Whoop Whoop

[BigbruiserAl]

Also many suggest that you go to 5ppm for the first dose and then up to 3ppm for every consecutive dose, but opinions range!

Alot of us inc me advise 4ppm for the stage 1 on the cycle and then down to 2-3ppm for stage 2ppm then back up to 4ppm for the last and final stage 3

 

[DJNut]

I managed 4ppm with food, I'm currently dosing to 2ppm, the minute the nitrites sod off I'll up it to 4ppm and time it to zero, once that is 12 hrs, massive water change then in go the fish. What y'all think?

 

[DJNut]

Hi all.

My ammonia was dropping to almost zero from 4ppm a day, but Nitrites weren't coming down, then finally the Trites dropped to zero last night but the ammonia only dropped to 3ppm. Ph is stable at 7.4, Trates are reaching top end of the scale.

Anyone else had similar experiences?

Thanks
Dave

 

[BigbruiserAl]

If your Nitates are top end of the API scale do a water change before you next dose ammonia

 

[DJNut]

If your Nitates are top end of the API scale do a water change before you next dose ammonia

Thanks BigbruiserAl

 

[OldMan47]

If you measured 290 litres, use that number. We can all doubt that we would expect that number, but you are the one who really knows what your tank holds. The no kidding water volume is always what you use in the calculator to get things right. My big tank is rated at 120 gallons but it only took me 100 gallons of water to fill it with the substrate in place. There is no way I will use anything but 100 gallons when calculating things like disease treatments. That is the real world value of the water in my tank.