Search results

i used a flat stanley knife razor blade to cut off sillicone and get inbetween glass panes.

hmm seeing as your going for a hc foreground, id go for crypt parva or pogostemon helferi instead of the e.tennelus, why dont you like the crypts? some of the smaller ones are lovely, needle leave java fern would look nice as opposed to the anubias, i also like the look of nesaea pedicellata...

HC, dwarf hairgrass, glosso would all look good in the foreground, a small anubia would look good nestle'd in that little dip in the wood between the rocks, HM sounds good for stems, or you could use micranthemum umbrosum, i wouldnt overcomplicate the background, maybe some crypt parva around...

you need one with a daylight bulb, Ikea do a magnifier lamp that has a daylight bulb with it.

i have always thought and read you shouldnt dose them on the same day its traces on the odd days and your macros on the even days, something about it reacting and creating something that the plants dont use im not sure though, im not a scientist like some on here hahaha, i dose KNO3 and KH2PO4...

yeah post up your lighting details cant hurt, what are you dosing? EI method?

theres 2 ways you could do it, you could either rip it all out and spread all the moss over the pebbles again but using more, or you could trim the longest bits of the moss to what level you would call acceptable, the first way you will get a nice tight carpet quicker, the second way is longer...

id give em another week to fully settle, see how they adapt, but it looks like you have good lighting judging by the reds in your plants. :)

how long have the plants been in the tank? also how long after light on were the pics taken, and its normal for the plants to get red at the tips where the light is strongest, looks like you have good lighting too.

hmm looks like your H. polysperma is straight as a pole, cabomba is a very delicate stem plant, have you got any strong flow going over it? that could be causing it to grow this way, other than that im not sure. :) lovely discus btw hehe.

hmm eheim classic 2260? but thats HUGE, also maybe a couple of fx5's or something? or just go down the sump route :)

just cut it in half and plant both ends in the substrate, the crown of the plant will develope roots and the root part of the plant will develope crowns(new shoots) but will look a bit ugly at first, if the plant divides into 2 stems remove one and plant it then cut the larger one in half and...

once it grows out it might get a bit leggy, so once you grow more moss id reattach it all again and so on till it starts behaving itself.

you should change your cannister once a week, if you are using the sachets, then bin them, read the nutrafin article pinned in this part of the forum, it has a much better recipe, i thought you were on a budget ;) as are we all, just connect both units via a T piece to the same ladder, you dont...

think i might just have to join ukaps lol.

i agree with you ;) but i would say a dual yeast setup would suffice, because pressurized is a big spend. 100 posts! woooooo lol.

a lily pipe outlets very close to the surface of the water, it creates a whirlpool effect, which is effective at aerating the water, with minimal surface disturbance, its also useful on planted tanks, because the whirlpool sucks in the proteins which gather on the surface of the water.

as this is a small-medium sized tank, id say pressurized wasnt vital (although id rather have pressurized over yeast on any sized tank.) if you change them twice a week you will have a stable level, not exactly 30ppm but stable enough for the plants to out compete the algae in your tank.

thats great, i dont think its your lighting, as you dont have too much, and the kelvin rating looks good, id say co2 was your weakness, you need to get it more stable, like i said either get another nutrafin or do a diy one and hook them both up to the same outlet, then change them bi-weekly.

id advise getting another nutrafin and changing them 1 on sunday and 1 on wednesday/thursday, also id look into EI dosing. :) your getting the ferts so why not, your gonna need traces though.

i am in love with that wood sam, what sizes of the redmoor are those? and have you heard anything about redmoor rotting at the base?

ive always heard you shouldnt keep axxies with fish, but ive never had any experience with them, if it was just a 55g specimen tank just for the axxies then i think they would love it, and you could keep more than one, id just read up on it and do some research before diving in, thats all i can...

my corydoras love to rummage inbetween my E. tennelus and lilaeopsis mauritiana :) they enjoy resting on the leaves and underneath the bigger E. tennelus specimens too.

id advise you read the guides to estimative index, easy to grow plants, and lighting that are pinned in this forum.

riccia would be a good choice, but mosses also work, echinodorus tennelus is one of the hardiest carpeting plants, along with dwarf saggitaria, but they need a bit more like good lighting and ferts to grow, id recommend mosses for your tank myself if you are a newb to planted, you cant go wrong...

sometimes the hair algae on the glass in my tank pearls, before i scrape it all off that is ;) but my GSA doesnt seem to do anything lol just sits there waiting for me to scrub it off, and it is well stubborn, takes a razor blade my plastic scraper wont touch it.

looks like somethings eating them to me... what is your stocking? could also be a lack of trace, what is your substrate too, because the majority of amazon swords get a lot of their nutrients from their root system.

wash them in tap water thoroughly, i wouldnt recommend using any treatments or chemicals on them.

just go down the nutrafin route if you arent gonna do propper pressurized because its not really worth getting those kinds of disposable cylinder sets, just link 2 or 3 nutrafins together and changes em on different days of the week. you can get bottles designed for co2 but a fire extinguisher...

you need a drop checker and 4dkh solution to tell you when your at 30ppm of co2 then you know what bubble rate is your optimum rate, theres not really any other way to work out the right bps,it varies from tank to tank. BAR is the pressure the cylinder is running at my fire extinguisher runs at...

Filter: JBL Cristal Profi 500 Year of first use: 2008 Condition purchased in: New Year use ended and reason/s: havent yet and i hope i never do likes: great design, sedement seperation chamber at the bottom of the filter, 3 huge baskets, great turnover, corner fastening and a really strong...

why not go down the fire extinguisher route? very easy and cheap for a propper pressurized setup :) just need fire extinguisher, regulator, solenoid, needle valve, bubble counter, diffuser, and some tubing. :) i found a regulator on ebay for about 46 quid dual gauge solenoid and needle valve, i...

id say a inline reactor is better than a diffuser, because it is outside of the tank, and it doesnt need cleaning as often, although i would use a diffuser over a in-tank reactor because they are just too ugly and bulky, IMO i would go for anything that you can put 'inline' with your external...

okay basically that single pressure one doesnt work to a fine enough level for a freshwater planted tank, you need one thats got a regulator, needle valve, and a solenoid is a bonus i got mine for 48 quid off ebay i went to the us one and ordered through hong kong as you save loads with the...

if you are using thread or fishing line riccia has a tendency to come loose over time, what you need is to buy like a showerpuff from superdrug you get about a metre of netting thats perfect for tieing down riccia make sure you dont use one from your bathroom though ;)

http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/...baby_whales.htm

ok basically set it all up filled up the tub bit with tank water, primed the tubes (no air bubbles or anything) and basically the syphon part of the tubing (going into the filter) is working fine, but the tubing coming out of the pump side wont pump into the tank, unless i put the end of the...

i use allinson easy bake fast bake quick bake whatever u wanna call it and it works great i use sugar to the first line and half a teaspoon and it works great.

if you leave it to grow long enough you will get long side chutes, you dont really want to cut off the main section of the top stem unless you need to shorten the plant, chop off the side chutes right at the base but so as you dont cut the main plant stem, if they have a root at the stem try and...

yeah and if not for that for the reason they do different collections and numbers of floating plants.