Extra Pics

[orandas]

could do with some help diagnosing this please...thx

wouldn't let me edit earlier post.

 

[FishNChimps]

What am I looking at? It looks like a fossil.

 

[the_lock_man]

Slight pineconing towards the rear could be the onset of dropsy.

 

[orandas]

Slight pineconing towards the rear could be the onset of dropsy.

noone knows what it is, but they suggested a treatment, so off to try, and will report back.

 

[Dieses Madchen]

Slight pineconing towards the rear could be the onset of dropsy.

+1, definite pineconing there..

 

[the_lock_man]

Slight pineconing towards the rear could be the onset of dropsy.

noone knows what it is, but they suggested a treatment, so off to try, and will report back.

If you don't know what it is, it's dangerous to start treating. Medications are often harmful to fish. If it's not treating the actual problem, it could just weaken the fish still further.

 

[orandas]

Its not dropsy guys.........will get a better pic

the white stuff


It may have something to do with the recent addition of plants, so i've binned the plants and did a 90% water change, and monitor.

i really liked those plants aswell

their roots were, brown and rotton yet the leaves were green & healthy....don't get it. Or it could be the aloe vera in the stress coat - last drop of the bottle anyway and trying something else -Sodium Thiosulfate.

Don't worry i don't do meds.........salt dip is what i had in mind.....since it seems external

 

[nanoMama86]

No I do no think it is dropsy, I think it an excess of slime coat from too much additive to the water. Stress coat is good stuff, but especially the last few drops are extra thick and can over coat the slower moving fish, so of course our beloved goldies get it clumped up on them. The salt baths are the best idea,imo. I think if you want to control nitrates you should go for an aquatic plant, like water sprite, that is fast growing and can take goldies munching on them. I have never kept orandas, but i do have fantails, and I have encountered this before.


I love the black oranda though and am jealous! I can never find healthy orandas where i live and have wanted one for a while. Good luck and +1 on being cautious with meds on these guys. Fancies are really more delicate than people realize.

 

[hanny93]

No I do no think it is dropsy, I think it an excess of slime coat from too much additive to the water. Stress coat is good stuff, but especially the last few drops are extra thick and can over coat the slower moving fish, so of course our beloved goldies get it clumped up on them.

What, really?

Fish create their own slime coat, stresscoat the dechlorinator just aids production of the slime coat and aids healing, or so it says. I know, i used it with goldies a few years ago.

It looks like dropsy which is lethal so get doing your water changes anmd keep doing them, and plants would be a good idea, cheap, fast growing things like elodea that wont matter if the goldies eat them.

Reduce feeding over the next couple of days aswell.

 

[orandas]

No I do no think it is dropsy, I think it an excess of slime coat from too much additive to the water. Stress coat is good stuff, but especially the last few drops are extra thick and can over coat the slower moving fish, so of course our beloved goldies get it clumped up on them. The salt baths are the best idea,imo. I think if you want to control nitrates you should go for an aquatic plant, like water sprite, that is fast growing and can take goldies munching on them. I have never kept orandas, but i do have fantails, and I have encountered this before.


I love the black oranda though and am jealous! I can never find healthy orandas where i live and have wanted one for a while. Good luck and +1 on being cautious with meds on these guys. Fancies are really more delicate than people realize.

Thanks. He's been with us for 3 yrs. i bought him from a lfs which specialise in kois and other aquatics. He was only small (half a finger) when we got him, then overnight he exploded in growth (palm size), with very long fins, when he swims its a sight to behold. His wen extends from his head down to his face, so we call him beardy.

He did well in the salt dip, and next day, he was very active.

Apart from the slime looking very unattractive, he's eating, swimming and pooing, so i'm hopeing its just the aloe.

I'm doing 90% daily water changes too just in case. And melafix (at half concentration) incase its bacteria - covering all grounds, but naturally, and without harm to the filter bacteria.

i will look into the water sprite. but my fishes motto is 'move it, or loose it'

No I do no think it is dropsy, I think it an excess of slime coat from too much additive to the water. Stress coat is good stuff, but especially the last few drops are extra thick and can over coat the slower moving fish, so of course our beloved goldies get it clumped up on them.

What, really?

Fish create their own slime coat, stresscoat the dechlorinator just aids production of the slime coat and aids healing, or so it says. I know, i used it with goldies a few years ago.

It looks like dropsy which is lethal so get doing your water changes anmd keep doing them, and plants would be a good idea, cheap, fast growing things like elodea that wont matter if the goldies eat them.

Reduce feeding over the next couple of days aswell.

stresscoat has aloe added, and its quite jelly/gooey. Its not dropsy , i know what dropsy looks like. Thanks, though i am doing daily water changes, and didn't feed him after the salt dip.

 

[nanoMama86]

If it doesn't clear after a couple of days, I highly recommend Tetra or Jungle LifeGuard in a quarantine tank. Put your beaut of a fish in first, then drop in the fizz tab. It is awesome on goldie slime issues imo. 72 hours of treatment with it should see it clear right up, even though the box says five days, really that is too harsh for our goldies and 72 hours has never failed to clear issues for me. I only use it after all else has failed, ie; salt dips and melafix and large water changes.


