Help Reading This Ph And Loss Of Fish After Water Changes

[Essjay]

Flourish Excel is marketed as

Bioavailable organic carbon source for the planted aquarium

 
It is used instead of CO2 in planted tanks. The data sheet doesn't say what's in it as it's a trade secret but it is reputed to contain glutaraldehyde.
 
 
 
Flourish Comprehensive, labelled as "Flourish, comprehensive supplement for the planted aquarium", is the one that contains the trace minerals needed for plant growth. It is this one that StevenF suggested in post #6

 

[thrujenseyes]

Flourish Excel is marketed as

Bioavailable organic carbon source for the planted aquarium

 
It is used instead of CO2 in planted tanks. The data sheet doesn't say what's in it as it's a trade secret but it is reputed to contain glutaraldehyde.
 
 
 
Flourish Comprehensive, labelled as "Flourish, comprehensive supplement for the planted aquarium", is the one that contains the trace minerals needed for plant growth. It is this one that StevenF suggested in post #6

Excellent! I couldn't find ingredients so I appreciate the response!

 

[thrujenseyes]

Flourish Excel is marketed as

Bioavailable organic carbon source for the planted aquarium

 
It is used instead of CO2 in planted tanks. The data sheet doesn't say what's in it as it's a trade secret but it is reputed to contain glutaraldehyde.
 
 
 
Flourish Comprehensive, labelled as "Flourish, comprehensive supplement for the planted aquarium", is the one that contains the trace minerals needed for plant growth. It is this one that StevenF suggested in post #6

I found this review on amazon about excel and wonder if this could have been my issue all along.
 
I know I have water issues that are being tend to but the way they describe their fish deaths are very similar to mine...and I was using excel and prime together.
 
Interesting information so I thought I'd share:
 
"I don't doubt the positive reviews of many Fluorish Excel users. However, we had a tragic experience with it killing 5 Electric Blue Ahli cichlids and nearly killing 6 others. My tanks are stable and very well-cared for, and all of my water parameters were ideal after doing my weekly vacuuming and 75% water change several hours earlier (pH 7.8, kH 120, GH 200, nitrate 10 mg/L, and undetectable ammonia or nitrite). We used Excel exactly as directed, and even slowly poured it into the stream of water coming out of our filter to disperse it gradually. Within 20 minutes, 11 fish were lying on their sides on the bottom struggling to breathe and occasionally darting to the top to gulp air. We immediately moved them to another tank with the same water, but still lost 5 of them. After searching the web, I found many other instances of similar tragedies with other types of fish. It also seems to be highly toxic to certain plants, including anacharis and valisneria. Interestingly, many other fish in the tank seemed OK, including yellow labs, Ciprochromis Leptosoma Tricolor, and bushy nose plecos.

After writing Seachem a very detailed description of my experience, they explained to me that the gluteraldehyde-based compounds in Flourish Excel are chemical reducing agents, and if you just did a major water change, removing most of the organic waste in the tank, than there are few soluble compounds for the Excel to act on and it can chemically reduce oxygen, making it unavailable for the fish to breathe. However, given the enormous differences in sensitivity of the Ahlis compared to my other fish, I have to wonder if certain species experience direct toxicity to their gills from the Fluorish. Seachem also said this problem can be exacerbated by the simultaneous use of Seachem's Prime water conditioner, which is also a reducing agent (yes, I used this earlier in the day when I cleaned my tank, but why didn't they mention this on the label?). Lastly, they said if you add Excel to the tank in the evening, the plants won't utilize it as quickly as in the morning, leaving more of it in the water for the fish to deal with. None of this was explained anywhere on the product label or on their website. I understand that many products on the market can be dangerous if used inappropriately. But if Seachem knows many of the potential problems with Excel and yet chooses not to convey any of it to potential buyers, than they are preventing aquarists from making mindful decisions that affect their fish and plants. Seachem's response to this was that they will consider putting this info on their FAQ part of their website. This is unacceptable to me. While I have loved so many Seachem products over the years, I feel we are looking at corporate irresponsibility when it comes to Flourish Excel. How the company chooses to handle the situation will tell us lots about whether they are willing to risk reducing sales and profits in order to educate consumers and prevent unnecessary fish and plant loss."

