24G Nano Cube DX Nano Reef Setup

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canyoubeleiveit, it is true that stacking liverock will impede its filtration capacity however; as marine keepers we need to make cimprimises everyday. The requirements of the fish mean that they need a territory to feel safe and of corse "we" ned a tank to look pleasing to the eye. Whilst stackinh the liverock will hamper its filtering capacity, the calculations made for reef tanks at 1lbs of rock per gallon of tank allows for such aquascaping. By increasing the flow in the tank means that the rock filters better and less deadspots occur hence this is one of the reasons why high flow rates are recomendind in marine tanks
 
Wow, that looks great! I love the arrangement of the rocks :thumbs:
 
I didn't mean to sound negative in my post, the LR arrangement looks GREAT!!!!! :kana: Thanks for the replies... I'm going to buy some smaller pieces so I can do some stacking!
 
Canyoubelieveit, you didn't sound negative at all. It was a good point to bring up. LR filtration is a critical issue with a nano...and..thanks Navarre for coming to this thread. SH
 
OK, What do I do Now?

For one thing, take a breather. I'm glad I put a tarp down on the floor because that was sort of messy. Some points to ponder now that the rock is in:

Cycling

Ok, the tank is now cycling. If you used uncured like me, this could take 2-6 weeks. If cured, you could be cycled in 1-2 weeks or less if lucky. Parameters to follow are the usual: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. How frequently...there are different opinions. I'm going to test daily.

Lighting

Again...some different opinions here. If you don't supply light to the coralline algae on the LR, you will have more die off. Some recommend 10-12 hours per day for cured. Some say start 2 hours per day in the beginning and increase daily, uncured. If your rock is cured, I'd start light up right away.

Water Changes

Popular posts say to avoid water changes during the cycle to prevent delaying it. Others recommend a change if you have a very high spike in ammonia. If you do do a water change, most recommend a 10% one

Specific Gravity

As the week goes on, you will have some evaporation from the tank. Remember that in a marine tank, salt does not evaporate and the s.g. will slowly rise. This is when one will 'top off' with pure water. If your s.g. needs to be gently raised, eg, you need to go from s.g. 1.023 to 1.025, you can carefully topoff with SW. If you are at the s.g. you want to maintain, you will top off with pure water.

Saltkreep

As water evaporates, it will leave crusted salt on the top of the tank. This should be wiped off with a clean moist cloth. Make sure you don't use any chemicals or a cloth that was used elsewhere.

Algae

Yes..it's coming and hopefully not overwhelming. This when to add ( and I love this term) The Cleanup Crew..to be discussed. I'm going to try and take more pix for Grey Legion tonite. SH
 
Well Grey...I'm expecting a post of your tank when it is up and running. Feel free to post it here. SH
 
Hi...I know I promised not to bore everone with parameters, but, I thought the first set would be interesting:

pH 7.6
ammonia 1.0 ppm
nitrite 2.0
nitrate 10 ppm
Looks like the live sand IS live.

More views for Grey Legion:

Front
nano11.jpg

Left side
nano12.jpg

Right side
nano13.jpg

Close up of the right side
nano14.jpg

With moonight LEDs
nano15.jpg


Thanks. SH
 
I love the look with the moonlights, it's just stunning!!!
 
....something is swimming in my tank. LOLOL. I think it's a copepod. The first sign of life. SH

What the Heck is That in My Tank, or, Week 1

Well..there IS something swimming in my tank and it's already day 2. This is cool. So, what's gonna be going on with the Nano Cube. Below is just a rough idea:

Week 1-2

Avoid water changes. Top off with pure water if necessary. Check parameters on the tank. With uncured, start lighting 1-2 hours/day and slowly increase about 1/2 hour per day until 8-12 hours are reached. You may start to see little white things moving around. These may be copepods and are GOOD...food.

Week 2-3

Make sure all equipment is working. Check powerheads. Top off the water. Diatoms may start to appear.

Week 4-5

Diatoms recede and, hopefully, by now ammonia and nitrite are zero. Time for the 1st water change. If you are mixing, premix the night before. If buying..well...all you have to do is warm up the SW and check s.g. Then, time to add the Cleanup Crew

Week 6-8

Water changes as needed and when parameters are 'excellent', time to add your livestock slowly.

