Woke Up To Corydoras Trilineatus Eggs

[EddyBearr]

As the title says, I woke up to Corydoras Trilineatus eggs.

There are still 13+ in the main aquarium, and I have taken about 50 out.

The 50 are in a half-gallon container(about 9 inches long by 4 inches wide) with some of the tank water, circulating somewhat-heavily with a bubble.

I got them out with a plastic card and/or my fingers.

I squished 3, and from what I saw in the tank, another 2 had chunks hanging off the egg (or fungus, but it's been 3 hours so I doubt that,) and another one was seemed to be dented (I have not inspected all of them.)

There were two corydoras females, and almost all of the eggs are fertilized. One female looks like she has dropped all her eggs (she has an indent where her bulge used to be) and the other is still a little plump. They were both obviously female before spawning, but were not absurdly massive. The corydoras are relatively large, about 5-6 centimeters.

Assuming my water parameters are average/doing fine, is there anything else I should do?

I'd be willing to buy RO water later today if necessary.

I will try to post the parameters soon.

Thanks for any help and information!

 

[Harlequins]

Seems has though you got it all covered - just removed any furry or white eggs once you spot them... Tri eggs normally take 5-6 days dependant on temperature


Good luck with them

 

[iownupkr66]

great news on spawing good luck

 

[EddyBearr]

Seems has though you got it all covered - just removed any furry or white eggs once you spot them... Tri eggs normally take 5-6 days dependant on temperature


Good luck with them

Will do! However, I have to ask: How do I differentiate between a fertilized egg, and an unfertilized egg? Is it just going to be brown for fertilized, white for unfertilized? Will the difference be massive or small? As it is now, I think I have some white eggs, but when I look at certain angles, they appear brown.

 

[thereverendturtle]

They'll be opaque white. One thing that will help to keep the fungus from spreading to fertile eggs, is few drops of Methylene blue.

Oh, and change most of the water each day, with water from the main tank.

 

[Harlequins]

Unfertislised eggs will go solid white colour, fertile eggs look beige/creamy white in colour with a dot in the middle....has the egg matures they turn a deep brown colour

 

[iownupkr66]

+1

 

[EddyBearr]

Well, yesterday I took a little eyedropper with a larger hole to suck up the eggs and give them a slight "rinsing," as when I got my eggs from my main tank, I was stupid and siphoned some eggs that fell into the sand, which resulted in a lot of debris in the hatchery, making the eggs get the debris to stick to them. I also wanted to get a count of the eggs. I found 150 fertile eggs, and 2 unfertile eggs. I accidentally dropped 1 fertile egg, so 149.

Today, I gave them a look (after having a busy yesterday.) I found some fungus on some of the eggs, but what is concerning me, is that because of the position of the air pump, the eggs keep clumping together. Because of that, and because some of them had fungus, I removed about 35 eggs from the tank. I assume that about 15 of these have visible fungus, but all the others were in direct contact with the fungus (hence why I took them out as well.) I will try to separate the definite fungus-eggs and the possibly okay eggs, and wait for a reply as to what I should do. I have replaced the water in the main tank, and I'm going to see if I can add a little more current in there with another air pump.

The eggs are sitting on the bottom of the container, if that changes anything, and they end up settling, despite the air pump.

Thanks for all the help so far! I'll upload some videos of the fiasco to youtube if any of you are interested in seeing them.

A final question: Is there anything I can put in there to prevent fungus besides methylene blue? Perhaps Melafix, Pimafix, or something? I haven't been able to find any methylene blue.

 

[EddyBearr]

About 80%+ of the eggs have gotten fungus, despite daily water changes. I honestly think the bubbler is ruining it for me. It keeps making them clump together and it's making the fungus debris circulate all over the container. I haven't been able to find any methylene blue, though I've searched like 6 fish stores.

The eggs have been moved into their own containers now, separated and without bubblers.

Edit: I've moved them all into a tiny container and put a bubbler in it. I have 16 eggs in there. 4 eggs were sketchy and are in their own containers. If I can get even 5-7 hatches form this, I'll be moderately satisfied. Lol. I know next time that the container I had was too big (so the bubbler ended up making all the eggs settled in their own personal position.) The container is a pet-store betta container with a hole in the top, so the bubbler fits in that hole perfectly. If this turns out successfully, I'll start using these for all the eggs I get for all fish from now on.

 

[iownupkr66]

 

[Harlequins]

TBH you dont need to do water changes on the eggs, as long has they have good circulation around them they should be ok...

I normally bring on my eggs using the net method and having the airstone flowing underneath the net with good results

 

[EddyBearr]

TBH you dont need to do water changes on the eggs, as long has they have good circulation around them they should be ok...

I normally bring on my eggs using the net method and having the airstone flowing underneath the net with good results

I wouldn't think so,but I was hoping that it would help reduce the amount of fungus floating around, as well as other debris.

A breeding net in the main tank? I'd consider trying that.

Do you get a decent hatch rate with that? I've heard that most people with a container and bubbler lose at least 50% of the eggs, with a slight decrease in losses with some methylene blue, but I've heard of 95% hatch rate with a bubbler + breeding net. I'm wondering whether it would be better to use a very heavily circulated container/bubbler, or a breeding net.

Also, would it be a bad thing if the eggs keep moving around in the container with the bubbler, due to the current, or is that fine? I'm concerned it would damage the fry or eggs. This is their fifth day, and they all appear to be free of fungus. A couple days ago, you could see something moving in the eggs, so they should be hatching. As of this post being made, I harvested them a little over 100 hours ago. My basement is around 74° F, or 23° C. Should I turn off the bubbler?

 

[Harlequins]

My hatch rate using a net & airstone was 99% , with an occasional unhatched egg - but most did hatch.

Have your tri eggs darkened yet? - usually by the 5th day they go dark... then normally hatch 24-48hrs later. - i did find with my tri's eggs they took longer then any other corys to hatch

Leave the bubbler on - have you a valve on there where you can turn it down a bit??

 

[EddyBearr]

My hatch rate using a net & airstone was 99% , with an occasional unhatched egg - but most did hatch.

Have your tri eggs darkened yet? - usually by the 5th day they go dark... then normally hatch 24-48hrs later. - i did find with my tri's eggs they took longer then any other corys to hatch

Leave the bubbler on - have you a valve on there where you can turn it down a bit??

They're not really much darker than they were a few days ago, however I'm starting to see a very clear black dot (perhaps 2 or 3) inside the eggs.

I don't have a valve, but I can try putting a zip tie around the tube to slow the flow.

 

[Harlequins]

Sounds has though they're doing ok