Yet Another Cycling Thread

The water from the main tank contains no useful bacteria. They grow bound to surfaces and the filter media is where the vast majority live. There will be a very few bacteria on the ornaments, but not nearly enough to deal with the waste from the fish in the QT.

That's not entirely accurate.

There will be, compared to tap water, a multitude of nitrifying bacteria in a mature tank's water. Not enough to immediately cycle a tank obviously, but none the less a great starting point.

And any solid surface you can transfer from a mature tank to the new tank will always help, whether that be plants, ornaments etc.
 
Scouse Lee mentioned using the small tank as a QT. Most people don't run a QT full time, they just set it up when they need it, so I wanted to make sure he was aware you can't just use water or an ornament from a cycled tank and put fish straight in.
But yes, using water from a cycled tank may help slightly when starting to cycle a new tank. Or to be precise, when starting to cycle a new filter.

Sue
 
The filter in the quarantine tank is built into the hood so I couldn't transfer it to another tank.

Anyway I've just tested the 54L tank & the Ammonia seems to have dropped slightly,(I've recorded it at 1.5ppm), but so has the Nitrite, it's definitely at 0.0ppm.

Confused? I am lol
 
I believe that the dgH has a direct bearing on the buffering capability of the water? Thats why I thought that it would be worthwhile measuring the hardness of your water, particularly as it is a private supply - perhaps it could help explain the pH instability? Just a thought.

Another thought; I have river pebbles in my tank (Unipac) which I assume are therefore fit for the purpose; can you be sure that yours are having no effect on pH? Or is it that all river stone is OK to use?
 
I believe that the dgH has a direct bearing on the buffering capability of the water? Thats why I thought that it would be worthwhile measuring the hardness of your water, particularly as it is a private supply - perhaps it could help explain the pH instability? Just a thought.

Another thought; I have river pebbles in my tank (Unipac) which I assume are therefore fit for the purpose; can you be sure that yours are having no effect on pH? Or is it that all river stone is OK to use?
I will test the hardness for curiosities sake tbh & let you know the results. Can't be sure about the rocks although they are in the 4ft tank which has only been going for a few days so I'm not worried about the results from that one yet.
 
Ok left a tube of tap water for 24 hours & just tested the pH..............7.6 just like in the tanks,(it was 6.6 when I tested straight from the tap). Went to a LFS today & asked for some advice, the guy was very helpful and told me that they cycle their tanks using a product called Pure Aquarium which some of you may be aware are small clear balls of bacteria, he reckons the tank should be ready for a few fish in a week or so. Anyway I bought some & have put a few in each according to the recommendations, anyone have any experience of these things.
Cheers
Lee
 
54L Tank

24/05/12 - Ammonia 1.5ppm/Nitrite 0.0ppm
25/05/12 - Ammonia 1.5ppm (added 7 pure aqua balls after test)
26/05/12 - Ammonia 2.0ppm
27/05/12 - Ammonia 2.0ppm/Nitrite 0.0ppm

145L Tank

24/05/12 - Ammonia 5.0ppm
25/05/12 - Ammonia 4.0ppm (added 15 pure aqua balls after test)
27/05/12 - Ammonia 4.0ppm

I have to say I'm getting very despondent now with the small tank & I'm having thoughts about re-filling with mains water,(we have access to an outside tap), or getting a few hardy fish & seeing what happens, it's just over 3 weeks now since we put water in it.
 
I wouldn't get any fish yet. It doesn't matter to the bacteria (or lack of them) where the ammonia comes from, fish or a bottle. If they aren't growing using a bottle of ammonia, they won't grow with fish either. Getting fish will just mean you'll be stuck doing lots of water changes for ages.

It looks as though the Pure Aquarium isn't working - or if it does work, it's taking a long time to start. Did you ask the shop if they'd give you any of their media? Or do you know anyone else who has a tank? Even a tiny bit of cycled medium (sponge, ceramic noodles etc) would help seed your filter. Or failing that, I'd try the outside tap just in case that would help.
 