The Cleanup Crew

After cycling and after appearance of algae, it's time to add the Cleanup Crew. This is a crew of invertebrates to help keep your tank clean. Some will eat algae; some will eat detritus; some will actually clean your fish of parasites. They all perform a purpose. Again, this is just a guideline. Choice of characters and researching them I'll leave to you. The inverts have to be acclimated the same as livestock. Again, here is a good acclimation guide:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...eral_pagesid=19

Snails
General recommendations are 1 snail/1-2 gallons. As you add them, remember not to add too many of one kind...you don't want to add 10 snails that eat algae and then have them starve while no one is there to eat hair algae, eg. Here is an example of a cleanup crew somone used in their 20 gallon:

5 Nassarius Snails
3 Astraea Snails
5 Cerith Snails
1 Turbo Snails
1 Fighting Conch
1 Scarlett Reef Hermit

1)Astrea--these have sharp, conical shells with circular ridges. They remain small
Advantages: they stay small. Great herbivores. Very hardy.
Disadvantages: if they fall, they can't right themselves and may die.
astreasnail1.jpg


2) Nassarius--These are small snails that burrow in the sand and eat detritus. They
are more scavengers than algae eaters. They are becoming more popular and
receive a lot of good comments from others

nassarius1.jpg


3) Turbo--They have black shells and grow to 3".
Advantages: Excellent herbivores
Disadvantages: They can knock things over in the tank and it is not
uncommon for them to die from poor acclimation.
mexicanturbosnail1.jpg


4) Cerith--small, less than 1" snails with pointed shells, usually covered with coralline algae.
Advantages: Good herbivores. Hardy and long lived.
Disadvantages: Not effective against hair algae
cerithsnail1.jpg


5) Nerite--small, less than 1" with a rounded shell covered with coralline algae. Sometimes has a stripe or spots
Advantages: Good herbivores, hardy, long lived
Disadvantages: may wander out of the tank
nerite-snail-1.jpg


6) Other snail for you to look up: Trocus Grazers. Upcoming, crabs and hermits. SH
 
Steelhealr, i noticed you are using uncured liverock for cycling your system. Have you considered using Live phytoplankton on the systerm in this state? It should stop and nasty odores from the tank and the tank should cycle far faster.
 
Hi Navarre..it seems my tank is cycling. My ammonia started out at 1 and dropped to 0.5 ppm. Nitrite is up to 2ppm and I now have nitrates, 30ppm. I'm not sure if they included some precured in my shipment, or, the live sand is VERY alive. Interesting tho, my pH dropped from 8.2 to 7.6....I'm wondering if this is just a lot of organic detritus/acids from the die off since it is freshly made up SW and the substrate is aragonite. I'm not sure if they included some precured in my shipment, or, the live sand is VERY alive. Please though, post here what you know about phytoplankton and cycling so we can all benefit. Thanks for keeping up with this thread. SH
 
Crabs

Crabs are another invertebrate that you can add to your cube. General recommendations are only 1-2 per 3-5 gallons if small and only one if they are large. Some types can be semi-aggressive and some might pick at corals. Others have good advantages in that they eat leftover food or detritus. One eats a nano cube pest, bubble algae.

1) Emerald crabs (mithrax)--a green crab with heavy claws and hair on it's hind legs. Primarily nocturnal, hiding in crevices during the day. Generally not aggressive.Very hardy and eat algae.
Advantages: they eat hair and bubble algae;very hardy
Disadvantages: they may not control ALL the algae; some may pick at
coral;larger crabs might become aggressive
nemeraldcrab.jpg


2) Sally Light Foot (Nimble Spray crab)--this crab generally gets a 'no vote' in the nano reef forums. The crab has yellow markings around it's joints and a green-brown carapace. Primarily algae eaters and very active.
Advantages: pick at algae on LR and eat left over food; very hardy.
Disadvantages: Nano reefers claim this crab may attack your corals.
They do walk over them and disturb them; can compete aggressively for food;
low iodine levels may cause molting problems; larger crabs have been accused
of attacking shrimp.
SallyLightfoot5.jpg


Hermits

First off, there are some nano-reefers who don't put hermit crabs into their tanks. It appears that some may get aggressive and darn right thefty. Not only can they steal food from others, they can steal their homes. They are very good scavengers though, so, you'll decide on whether or not to use them.

1) Red leg hermit--these are dark red with yellowon the eye stalk and claw tips.
Advantages: very hardy, good scavengers;clean algae;
Disadvantages: can grow fairly large; can uproot corals and loosen rocks
154128.jpg


2) Left handed hermits: this hermit's left claw is larger than the right, used to close off the shell. It has long eye stalks. Herbivorous.
Advantages: sifts and aerates the sandbed; eats red slime algae
(cyanobacteria)
Disadvantages: vulnerable when molting/leaving it's shell,
bold temperament
ZebraHermitCrab.jpg


3) Blue legged hermit: small hermit crab with bright blue legs. They are scavengers and will eat detritus and algae.
Advantages:very hardy; stays small
Disadvantages: has been known to harass and attack other snails; needs
needs new shells as it grows, thus, need to keep some shells in the tank
BlueLeggedHermit7.jpg


Other hermits to look up: the scarlet hermit.
 
Quick question... just because I'm curious. What are you seeing in your tank that's making your live sand look LIVE?
 

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