OP
OP
Beauty Happens Slowly, Disaster Happens Quickly (or, Tank Maintenance)
I think this is a good place to stop the diatribe and just fade into the classic 'here is how my tank is doing'. But...specifically for the cube, a brief review of some stuff we can do to prevent a 'crash'. Get in the habit of doing the maintenance and stick with it. Those of you who came over here like me from FW.....these tanks won't take the missed water changes or parameter checks. So, the basics again:
Water Changes
Hey..broken record here, but, this is obviously the most important thing to do. I did weekly changes with my FW and I will do weekly with the cube to start off. If you get really good and comfortable and have a good handle on your bioload, biweekly might be the way to go. Recommendations are 10% if you do weekly changes, 15-20% if biweekly. Make sure the water is tank temp and same s.g.
Topping Off
Don't forget that evaporation will raise your salinity/specific gravity. You must top off with pure water as you see needed during the week. It can be daily or less. DO NOT top off with SW unless you are trying to bring up your s.g. SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE.
The Chambers
In chamber one, make sure you keep up with cleaning the sponge to prevent it from becoming a 'nitrate trap'. Cleanse it 1-2 times per week in either aquarium water or change it out altogether (rotate it) with another sponge. Some cubers don't use a sponge at all, so, biologic activity loss seems much less a risk in view of our great live rock.
In chamber two, make sure your temp probe batteries stay fresh. I put a backup LCD strip on the back side of my tank. Use a gravel siphon to do some cleanup if you placed LR rubble in here.
In chamber three, don't forget that the pump requires monthly maintenance. The impeller may need cleaning. Some people have put a sock over the intake if they have detritus getting into the pump. I have the sieve/screen that came with the Maxijet.
Substrate
As long as you have a good cleanup crew, there shouldn't be much to do for your substrate. Some people try a light gravel vac but, seems not to work very well for obvious reasons.
Saltkreep
This build up of salt on the edge of the tank can be wiped clean with a damp cloth. NEVER USE CHEMICALS OR A CONTAMINATED RAG.
Algae
Algae may have to be scraped from the tank walls. The MagFloat works well. If you have other areas of algae building up...check your cleanup crew roster and see if you need any more or different players.
Lighting
Don't forget to have replacement lights available around the six month period. CPF bulbs begin to lose some lighting power at this point.
Parameters
This is your call depending on how your tank runs and how your nitrates are. Obviously, more frequently in the beginning is better until you know that you keep getting '0's all the time. Don't forget s.g. And, finally:
Deadly Nitrates, What Do I Do?
In general, zero tolerance for nitrates. SW inverts and fish just don't do well with them...in fact..it's poison. If you start turning up nitrates, you'd better look into it and quickly.
Possible Sources
1) Poor tank maintenance
2) Lapse of/infrequent water changes
3) Overfeeding
4) Overstocking
5) Someone's dead
6) Nitrate 'traps'
Remedies
1) Immediate water change. If you are using filtered tap water (which isn't the best option), check it for nitrates. You may want to switch to distilled or RO. Pure water is still the best and the absence of phosphates may also reduce the chance of an algae bloom.
2) Examine your feeding habits....reduce feeding
3) If you used the ceramic beads and/or bioballs, clean them in aquarium water or discontinue them altogether. Siphon out the live rubble chamber
4) Clean that sponge. Consider cutting it in half, or discontinuing it or switching it out.
5) Consider adding a refugium with macroalgae to help with nitrates in the tank
6) Return any overstocked livestock to your lfs...they should take them back and its the most humane thing to do.
I think this is a good place to stop the diatribe and just fade into the classic 'here is how my tank is doing'. But...specifically for the cube, a brief review of some stuff we can do to prevent a 'crash'. Get in the habit of doing the maintenance and stick with it. Those of you who came over here like me from FW.....these tanks won't take the missed water changes or parameter checks. So, the basics again:
Water Changes
Hey..broken record here, but, this is obviously the most important thing to do. I did weekly changes with my FW and I will do weekly with the cube to start off. If you get really good and comfortable and have a good handle on your bioload, biweekly might be the way to go. Recommendations are 10% if you do weekly changes, 15-20% if biweekly. Make sure the water is tank temp and same s.g.
Topping Off
Don't forget that evaporation will raise your salinity/specific gravity. You must top off with pure water as you see needed during the week. It can be daily or less. DO NOT top off with SW unless you are trying to bring up your s.g. SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE.
The Chambers
In chamber one, make sure you keep up with cleaning the sponge to prevent it from becoming a 'nitrate trap'. Cleanse it 1-2 times per week in either aquarium water or change it out altogether (rotate it) with another sponge. Some cubers don't use a sponge at all, so, biologic activity loss seems much less a risk in view of our great live rock.
In chamber two, make sure your temp probe batteries stay fresh. I put a backup LCD strip on the back side of my tank. Use a gravel siphon to do some cleanup if you placed LR rubble in here.
In chamber three, don't forget that the pump requires monthly maintenance. The impeller may need cleaning. Some people have put a sock over the intake if they have detritus getting into the pump. I have the sieve/screen that came with the Maxijet.
Substrate
As long as you have a good cleanup crew, there shouldn't be much to do for your substrate. Some people try a light gravel vac but, seems not to work very well for obvious reasons.
Saltkreep
This build up of salt on the edge of the tank can be wiped clean with a damp cloth. NEVER USE CHEMICALS OR A CONTAMINATED RAG.
Algae
Algae may have to be scraped from the tank walls. The MagFloat works well. If you have other areas of algae building up...check your cleanup crew roster and see if you need any more or different players.
Lighting
Don't forget to have replacement lights available around the six month period. CPF bulbs begin to lose some lighting power at this point.
Parameters
This is your call depending on how your tank runs and how your nitrates are. Obviously, more frequently in the beginning is better until you know that you keep getting '0's all the time. Don't forget s.g. And, finally:
Deadly Nitrates, What Do I Do?
In general, zero tolerance for nitrates. SW inverts and fish just don't do well with them...in fact..it's poison. If you start turning up nitrates, you'd better look into it and quickly.
Possible Sources
1) Poor tank maintenance
2) Lapse of/infrequent water changes
3) Overfeeding
4) Overstocking
5) Someone's dead
6) Nitrate 'traps'
Remedies
1) Immediate water change. If you are using filtered tap water (which isn't the best option), check it for nitrates. You may want to switch to distilled or RO. Pure water is still the best and the absence of phosphates may also reduce the chance of an algae bloom.
2) Examine your feeding habits....reduce feeding
3) If you used the ceramic beads and/or bioballs, clean them in aquarium water or discontinue them altogether. Siphon out the live rubble chamber
4) Clean that sponge. Consider cutting it in half, or discontinuing it or switching it out.
5) Consider adding a refugium with macroalgae to help with nitrates in the tank
6) Return any overstocked livestock to your lfs...they should take them back and its the most humane thing to do.