People who are not familiar with the body shape and coloration of orandas could easily be confused by a top-down pic into thinking dropsy, but this fish is not displaying dropsy symptoms typical for an oranda or the very similar if not exactly shaped fantail.

Oh, I almost forgot, you could try, since he is eating, putting him in qt for a few hours with a faster than normal current, then returning him to the main tank. Don't add any melafix to the qt tank, as we want the excess off when you return him to the main tank so that the melafix has closer contact with his skin. Use a big filter on the qt with lots of fresh carbon to pull off as much excess as possible. I do not think it is necessary to cut back the amount you are feeding if you go this route. He will be tired and HUNGRY when you return him to your main tank, I usually feed several small meals when i do this method to help keep their strength up. This is my preferred slime problem fix for my koi and goldies too, if it does not respond to more conservative action. Of course, for my koi, the qt tank is a baby swimming pool, you know, the little 3 ring jobs? I put a fx5 on it PACKED with carbon, add my water conditioner, a little salt, then it takes me anywhere from 1 to 5 hours trying to catch my fish. I also use this time to inspect my koi for health and body condition.


Oh well...got off talking about my pond....sorry...anyway, the advice is sound, i use the same method on my fannies as I call them.

Oh and DO NOT net him! Use a bowl or pitcher for the back and forth.

 

[orandas]

If it doesn't clear after a couple of days, I highly recommend Tetra or Jungle LifeGuard in a quarantine tank. Put your beaut of a fish in first, then drop in the fizz tab. It is awesome on goldie slime issues imo. 72 hours of treatment with it should see it clear right up, even though the box says five days, really that is too harsh for our goldies and 72 hours has never failed to clear issues for me. I only use it after all else has failed, ie; salt dips and melafix and large water changes.


People who are not familiar with the body shape and coloration of orandas could easily be confused by a top-down pic into thinking dropsy, but this fish is not displaying dropsy symptoms typical for an oranda or the very similar if not exactly shaped fantail.

Oh, I almost forgot, you could try, since he is eating, putting him in qt for a few hours with a faster than normal current, then returning him to the main tank. Don't add any melafix to the qt tank, as we want the excess off when you return him to the main tank so that the melafix has closer contact with his skin. Use a big filter on the qt with lots of fresh carbon to pull off as much excess as possible. I do not think it is necessary to cut back the amount you are feeding if you go this route. He will be tired and HUNGRY when you return him to your main tank, I usually feed several small meals when i do this method to help keep their strength up. This is my preferred slime problem fix for my koi and goldies too, if it does not respond to more conservative action. Of course, for my koi, the qt tank is a baby swimming pool, you know, the little 3 ring jobs? I put a fx5 on it PACKED with carbon, add my water conditioner, a little salt, then it takes me anywhere from 1 to 5 hours trying to catch my fish. I also use this time to inspect my koi for health and body condition.


Oh well...got off talking about my pond....sorry...anyway, the advice is sound, i use the same method on my fannies as I call them.

Oh and DO NOT net him! Use a bowl or pitcher for the back and forth.

many thx for this tip....will give it a go.
Had combi-boiler issues in the last 48hrs - the circuit board on the boiler needs replacing.....so no hot water in the house!! Til this tues when they get the parts and fix it.
All hot water via kettle at the mo

No i don't net them, i used a large bowl, until he outgrew even that, now i use both my hands.....agree its gentler on them.
Baby swimming pool....hehe......i considered that.....then used a koi holding tank instead as their Q tank....problem was the plastic sides aren't great for the suckers holding up the spray bars etc for the external cannister. the suckers kept slidding and the spray bar slipping and bashing an unsuspecting or slow oranda.

 

[nanoMama86]

I tie the bar using fishing line to bricks to keep it from falling in. I like to use a brand new pool every time, especially if I am treating a disease, because I feel you can never really get anything as sterile as new. They are cheap, as well, so I buy 5 or so every summer. How is the big beauty doing today?

 

[orandas]

I tie the bar using fishing line to bricks to keep it from falling in. I like to use a brand new pool every time, especially if I am treating a disease, because I feel you can never really get anything as sterile as new. They are cheap, as well, so I buy 5 or so every summer. How is the big beauty doing today?

Oh i have fishing line spare....good tip...thx. It is hard sterilizing. I even tried potassium permanganate - that purple stuff stains everything.

Thanks for asking, he's holding up. Did a 2nd salt dip today, he's so good natured, nothing fazes him. All 3 years i've had him, he never had a single problem, he was from very good stock. A redcap ( a tenth of his size), suspects somethings wrong, and keeps targeting him(creeping up on him when he's not looking) by nipping beardy's gorgous flowing fins.....so i put the redcap in a breeders net for now...no nipping or tearing his fin allowed.

 

[orandas]

oh...before i forget, i've recently come across koi clay, and i'm seriously considering using this, have you tried it by any chance? Any probs with it? They say its ok for goldfishes too?