My Cycle Diary

You know, to tell the truth, I don't know. The fact that pH 7 to 8.4 as a range is good, is well established and supported by the cases we see here in the beginner forum. The 8.0 to 8.4 optimal is drawn from Tim Hovanec, whose published papers actually involved doing real science on these bacterial species... but whether one could detect 8 to 8.4 actually being faster than 7.4 or something is debatable. It might indeed be that if you had a lab full of controlled tanks you could pull it out of the statistics pretty easily but in the noise of everything else going on in a home situation its probably doubtful.

Going on the theory that there's nothing at all wrong with dumping bicarbonate in a fishless cycling tank where most of it will go out at the big water change, there should be nothing wrong with trying. In fact, when I did this very thing during my fishless cycle, I tried pretty hard here on TFF to find anyone who could tell me anything negative about using bicarb just during the fishless cycle and didn't come up with any negative comments.

But that's not to say there couldn't be something a little negative. In hindsight, I realize that the Na (sodium) part of Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) could be left behind, and salt is not something we want in freshwater tanks, even with mollies usually. Now, truth is, I don't know what would likely happen to the salt.

My mental picture is that you add the sodium bicarbonate... its soluble at room temp/pressure, so the Na and the HCO3-minus dissassociate and the bicarbonate anion goes on to be available to associate with various protons (H+) that are in abundance from both steps of the nitrification process (thus playing its buffering role.) Then you've got some Na+ ions (the sodium) floating around and I don't know whether it would tend to stick with the substrate (this could vary highly with the type of substrate of course) or would mostly go out with the big water change at the end of fishless cycling! (hey, maybe OM47 will come along with an opinion!)

Sorry to go all sciency on you. The short answer is that your pH is probably fine just as is but since you were talking about playing around it got me going...

~~waterdrop~~
 
Bloomin eck, as they say in some parts of Yorkshire.

Cheers for the info, I had to do a bit of surfing to understand it, plus after reading it I think I will keep it at tap levels of 7.5

;)

Bump by the way for day 10 above.
 
:lol: Those are the moments that keep me coming back, when I get to hear something like "Bloomin Eck"... UKers are more fun!
 
Well I lost my double zero but I think it is still going ok!

Starting to decide on fish now - good few weeks to go..........Yet
 
Without looking carefully, it doesn't look to me like your pH has shown any signs of dropping off, so, with the assumption that you are not in danger of a pH crash, I'd say just leave it alone.

If you eventually -do- decide to do a water change then its best to understand that a "percentage" water change has no meaning without fish. People do less than a full water change just because they are trying to protect fish from shock. Bacteria have no such sensitivity, so during a fishless cycle its always better to just change the maximum amount convenient to you, which should hopefully be about 90%.. down on top of the gravel or perhaps as far down as you can go without breaking the siphon on your filter intake tube. Of course you still want to condition and roughly temperature match to hopefully minimize any disturbance to your bacteria, but unfortunately any water change will often cause a day or two pause before its "kickstart" effect "helps" the cycle. Don't get me wrong, the kickstart effect can be very real and can be a good thing to do if -both- ammonia and nitrite seem unusually stalled, or of course if you've had a pH crash.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Hi, cheers for that - a little more info soaked in now.

I was wondering if a high Nitrate content would slow things down - or if I only needed to a change if I had a PH crash?

Paul.
 
Well, yes, high nitrate(NO3) is known to slow the bacterial development somewhat but 80ppm might not realy be in to the range that would be considered very high. Doing a water change also slows the bacteria down for a bit. Its really into an area where we're all just guessing and its not clear that anyone's ever taken the time to do much comparison so its unlikely anyone could say what the fastest path would be for your tank. You could go either way. rabbut, for instance, has done some fishless cycles and often states that he feels just leaving it alone will be the fastest path. On the other hand BTT and I and others, rabbut included probably, have all had cases where a water change served, or at least seemed to serve, as a kickstart to make things move faster again. Except in terms of a day or two, there's hardly ever a case where a large water change would hurt anything if you're anxious to get your hands in there and do something. Always make it as large as you can, with conditioner perhaps at 1.5 times recoommended dose and rough temperature matching and don't forget to recharge with the correct ppm of ammonia. Always do a gravel clean (even on a fishless cycling tank!) when you do a water change.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Birthday bump, yes it mine today on Paddy's day - we he hey.

Not much in the way of movement in the old Nitrite stiiiillllllllllllll..........

I'm off to bed... .. .
 
I was thinking about dying the Ammo yellow and the Nitrite Blue - just to confuse the little bu66ers, either that or I might try giving them a drink of Guinness!

Pretty static today again, I know there are Nitrite bacs in there otherwise it would be off the scale, but as with most threads the are bloomin slow to grow! :S

Paul.
 
"but as with most threads the are bloomin slow to grow!"

:lol: I was thinking the other day, suppose put this much attention into... "Hey folks, I'm watching my new swordplant leaf unfurl and I think I'm measured another half-millimeter of growth! Any day now!"

(there being probably not all that terribly much difference between leaf cells and bacterial cells in the big picture...)

~~waterdrop~~
 
Well I have missed posting this for two days, but .25 and .0 for Nitrite at 24hour mark, hopefully it will stablise and the hours will shrink 0 in 24, 0 in 23 etc. 0 in 12 hours next week I wish!

Paul.
 

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