 

[Byron]

I have frequently advised against using Excel or any similar product (API CO2 Booster is the same stuff chemically), and what you have found is further reason why.  I'm not saying this killed your fish, but Excel and Prime are two more chemical mixtures entering the tank, and one has to be careful.  I will take the time to explain a couple things as you (Jen) have been willing to listen to what members have offered, and you are relatively new to the hobby.  There is indeed much to learn, and this learning never stops.
 
First point has to do with how fish relate to their environment.  This is quite unlike that of any land animal, because of their aquatic environment.  Fish do not "drink" because water is continually entering their bodies.  Water passes through every cell via osmosis, and all substances dissolved in the water thus enter the fish's bloodstream and internal organs; in addition, processes in the gills cause substances in the water passing through to be directly taken into the bloodstream.  So with this in mind, we must recognise that every substance we add to the aquarium water is going to end up inside the fish.  This is one reason why I frequently advise less rather than more, in terms of substances themselves and the number of substances.
 
That brings us to Excel and similar products.  The ingredients in Excel are water and glutaraldehyde.  Now, at this point I should mention that while Seachem's data information sheet on this product used to include glutaraldehyde, this has now been removed and they refuse to list the active ingredient(s) "for trade secrets."  I find this very bothersome, that a manufacturer of products intended to be used in and on living creatures refuses to disclose exactly what is in the product.  [I wasn't aware they had recently done this, and I intend to contact them later.]  But we can assume the ingredients are as previous in the absence of any conflicting data.
 
Glutaraldehyde is a disinfectant used in hospitals to sterilise instruments, in ship's ballasts to kill bacteria when traversing from one ocean to another, in embalming fluid, and in anti-freeze.  It is highly toxic.  The cautions on Seachem's site itself make this clear.  It is often recommended to kill brush algae, and it usually does.  It will kill some plants, such as Vallisneria, Anacharis, and I believe some mosses.  Seachem claim this is not always the case, but there are documented cases.  If this product should be overdosed, it has the capability of killing bacteria, plants and fish. Seachem may say "when used as directed, Flourish Excel is completely safe for fish," but I am not so easily fooled.  Knowing how this is entering the fish naturally as I explained above, and knowing its toxic state, I can't understand any aquarist accepting it as "completely safe."
 
Byron.

 

[thrujenseyes]

I have frequently advised against using Excel or any similar product (API CO2 Booster is the same stuff chemically), and what you have found is further reason why.  I'm not saying this killed your fish, but Excel and Prime are two more chemical mixtures entering the tank, and one has to be careful.  I will take the time to explain a couple things as you (Jen) have been willing to listen to what members have offered, and you are relatively new to the hobby.  There is indeed much to learn, and this learning never stops.
 
First point has to do with how fish relate to their environment.  This is quite unlike that of any land animal, because of their aquatic environment.  Fish do not "drink" because water is continually entering their bodies.  Water passes through every cell via osmosis, and all substances dissolved in the water thus enter the fish's bloodstream and internal organs; in addition, processes in the gills cause substances in the water passing through to be directly taken into the bloodstream.  So with this in mind, we must recognise that every substance we add to the aquarium water is going to end up inside the fish.  This is one reason why I frequently advise less rather than more, in terms of substances themselves and the number of substances.
 
