Fantail Goldfish Tails

[Mfish123]

An ultraviolet steriliser (UV light) won't make any difference to this. Save your money and send it back or cancel the order.

-------------------

Garlic in fish food doesn't do much and is a bit of a gimmick. Fish food manufacturers put things in fish food that people recognise (eg: wheat flour, garlic, rosemary, vitamins). Most of these things are useful to people but not fish. You can try it and it might help but fish never evolved to eat terrestrial plants, let alone terrestrial plant bulbs like garlic.

Goldfish need lots of plant matter in their diet and you can grow duckweed (small floating plant) and other aquatic plants like Ambulia outside in plastic containers. Each week you bring some of the plants in and put them in the aquarium for the fish to eat.

-------------------

If you add a 1/2 to 1 inch layer of fine gravel to the aquarium and get a basic model gravel cleaner, you can gravel clean the substrate (gravel) each time you do a water change. Don't buy an electric gravel cleaner for an aquarium, they are rubbish and a waste of money. Just get a basic model gravel cleaner like the one in the following link and use that to drain water and clean the substrate at the same time. You can also make a gravel cleaner out of a plastic drink bottle and garden hose.

Aquarium Cleaning Made Easy

Aquarium cleaning should take 30 minutes every two weeks. Learn how the professionals do it in 18 easy steps.

www.about-goldfish.com

Home made gravel cleaner
Get a 1, 1.5 or 2 litre plastic drink bottle (like a Coca cola bottle).
Cut the bottom off the bottle and throw the bottom bit in the recycling bin.
Remove the cap and plastic ring from the top of the bottle and put them in the recycling bin.
That's the gravel cleaner part done.
Put a garden hose into the top of the bottle and run the hose out the door onto the lawn. If you don't have a lawn, you can use a shorter piece of hose and drain the water into a bucket.
You can buy clear hose from a hardware store and either get a hose that fits snuggly into the top of the bottle, or over the outside of the top of the bottle. The bigger diameter hose on the outside will drain the water faster and is better for big tanks. A hose that fits into the top of the bottle is better for smaller tanks.

I use to have gravel but a couple of times they both got it stuck in their mouths and I nearly fish net/tweezered them out, but they managed just to get it out. So I removed all the gravel and got large pebbles instead but, cleaning became an issue and the female now has the tail fin change too. I have paused on adding anything, just because I found the cleaning of the gravel quite tricky with a Fluval pipe. I read, sand is better for goldfish and, do want to grow aquarium plants as I can afford. I can tell they miss foraging and make the most of a few tiny gravel stones that came with them when they were rescued from their previous home. There are also a few of the large pebbles I replaced the other medium sized gravel with but, the majority are out of the aquarium in a bag.

 

[Colin_T]

You can grow aquarium plants in pots so they don't need to be planted in the aquarium substrate. Just use 1 or 2 litre plastic icecream containers. Put some gravel and plant fertiliser in them and plant the plants in that. Then you just move the pot with plants into their tank for a week before moving it back outdoors for a few weeks to recover. If you have a number of pots going you simply rotate them around every week.

------------------

Goldfish will grub about in the gravel and suck it into their mouths and spit it out. They do this to find food. As long as the gravel or sand is small enough to easily go in their mouth, they should be able to spit it out without any issues.

------------------

If the ammonia and nitrite are 0ppm, and the nitrate is less than 20ppm, you just do a big water change and then add salt. Wait a week and then do another big water change and add more salt.

If you have an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0ppm, or a nitrate reading above 20ppm, you do a big (75%) water change to reduce those numbers and add salt to the new water before you put it in the tank.

 

[Mfish123]

An ultraviolet steriliser (UV light) won't make any difference to this. Save your money and send it back or cancel the order.

-------------------

Garlic in fish food doesn't do much and is a bit of a gimmick. Fish food manufacturers put things in fish food that people recognise (eg: wheat flour, garlic, rosemary, vitamins). Most of these things are useful to people but not fish. You can try it and it might help but fish never evolved to eat terrestrial plants, let alone terrestrial plant bulbs like garlic.

