middle of the color list. Way more than 20.
Ammonia was I think it was like 2.5 it wasn't a lot but it was something

 

[MaloK]

I agree that Nitrate is a lot less toxic.

But still my betta always show sign of discomfort past 20 ppm. The first symptom is a still relaxed but more labored gills movement.

2.5 ppm ammonia is dangerously high for an aquarium and will kill your fish.

 

[Fishfunn]

I agree that Nitrate is a lot less toxic.

But still my betta always show sign of discomfort past 20 ppm. The first symptom is a still relaxed but more labored gills movement.

2.5 ppm ammonia is dangerously high for an aquarium and will kill your fish.

Is @Tyler777 filter properly cycled?

 

[Tyler777]

I agree that Nitrate is a lot less toxic.

But still my betta always show sign of discomfort past 20 ppm. The first symptom is a still relaxed but more labored gills movement.

2.5 ppm ammonia is dangerously high for an aquarium and will kill your fish.

I know I did a 25 % water change yesterday hopefully will help

Is @Tyler777 filter properly cycled?

Yes it is

 

[Uberhoust]

Been following this for a bit. 2.5 ppm ammonia is more an indicator that the tank is not cycled, with new substrate and cleaned plants it is possible that the tank was cycled but now it is not.

I suspect things went poorly after the introduction of the soil, but then never got a chance to re-establish after this event and the subsequent changes. The bacteria grow on surfaces, not just on the filter, and most of the surfaces would have been disturbed. I also believe that most of the smaller filters really don't have enough volume to provide enough bacteria to solely depend on the filter to oxidize ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate.

If you still have fish I would do large water changes any time the ammonia gets measurable, at least 50% change and if the ammonia is greater than 0.5ppm I would change closer to 75%. This might mean daily water changes for a short time. I would feed the fish lightly and make sure I don't add anything that adds more nitrogen to the tank, ie fertilizers. I have to do this whenever I establish a grow out tank for fish fry. Keep in mind this method is only appropriate if your source water is good, if you are on a well it is possible that you have some elevated levels to start with.

Your plants can help a lot here, if you have enough light to encourage growth. They can intercept the ammonia before it gets used by the bacteria, but they need to be growing to help with this and it sounds like they have been disturbed, but if you leave them for a bit they will re-establish. I prefer to start a tank with lots plants, rather than use the fishless cycle method, seems simpler and has worked for me many times.

From all I have read, I believe you have to treat your tank as if it is a new tank now. I wish you the best of luck.

 

[Naughts]

Tyler, to avoid vague test results and get the right help, can you post a photo of your tests with the corresponding chart please?