That brings us to Excel and similar products.  The ingredients in Excel are water and glutaraldehyde.  Now, at this point I should mention that while Seachem's data information sheet on this product used to include glutaraldehyde, this has now been removed and they refuse to list the active ingredient(s) "for trade secrets."  I find this very bothersome, that a manufacturer of products intended to be used in and on living creatures refuses to disclose exactly what is in the product.  [I wasn't aware they had recently done this, and I intend to contact them later.]  But we can assume the ingredients are as previous in the absence of any conflicting data.
 
Glutaraldehyde is a disinfectant used in hospitals to sterilise instruments, in ship's ballasts to kill bacteria when traversing from one ocean to another, in embalming fluid, and in anti-freeze.  It is highly toxic.  The cautions on Seachem's site itself make this clear.  It is often recommended to kill brush algae, and it usually does.  It will kill some plants, such as Vallisneria, Anacharis, and I believe some mosses.  Seachem claim this is not always the case, but there are documented cases.  If this product should be overdosed, it has the capability of killing bacteria, plants and fish. Seachem may say "when used as directed, Flourish Excel is completely safe for fish," but I am not so easily fooled.  Knowing how this is entering the fish naturally as I explained above, and knowing its toxic state, I can't understand any aquarist accepting it as "completely safe."
 
Byron.

 
Oh goodness....
 
Boy I feel more and more like a total fish failure as the minutes tick by.  
 
I completely hear what you're saying about the fish taking in everything in their water.  It's the same with us, as humans...being cautious of what we put into and on our bodies.  
And I'm one of them.  We are that annoying couple that shops in those "tree hugger/granola type" stores and read every ingredient on the labels..for us and our dogs!!  
I have no reasonable explanation as to why I did not follow suit with my fish?!?  
 
But from now on I will try to be as natural as I can once I get everything in working order.  
 
As for the Excel...
It DID kill all my anacharis plants (which I just thought had died off for whatever reason).  I did get another plant that is very similar looking which I can't remember the name and it has gone absolutely bonkers and I have to trim it every two weeks or more.  My anubias and cardinal plants have also gone bananas in a good way.  
I suppose I thought that since they were flourishing ...how could my little eco system be in bad shape?!  Oh boy.
 
My first clue that it was toxic should have been that it killed my black beard algae (that apparently nothing "safe" can kill).  
That was not the reason I purchased it...I was just told that my plants would thrive from it.....so I added and the algae dying was a super cool bonus.
 
As always I truly appreciate and am taking this all in and taking notes.  

 

[StevenF]

 
 
We used Excel exactly as directed, and even slowly poured it into the stream of water coming out of our filter to disperse it gradually. Within 20 minutes, 11 fish were lying on their sides on the bottom struggling to breathe and occasionally darting to the top to gulp air. We immediately moved them to another tank with the same water, but still lost 5 of them

The proper excel dose is very small.  If I recall correctly it is 5ml per 40 gallon.  There is almost nothing to "slowly poured int he stream of water".  This guy seriously overdosed his tank.  I just started using the stuff and have not had any fish deaths associated with it  or gasping fish. I also have a small tank.  For small tank owners it is a good idea to get a good quality syringe so that you can accurately measure fertilizers, medicines or other water treatments. There are a few plants that are sensitive to it including Anacharis.  But most are not.  If it was excel causing the fish deaths it would occur at random times.  Not just after a water change.  The web has a way of amplifying the few problems a few people have. Most people that are using excel successfully with no fish deaths don't bother posting their good experience on the web.  

 

[thrujenseyes]

 

 
 
We used Excel exactly as directed, and even slowly poured it into the stream of water coming out of our filter to disperse it gradually. Within 20 minutes, 11 fish were lying on their sides on the bottom struggling to breathe and occasionally darting to the top to gulp air. We immediately moved them to another tank with the same water, but still lost 5 of them

The proper excel dose is very small.  If I recall correctly it is 5ml per 40 gallon.  There is almost nothing to "slowly poured int he stream of water".  This guy seriously overdosed his tank.  I just started using the stuff and have not had any fish deaths associated with it  or gasping fish. I also have a small tank.  For small tank owners it is a good idea to get a good quality syringe so that you can accurately measure fertilizers, medicines or other water treatments. There are a few plants that are sensitive to it including Anacharis.  But most are not.  If it was excel causing the fish deaths it would occur at random times.  Not just after a water change.  The web has a way of amplifying the few problems a few people have. Most people that are using excel successfully with no fish deaths don't bother posting their good experience on the web.  
 