Goldfish need lots of plant matter in their diet and you can grow duckweed (small floating plant) and other aquatic plants like Ambulia outside in plastic containers. Each week you bring some of the plants in and put them in the aquarium for the fish to eat.

-------------------

If you add a 1/2 to 1 inch layer of fine gravel to the aquarium and get a basic model gravel cleaner, you can gravel clean the substrate (gravel) each time you do a water change. Don't buy an electric gravel cleaner for an aquarium, they are rubbish and a waste of money. Just get a basic model gravel cleaner like the one in the following link and use that to drain water and clean the substrate at the same time. You can also make a gravel cleaner out of a plastic drink bottle and garden hose.

Aquarium Cleaning Made Easy

Aquarium cleaning should take 30 minutes every two weeks. Learn how the professionals do it in 18 easy steps.

www.about-goldfish.com

Home made gravel cleaner
Get a 1, 1.5 or 2 litre plastic drink bottle (like a Coca cola bottle).
Cut the bottom off the bottle and throw the bottom bit in the recycling bin.
Remove the cap and plastic ring from the top of the bottle and put them in the recycling bin.
That's the gravel cleaner part done.
Put a garden hose into the top of the bottle and run the hose out the door onto the lawn. If you don't have a lawn, you can use a shorter piece of hose and drain the water into a bucket.
You can buy clear hose from a hardware store and either get a hose that fits snuggly into the top of the bottle, or over the outside of the top of the bottle. The bigger diameter hose on the outside will drain the water faster and is better for big tanks. A hose that fits into the top of the bottle is better for smaller tanks.

I use to have gravel but a couple of times they both got it stuck in their mouths and I nearly fish net/tweezered them out, but they managed just to get it out. So I removed all the gravel and got large pebbles instead but, cleaning became an issue and the female niuw has the tail fin change too. I have paused on adding anything, just because I found the cleaning if the gravel quite tricky with a Fluval pipe. I read, sand is better fir goldfish and do want to grow aquarium as, I can afford. I can tell they miss foraging and make the most of a few tiny gravel stones (and a few of the large pebbles) that came with them when they were rescued from their previous home.

You can grow aquarium plants in pots so they don't need to be planted in the aquarium substrate. Just use 1 or 2 litre plastic icecream containers. Put some gravel and plant fertiliser in them and plant the plants in that. Then you just move the pot with plants into their tank for a week before moving it back outdoors for a few weeks to recover. If you have a number of pots going you simply rotate them around every week.

------------------

Goldfish will grub about in the gravel and suck it into their mouths and spit it out. They do this to find food. As long as the gravel or sand is small enough to easily go in their mouth, they should be able to spit it out without any issues.

------------------

If the ammonia and nitrite are 0ppm, and the nitrate is less than 20ppm, you just do a big water change and then add salt. Wait a week and then do another big water change and add more salt.

If you have an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0ppm, or a nitrate reading above 20ppm, you do a big (75%) water change to reduce those numbers and add salt to the new water before you put it in the tank.

I see, that all makes alot of sense.

Thank you

 

[Mfish123]

I use to have gravel but a couple of times they both got it stuck in their mouths and I nearly fish net/tweezered them out, but they managed just to get it out. So I removed all the gravel and got large pebbles instead but, cleaning became an issue and the female niuw has the tail fin change too. I have paused on adding anything, just because I found the cleaning if the gravel quite tricky with a Fluval pipe. I read, sand is better fir goldfish and do want to grow aquarium as, I can afford. I can tell they miss foraging and make the most of a few tiny gravel stones (and a few of the large pebbles) that came with them when they were rescued from their previous home.

I see, that all makes alot of sense.

Thank you

 

[Mfish123]

I use to have gravel but a couple of times they both got it stuck in their mouths and I nearly fish net/tweezered them out, but they managed just to get it out. So I removed all the gravel and got large pebbles instead but, cleaning became an issue and the female niuw has the tail fin change too. I have paused on adding anything, just because I found the cleaning if the gravel quite tricky with a Fluval pipe. I read, sand is better fir goldfish and do want to grow aquarium as, I can afford. I can tell they miss foraging and make the most of a few tiny gravel stones (and a few of the large pebbles) that came with them when they were rescued from their previous home.