My LFS vacuumed up some gunk from his gravel...two days later my NH3 dropped sharply; mature media of any kind definitely works, even if its just sub-gravel muck (thats been there a few weeks)!
 
I did ask the LFS for some media but the guy said he didn't have any, only put the aqua balls in 3 nights ago & he said they'd take about a week. TBH I don't know what to do for the best, I can't even be bothered to do any tests tonight, I know it probably looks like I'm giving up a bit too easy but it's just getting on top of me atm, got the wife & kids screaming for fish lol.
 
as essjay says, putting in fish will create a LOT of work for you if you want to keep them alive...right now patience is your best friend! I was lucky with my cycle; no wife to push for fish, and my kids old enough to just look, yawn, and move on!

No experience with any of these 'wonder additives' so can't comment, all I know is that with ammonia in the tank at 3-4ppm, temp 30C, pH at 7.8-8, plenty of aeration and dirty water added on day 12, the ammonia dropped after 14 days.

I think that by adding stuff (other than mature media) you can alter or even stall the process so its best to just leave it to work by itself...just my opinion! Its probably worth giving these aqua balls a week then if thats the LFS advice; keep a check on pH and use bicarb to keep it up around 7.8-8 if you have to, don't add anything else and wait for the ammonia to zero! Put up on the forum where you are and someone nearby may be able to give you mature media, that really is the way to kick-start your cycle OK? As I mentioned all I added was dirty water to the inlet pipe of the filter, it doesn't have to be a bit of filter etc...my LFS couldn't give me filter sponge or ceramic tubes or anything because they didn't use it. I asked for any old c##p and he just syphoned up about 2 litres of sub-gravel gunk out of an old tank; it seemed to do the trick! There must be someone local to you who can hand you some c##p!

Don't give up!!!! Believe me, it IS worth the wait, as the presence of hundreds of people here confirms!
 
Thanks for that JDs4me it's what I needed tbh, someone telling me that it WILL sort itself out somehow as I just can't see anything happening atm. I'm near Holsworthy on the Devon/Cornwall border.
 
Hi guys, a few updates to ponder on

54L Tank
29/05/12(22:10) - ammonia 2.0ppm/nitrite 0.0ppm
30/05/12(11:10) - nitrite 0.0ppm
01/06/12(13:00) - ammonia 2.0ppm/nitrite 0.0ppm/nitrate 0.0pm
03/06/12(09:45) - ammonia 2.0ppm/nitrite 0.25ppm (50% water change carried out)
03/06/12(21:20) - ammonia 1.5ppm/nitrite 0.25ppm/nitrate 5.0ppm
04/06/12(10:00) - nitrite 1.0ppm/nitrate 5.0ppm (75% water change carried out & filter washed in dirty water)
04/06/12(21:00) - ammonia 0.25ppm/nitrite 0.25ppm/nitrate 20ppm
05/06/12(11:30) - ammonia 0.0ppm/nitrite 0.50ppm/nitrate 20ppm (30% water change carried out)

145L Tank
29/06/12(22:30) - ammonia 4.0ppm/nitrite 0.0ppm
30/05/12(21:00) - nitrate 5.0ppm
02/06/12(19:00) - ammonia 4.0ppm/nitrite 3-4ppm/nitrate 20ppm (75% water change)
03/06/12(09:00) - nitrite 3.0ppm (50% water change)
03/06/12(20:00) - nitrite 2.0ppm/nitrate 20+ppm (50% water change & washed filter in dirty water)
04/06/12(09:00) - nitrite 3.0ppm/nitrate 20+ppm (75% water change)
04/06/12(21:30) - ammonia 0.0ppm/nitrite 0.50ppm/nitrate 20+ppm
05/06/12(10:15) - ammonia 0.25ppm/nitrite 0.50ppm

I find the API test kit colour chart a bit confusing tbh, especially the ammonia & nitrite readings for 0.25 - 1.0ppm as most times the colour in the tube is nothing like those shown on the chart but not dark enough to be any higher, the nitrate colours for 10ppm & 20ppm look virtually identical as well.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top