I get that also and the dose that I use is so minuscule that it almost seems absurd (like could it even be doing anything at all).  
 
I use .1ml per gallon and am usually only dosing .1 to .3 during water changes since my tank is only 6 gallons.  
I did however have a crappy plastic syringe from cvs for dosing meds but just got myself an actual syringe from my vet.  I'm sure my dosing wasn't perfectly accurate before.
 
I do believe I have a number of variables up in the air and have a few fixes that need to be made.  More and more things are coming to light and I just figure I'd share my finds so everyone has all of the information.
 
Excel must be pretty potent though if it can wipe out black beard algae...no?
 
And to be fair, it has amazing reviews on Amazon....hundreds actually.  There are very very few negative.
 
For a popular product I find it shady that they won't list the ingredients and that they failed to mention the things like "using with prime can be an issue" and "dosing at nighttime" and such...
these were all things I did.  
People like me that are chemistry and math challenged need these things spelled out for them.  The more information the better...especially when you're dealing with a little eco system that can become a royal mess.

 

[Byron]

Fish don't need to actually die to be harmed by chemicals.  And no one here can prove their fish are not affected in some way by Excel.  This approach is like a person who decides to smoke because it is safe for some people; some day it will likely catch you up, and it is not pleasant.  It's your life, and your fish.
 
Edit.  Something occurred to me as I was thinking about this, and I may be able to put this in a more understandable form.  
 
I have been dealing with cancer for nine years now.  Without going into details, it is not a cancer that is likely to kill me, unless I ignored it, and it is currently in remission, though it has done this a couple times previously and come back.  But for the present it is in remission and there is no reason why I should not have a relatively normal lifespan (I'm in my mid-60's now).  But something has been very evident over the past four years, and that is the significant impact this has made on my general well-being.  There is no doubt at all but that I have been weakened by this, physically and mentally, from both the cancer itself and the very unpleasant treatments.  My life today is a fraction of what it was nine years ago.  I am still alive, but I no not have the physical energy nor the enthusiasm that I did previously.  Anyone seeing me would never realise this, as I appear much the same as I was before this occurred.  But it has taken a serious toll on my life.
 
There is no logical reason to assume anything different with fish.  Nitrates are believed by many to be "harmless," but reliable sources know we are very wrong in thinking this.  And the most obvious effect is a general weakening of the fish.  Life may go on, externally unchanged to us, but the fish has had a serious issue affect it.  There is no logical reason why dumping needless chemicals, and especially those that are so obviously dangerously toxic, into the fish's environment knowing it will get inside the fish.  A more lush plant is not worth the risk to the fish.
 
Byron.

 

[thrujenseyes]

Fish don't need to actually die to be harmed by chemicals.  And no one here can prove their fish are not affected in some way by Excel.  This approach is like a person who decides to smoke because it is safe for some people; some day it will likely catch you up, and it is not pleasant.  It's your life, and your fish.

I completely agree with that way of thinking and will do my best to keep as close to natural as I can once I get my water figured out!

 

[thrujenseyes]

I tested my tank water this am because I'm trying to decipher how many days until I need to water change.
 
I had done about a 30% last Saturday (5 days ago) and added the RO from my LFS because I'd been so worried about my tap (which has been oddly fluctuating between 6.0 and 7.6).
 
Tank today at 9:45am:
 
ph: 6.4 (still too low for my endlers which seem awesome and my snail which seems sad...hanging by top)
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 5.0
 
What do I base the need for a water change...ammonia?  I know I have a tiny nitate reading but I also know it's not terrible.
 