I see, that all makes alot of sense.

Thank you

 

[Mfish123]

View attachment 351093

 

[Colin_T]

It looks slightly worse now than last week but not a lot. It looks like septicemia but that normally has red lines in the fins leading to the red patches. Your fish doesn't have red lines. Septicemia usually spreads rapidly too and there's a noticeable difference after a few days. Fish with septicemia don't swim much and don't eat much, which makes me think it's not septicemia.

It could be a wound (damage to the tail) but that should be getting better by now.

An infection is the most likely cause and you might need antibiotics or something that kills bacteria and fungus (Waterlife Myxazin might work).

You could also wait another week and see how it goes. If it gets worse suddenly (much bigger dark red area/s) then get some medication. If it doesn't then monitor and see how it goes.

 

[Mfish123]

Hi and thank you again,

It does look a bit worse.

I am testing the water daily and made 50 to 75% water changes. All levels seem good now. Got the nitrate spike down from 80ppm 2 days ago to 5.0 today.

I increased salt for 48 hours, after what you said. Wed and Thurs doing a 100 litre water change with 15tblsp (Wed)then 20tblsp (Th) salt. But this morning Peez (the one wth reddening tail) was not wanting to come up fur breakfast and I've not seen her look that sorry for herself before..

they're usually very good for feeding. Melatrix last day today (15mls for 7 days). Did a 25% water change 35litres, with just 1 and half tbspns salt. She's picked up again this, afternoon and both are feeding happily on tubiflex treats (a usual treat). She's swimming, twirling, feeding together wth Chipz, as normal. Think the 'saltbath' 48 hrs has helped now but, I'm thinking to reduce gradually by monitoring salt levels back down to normal and, then after few days break after Melatrix and weak 'saltbath' effectively, then to administer the fin rot (etc) medication Waterlife Myxazin maybe, would you still increase salt levels for longer?

I've bought the medication you suggested after researching it. Hope it's not but, might be septesemia, though Chipz seems fine. Thanks for your opinion, I truly appreciate it so much.

I've also bought a salt level checker and will continue water tests monitoring of all levels, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

I also bought 3 aquarium plants yesterday, which really cheered them up too. Planted presently in pebbles in their pots. (as photo).

Hope all's well with you. Big, huge thanks for your time and expertise. It's such a relief to talk to you.

View attachment 351124

 

[Mfish123]

Hi,
The tank PH levels have been elevated for 3 days now, at PH 7.6 and High PH 8.2. Presuming due to increased salt treatment levels, hoping transforming the NH3 to NH4+ (salt tester not here yet). Thanks, again for your valued advice, I've been reading up after your message, I'm still learning, fish are complex creatures to look after.
I am leaving water settled, with no dramatic water changes, as Nitrate and all levels are good in aquarium.
Peez is definitely resting more but, both fish seem supportive of each other, Chipz encouraging her to feed and obviously concerned. They rest together for longer now in the evening.
I don't have an emergency tank for antibiotic treatment for Peez. I don't know if it's Septacemia or maybe ammonia poisoning due to past aquarium water not being healthy enough for them, due to my lack of experience.
But, if it is Septacemia I'm worried for Chipz being in danger of catching it but, not if it's ammonia, I think that's, right?
Monday I can begin tank treatment with Waterlife Myxazin.
For antibiotic treatment with food or water treatment, do I need to seperate them and, buy an emergency tank? I know they'll be more stressed if separated. But time is moving on and, if it's necessary now, then will do it as soon as I've got the money to.

Today, they are gently foraging around the live plants and have had one feed of a few flakes and Spectrum pellets, and 4 frozen peas. Peez is feeling poorly but, both trying to be strong together.

Thanks again, I appreciate your time.
There's surely alot to learn.

