210 Gallon With Overflow

[chophousemusic]

I picked up this 210 gallon for free from the LFS, but I have a glass guy coming to reseal the thing for me, cause it leaks from the front bottom. Now it has two overflows inside the tank..1 on each side.... they each have two holes at the bottom going out the tank ..one hole smaller than the other.

Which Im guessing is the IN and Out flow of water... Now im assuming this can hook up to either a canister filter or wet/dry filter? But am I going to need 2 filters because there are 2 over flows ?? I was looking into the Fluval FX5...would one of these be enough? Would i have to close the other holes ?

or any recommendations on cheapest way to get her done ??

 

[LauraFrog]

Not familiar with the equipment, so I can't help you (sorry) but I just had to point out... I thought MY lfs was good... and yours hands out free 210 gallon tanks! Adopt me!

 

[minxfishy]

I could be wrong and often am, but if the holes are at the bottom of the tank, then they are for a sump. So I dont know how you would hook up an external for them, unless you replaced the entire bottom glass and then used an external as normal.

As I say I could be wrong.

 

[shroob]

Yeah, the holes will be to a sump most likely (though they will both be outflows), with water returning to the tank though pipes leading to the top of the tank - I think. I have never completely understood the placement of 2 holes in the bottom of the tank - if power goes off the whole tank will drain and 99.9" of the time sumps won't be bigger than the actual tank, meaning you got a flood. However, there are things called 'weirs' where the holes in the bottom of the tank are surrounded by glass/acrylic partitions that go to just below the water line (so that a little water goes over, and if power goes off its not a disaster). Its hard to explain in text but basically if you're getting them sealed and plugging up the holes I'd just go for an FX5 which should work depending on stock levels.

 

[loachman]

They are the drain and return lines for a sump. They're very common in reef tanks, although there is no reason you can't use them in a freshwater tank. The large hole is for the drain, the small is the return line. Do a search on durso standpipes are a good design for the drain lines, as they're quiet. It is a relatively easy DIY project.

Reefcentral.com is a good location for sump plumbing designs. www.melevsreef.com also has some IIRC. Granted, they are all for marine/reef setups but the plumbing is no different other than you'll probably have no additional powerheads in the tank. Put a canister filter in the sump instead of a skimmer.

Yeah, the holes will be to a sump most likely (though they will both be outflows), with water returning to the tank though pipes leading to the top of the tank - I think. I have never completely understood the placement of 2 holes in the bottom of the tank - if power goes off the whole tank will drain and 99.9" of the time sumps won't be bigger than the actual tank, meaning you got a flood.

The drain lines take care of it. For one, the water must flow over the overflows to get to that section. So the tank will always have a depth equal to the height of the overflows. Additionally, the drain line is a pipe that is ~75% (or more) the height of the tank, so the water in the overflow section is close to the height of the water in the main tank section. You never have a pure "hole" in the bottom of the tank, they're just locations to run the pipe in. They're also a bit more robust design than weirs, as while they can both get clogged, drainpipes can't fail by loss of suction (gravity always works).

WIth power loss, you get some water draining back to the sump. However, this is really only the amount of water in the pipes. A few gallons max, which is easily handled by an appropriately sized sump.

 

[england]

Mate you lucky person you, here pm this bloke, he should be able to advise you

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showuser=37334