Also..I added a small sea shell (found in our ocean about a year ago has been outside since and I boiled to death days ago).  It's about the size of a cherry tomato.  
If my PH comes up ...do I remove it?  Will it keep raising?  Keep in mind my tank is super small, 6 gallon.
 
Thanks guys!
 
**I tried to delete this because I just posted another question and this is a repeat but I couldn't find a "delete" button.  Sorry**

 

[thrujenseyes]

 
I I started this hobby using test strips.  Later when I joined this forum I read of people saying they were inaccurate.  So I started comparing the results with solutions of known concentrations and other test methods.  I found the tetra 6 in 1test strips are accurate if used correctly.
 
However for the ammonia test strips I recently purchased them for a project that didn't involve fish.  I found they were much harder to read and you had to read them immediately after exposure to water.  If you didn't they would give you a false positive.  That is likely what happened at the store and explains the discrepancy with your test results.
 

I was just researching test strips since I'm doing so many testings lately and will continue since my water has been such a mess.  It would be much easier to use strips instead of the API freshwater kit that I currently use.  Plus I'm down to three test tubes and it's a real pain.
 
Anyway I remembered you saying the tetra 6 in 1 were good and accurate.  I noticed they do not have ammonia on the strip.  Is it hard to find a strip that has the others plus ammonia...or are they not accurate?
 
Or should I just stick with the API and get myself some more test tubes (which it seems you can only buy in a pack of 24?!?).
 
*********************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************
 
I tested my tank water this am because I'm trying to decipher how many days until I need to water change.
 
I had done about a 30% last Saturday (5 days ago) and added the RO from my LFS because I'd been so worried about my tap (which has been oddly fluctuating between 6.0 and 7.6).
 
Tank today at 9:45am:
 
ph: 6.4 (still too low for my endlers which seem awesome and my snail which seems sad...hanging by top)
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 5.0
 
What do I base the need for a water change...ammonia?  I know I have a tiny nitate reading but I also know it's not terrible.
 
Also..I added a small sea shell (found in our ocean about a year ago has been outside since and I boiled to death days ago).  It's about the size of a cherry tomato.  
If my PH comes up ...do I remove it?  Will it keep raising?  Keep in mind my tank is super small, 6 gallon.
 
Thanks guys!

 

[StevenF]

 
 
What do I base the need for a water change...ammonia?  I know I have a tiny nitate reading but I also know it's not terrible.

If you have an aquarium full of soft water and didn't do any water changes it will eventually turn into very hard water or even brackish water.  The primare reason to do a water change in an established tank is to keep the water hardness stable.  If however a test or you suspect there is something toxic in the water (such as ammonia), you definitly do need to do a water change.   For my established tank it has gone gone two weeks without a water change without any problems  So for me if my automatic fish feeder is working correctly a 2 week vacation  is not an issue.  But once I get back I need to do a larger water cycle or more frequent water cycles to get it back to normal water hardness.
 

 
 
If my PH comes up ...do I remove it?  Will it keep raising?  Keep in mind my tank is super small, 6 gallon.

Leave it in there Once the PH stabilizes it won't go up any more due to the shell.  The shells dissolve in acidic water but do not dissolve in basic water. So the shell will only have any effect if the PH is is above 7.  Since you just started using it, it may take some time for the tank to go up to 7.  Adding more shells or putting a couple in the filter would probably cause the tank to stabilize faster.  

 

[thrujenseyes]

 

 
 
What do I base the need for a water change...ammonia?  I know I have a tiny nitate reading but I also know it's not terrible.