Melissa

 

[Essjay]

Salt does not affect pH, something else is causing the level to rise. The 'ordinary' pH tester is at the highest level it can test for, it will read 7.6 no matter how high the pH is. Go by the higher range tester unless that reads the lowest colour on the chart.
At higher pH more of the ammonia reading is in the toxic form, NH3. But if the reading is zero, there's none of either form.

I don't have an emergency tank for antibiotic treatment for Peez

Just a heads up, assuming your location of London is in the UK you would need to get a vet's prescription for an antibiotic, if you could find a vet willing to issue a prescription. Colin suggested Waterlife Myxazin as being the best available in the UK. That's an antibacterial rather than an antibiotic.

 

[Mfish123]

Should I reduce Salt levels before treating with Waterlife Myxazin and, if so how quickly please?
Or, should I maintain higher salt levels for the 2 weeks, introduce the Waterlife Myxazin treatment.
Or, is it best to jump straight to antibiotics for the whole tank? Instead of Waterlife Myxazin?

Thanks again

Salt does not affect pH, something else is causing the level to rise. The 'ordinary' pH tester is at the highest level it can test for, it will read 7.6 no matter how high the pH is. Go by the higher range tester unless that reads the lowest colour on the chart.
At higher pH more of the ammonia reading is in the toxic form, NH3. But if the reading is zero, there's none of either form.



Just a heads up, assuming your location of London is in the UK you would need to get a vet's prescription for an antibiotic, if you could find a vet willing to issue a prescription. Colin suggested Waterlife Myxazin as being the best available in the UK. That's an antibacterial rather than an antibiotic.

Ah ok, thanks for your message, its helpful.
The higher PH is reading 8.2, I don't know why the only change is increased salt treatment, Melafix (7 day treatment finished yesterday) and several big water changes to reduce the nitrate levels (80ppm on Tues 1-10-24 and today 5.0)

I am in the UK. I've read you can buy antibiotic feed but, I've no money to buy an isolation tank until November. I I'm really trying everything I can, I adore these fish, as we all do for our tanks.

Thanks for your reply

 

[Essjay]

Melafix could have done something, but I have no idea if tea tree oil affects pH - that's all Melafix is.

Salt and medication both reduce the oxygen content of water which is why they shouldn't really be used together. I would do as Colin says, wait a week with salt and there's no improvement do a huge water change to remove the salt then start treating the whole tank with Myxazin.


In the UK, antibiotics are prescription only to prevent the misuse of them leading to antibiotic resistant bacteria such as MRSA. Unless you can find a vet willing to prescribe for fish, we have to use the over the counter fish meds available to us.
Myxazin contains malachite green, formaldehyde and acriflavine. Malachite green is an antimicrobial used to treat external fungal, bacterial and protozoan infections of fish. Acriflavine is an antibacterial.

 

[Mfish123]

Melafix could have done something, but I have no idea if tea tree oil affects pH - that's all Melafix is.

Salt and medication both reduce the oxygen content of water which is why they shouldn't really be used together. I would do as Colin says, wait a week with salt and there's no improvement do a huge water change to remove the salt then start treating the whole tank with Myxazin.


In the UK, antibiotics are prescription only to prevent the misuse of them leading to antibiotic resistant bacteria such as MRSA. Unless you can find a vet willing to prescribe for fish, we have to use the over the counter fish meds available to us.
Myxazin contains malachite green, formaldehyde and acriflavine. Malachite green is an antimicrobial used to treat external fungal, bacterial and protozoan infections of fish. Acriflavine is an antibacterial.

Hi,
Thank you, ok I will wait the week at current Salt levels, before more treatment, makes sense not to overload and stress them.

It seems gram-negative infection due the red colouring rather than purple, antibiotic Fishbiotic Doxycycline seems it might help. What do you think? But shipping is from America and can't afford it until next month, I don't know, just researching everything at the moment.

Antibiotics and treatments as you mention are available in Australia over the counter but, for the life of me, I cannot find a fish vet near me.