If you have an aquarium full of soft water and didn't do any water changes it will eventually turn into very hard water or even brackish water.  The primare reason to do a water change in an established tank is to keep the water hardness stable.  If however a test or you suspect there is something toxic in the water (such as ammonia), you definitly do need to do a water change.   For my established tank it has gone gone two weeks without a water change without any problems  So for me if my automatic fish feeder is working correctly a 2 week vacation  is not an issue.  But once I get back I need to do a larger water cycle or more frequent water cycles to get it back to normal water hardness.
 
Ok perfect!
 

 
 
If my PH comes up ...do I remove it?  Will it keep raising?  Keep in mind my tank is super small, 6 gallon.

Leave it in there Once the PH stabilizes it won't go up any more due to the shell.  The shells dissolve in acidic water but do not dissolve in basic water. So the shell will only have any effect if the PH is is above 7.  Since you just started using it, it may take some time for the tank to go up to 7.  Adding more shells or putting a couple in the filter would probably cause the tank to stabilize faster.  


Ok, bear with me a minute...
So once the PH stabilizes (does that mean neutral water of 7ph or 7 and higher)?  And you said the shell will only have effect if the PH is above 7...?  That confuses me, does that mean it will not affect my super acidic water of 6.4?  Or it will just stop adding hardness after it reaches 7?
I'm sorry for so many questions.  I'm just trying to understand the best I can.
 
Thank you

 

[thrujenseyes]

Fish don't need to actually die to be harmed by chemicals.  And no one here can prove their fish are not affected in some way by Excel.  This approach is like a person who decides to smoke because it is safe for some people; some day it will likely catch you up, and it is not pleasant.  It's your life, and your fish.
 
Edit.  Something occurred to me as I was thinking about this, and I may be able to put this in a more understandable form.  
 
I have been dealing with cancer for nine years now.  Without going into details, it is not a cancer that is likely to kill me, unless I ignored it, and it is currently in remission, though it has done this a couple times previously and come back.  But for the present it is in remission and there is no reason why I should not have a relatively normal lifespan (I'm in my mid-60's now).  But something has been very evident over the past four years, and that is the significant impact this has made on my general well-being.  There is no doubt at all but that I have been weakened by this, physically and mentally, from both the cancer itself and the very unpleasant treatments.  My life today is a fraction of what it was nine years ago.  I am still alive, but I no not have the physical energy nor the enthusiasm that I did previously.  Anyone seeing me would never realise this, as I appear much the same as I was before this occurred.  But it has taken a serious toll on my life.
 
There is no logical reason to assume anything different with fish.  Nitrates are believed by many to be "harmless," but reliable sources know we are very wrong in thinking this.  And the most obvious effect is a general weakening of the fish.  Life may go on, externally unchanged to us, but the fish has had a serious issue affect it.  There is no logical reason why dumping needless chemicals, and especially those that are so obviously dangerously toxic, into the fish's environment knowing it will get inside the fish.  A more lush plant is not worth the risk to the fish.
 
Byron.

Byron, 
I just noticed this edit you made...I hadn't seen it until now.
 
I'm really sorry for what you've gone (and are still going) thru.
 
I lost both of my parents to cancer by the time I was 25 (I'm now 43).  My Mom battled it for 14 years.  The toll it took on her life was insane...to say the least.  And it took a toll on all of us that loved her.  
My Dad only found out about his cancer 6 months before he passed (I assume he had it for quite a while).   
 
Anyway I understand what you're saying and the comparison that you're making.  And any pets that we may have rely on us to keep them healthy and safe since they can't do it for themselves.  
 
Although I suppose we don't always see or realize the things causing us harm.  But the better informed we are about dangers...the better we all are.
 
Good luck with everything and congratulations on being a survivor.

 

[StevenF]

 
Ok, bear with me a minute...
So once the PH stabilizes (does that mean neutral water of 7ph or 7 and higher)?  And you said the shell will only have effect if the PH is above 7...?  That confuses me, does that mean it will not affect my super acidic water of 6.4?  Or it will just stop adding hardness after it reaches 7?
I'm sorry for so many questions.  I'm just trying to understand the best I can.