I keep researching antibiotics uk but, it seems to no avail yet. So, I'm hoping the fish can get through this. It's incredibly frustrating at times
Photos today.
Heartfelt thanks again

 

[Colin_T]

It's definitely getting worse. You need to treat the tank with something asap.

Antibiotics require a vet prescription in a lot of countries due to drug resistance caused by improper use and mis-use over the decades, as mentioned by Essjay. We have the same thing in Australia. The Waterlife Myxazin is the only thing I can think of that should be available where you are and that might help.

Doxycycline is a tetracycline based antibiotic that wipes out filter bacteria and can be used to treat fish with known bacterial infections. But you will need a vet prescription for it. You probably won't get it through customs if you try to import it unless it's labelled as something else. I doubt the fish will survive a month so look for something local.

If you need to use antibiotics they work best in bare glass tanks. Your tank is pretty close to that so just wipe the inside down with a clean sponge, clean the filter and do a big (90-100%) water change before treating and re-treating the aquarium. Then monitor ammonia and nitrite levels for a few weeks after because some can wipe out the filter bacteria. You can use antibiotics with salt in the water is need be.

You should increase aeration when treating fish and remove carbon if using liquid or chemical medications. You don't need to remove carbon when using salt but you will if using Myxazin or anything else.

If you can get antibiotic food that should help but you need to start feeding it asap and feed 3 times a day (8 hours apart) for 1-2 weeks. Feed them as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes when you feed them. Check the instructions on the packaging just in case they differ.

A combination of medicated food and a medication in the water will hopefully help.

----------------------

To work out the volume of water in the tank:
measure length x width x height in cm.
divide by 1000.
= volume in litres.

When you measure the height, measure from the top of the substrate to the top of the water level.

If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove these before measuring the height of the water level so you get a more accurate water volume.

You can use a permanent marker to draw a line on the tank at the water level and put down how many litres are in the tank at that level.

There is a calculator/ converter in the "FishForum.net Calculator" under "Useful Links" at the top right of this page that will let you convert litres to gallons if you need it.

Calculator

 

[Mfish123]

It's definitely getting worse. You need to treat the tank with something asap.

Antibiotics require a vet prescription in a lot of countries due to drug resistance caused by improper use and mis-use over the decades, as mentioned by Essjay. We have the same thing in Australia. The Waterlife Myxazin is the only thing I can think of that should be available where you are and that might help.

Doxycycline is a tetracycline based antibiotic that wipes out filter bacteria and can be used to treat fish with known bacterial infections. But you will need a vet prescription for it. You probably won't get it through customs if you try to import it unless it's labelled as something else. I doubt the fish will survive a month so look for something local.

If you need to use antibiotics they work best in bare glass tanks. Your tank is pretty close to that so just wipe the inside down with a clean sponge, clean the filter and do a big (90-100%) water change before treating and re-treating the aquarium. Then monitor ammonia and nitrite levels for a few weeks after because some can wipe out the filter bacteria. You can use antibiotics with salt in the water is need be.

You should increase aeration when treating fish and remove carbon if using liquid or chemical medications. You don't need to remove carbon when using salt but you will if using Myxazin or anything else.

If you can get antibiotic food that should help but you need to start feeding it asap and feed 3 times a day (8 hours apart) for 1-2 weeks. Feed them as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes when you feed them. Check the instructions on the packaging just in case they differ.

A combination of medicated food and a medication in the water will hopefully help.

----------------------

To work out the volume of water in the tank:
measure length x width x height in cm.
divide by 1000.
= volume in litres.

When you measure the height, measure from the top of the substrate to the top of the water level.

If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove these before measuring the height of the water level so you get a more accurate water volume.

You can use a permanent marker to draw a line on the tank at the water level and put down how many litres are in the tank at that level.

There is a calculator/ converter in the "FishForum.net Calculator" under "Useful Links" at the top right of this page that will let you convert litres to gallons if you need it.

Calculator

Hi Colin,

Huge thank you both for your honesty and advice.
I will do my absolute best to get what they need in time.
I will update asap.

I truly appreciate your advice so much.
Thank you