Sorry I made a typo.  Based on my understanding the shell will dissolve (slowly in acidic water and not in basic water.  Meaning the shell will only dissolve if the ph is Below 7  It will stop dissolving at about a pH of 7.    So it only has an effect if the ph is below 7.  
 
One thing to keep in mind we don't yet know what is in your water.  It is possible that there is something in there that will prevent the PH from reaching 7.  Hopefully continued use of RO water will eventually get you to a PH of 7.

 
I was just researching test strips since I'm doing so many testings lately and will continue since my water has been such a mess.  It would be much easier to use strips instead of the API freshwater kit that I currently use.  Plus I'm down to three test tubes and it's a real pain.
 
Anyway I remembered you saying the tetra 6 in 1 were good and accurate.  I noticed they do not have ammonia on the strip.  Is it hard to find a strip that has the others plus ammonia...or are they not accurate?
 
Or should I just stick with the API and get myself some more test tubes (which it seems you can only buy in a pack of 24?!?).

When I had to buy a replacement tube I purchased thesehttps/www.amazon.com/LaMotte-0898-Glass-Test-Capacity/dp/B00EA904Y4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472785640&sr=8-1&keywords=glass+test+tube+5ml+graduation
 
You will probably not find a strip with ammonia and other test.  The Tetra Ammonia test strip needs to be exposed to water for about 10 seconds.  The tetra 6 in 1 strips in comparison are only exposed to tank water for 1/2 to 1 second.  I have never used any other brand than tetra so there might be strips out there that work differently and might include other tests with ammonia.  However that said I found the Tetra ammonia strips hard to use.  The green shading is difficult to match to the chart and if you don't read them right away you might get a false positive.  I would keep your current test kit it.  It is still good and it can be used to verify the strip results.  If after time they continue to work well for your you can put the API kit on the shelf and just use the strips.  
 
The biggest factors affecting accuracy is:
1) following the instructions correctly.  For the strips you put them in the water vertically and then pull them vertically.  The strips should be exposed to water for less than one second.   In fact I have found a 0.5 second exposure to water works well.  So basically you stab the water and yank the strip out of the tank fast.
2) the ability of the person to match the color with the reference chart.  If you are color blind conventional color tests will not work.
3) the spectrum of the light when the test is compared to the reference chart.  Comparing the color with a chart will give you best results under indirect outdoor light.  Some colors will not show up well under interior lights.
 
In reality standard aquarium test are really not very accurate.  They are only accurate  enough to do the job .  If you want accuracy other methods are better and typically cost more.  however beyond accuracy some people just prefer liquids over strips and some prefer electric meters despite the higher cost. Each type of test has its positives and negatives.  Also there is noting wrong with having multiple different test on hand. In fact I think it is a good idea. If you get a reading that looks wrong you can always use a different test to verify the results.
 
There are a couple of other options to consider:
 
JBL now sells test strips that can be read by a cell phone app.https/www.amazon.com/JBL-Smartphone-Evaluation-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00R5S9EQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472792177&sr=8-1&keywords=Jbl+test+strips
I have not used them so I don't know how well they work.
 
I personally like these http/hannainst.com/products/checker-colorimeters/hi700-ammonia-lr.html highly accurate, cost more and no color charts. I currently own 3.  Each only tests one water parameter and there are about 20 different tests available http/hannainst.com/products/checker-colorimeters.html
 
Electric PH meters http/hannainst.com/categories/ph-checkers-for-education.html
I purchased one for $40.  However you need to also buy calibration fluids, storage fluids, and cleaning fluids which probably cost me another $20.
 
Total Dissolved Solids meter http/hannainst.com/products/testers/primo-tds-tester.html
This measures all solids in water while GH reads mainly calcium and magnesium. The two tests are not directly comparable but both are useful.  Also needs calibration fluids but in general only need vibration 1 to 3 times a year.