What to make of these readings?

[enricosonic]

I'm in the midst of a fish-less cycle, ammonia is between 2.0-4.0 ppm, nitrite is somewhere between 2.0 ppm and 5.0 as well. What I can't ascertain is my pH reading. I have Seachem "pH alert" and "ammonia alert" in-tank dangling gauges that supposedly give constant readouts, the latter of which has been proven quite inaccurate. It reads O ppm on ammonia no matter what. Because that reading is so far off, I doubt the pH alert's level of accuracy (it reads about 6.8-7).

So here's my API master kit readings on pH. Each time I've tested, I cannot ascertain the result. pH on left and high range pH on the right correspond literally not at all with color chart.

 

[Avel1896]

Hey
I don't much like Api. But both seem true yellow, the left being very slightly brighter than the right, so acidic pH

 

[enricosonic]

Ok - what do you use for pH testing BTW? I'm a little confused because Seattle tap water supposedly has a range of 7.2-8.2.

 

[Avel1896]

I use both a pH-meter and JBL© drop test pH 6 to 7.6
How about hardness and alkalinity ?

 

[enricosonic]

Still trying to get a reliable alkalinity reading, water is very soft however.

 

[Sgooosh]

Hey
I don't much like Api. But both seem true yellow, the left being very slightly brighter than the right, so acidic pH

the api drip tests are really good
the chemichals are also pretty good
all the paper strip tests are not super accurate

Still trying to get a reliable alkalinity reading, water is very soft however.

go to LFS, not worth it buying a drop test unless you are doing a specific type of tank that needs good levels

 

[Byron]

There may not be quite so much variance here as you think. First on the pH, never use the normal range and high range together, they will always be different. The normal range clearly shows acidic water with a pH of 6 (or could be lower), so the high range is useless here. [If the normal range indicated 7.6, it would be worth using the high range because in that situation the pH could be above 7.6 so the high range would be the test to use going forward, b ut here with these acidic readings it is just the normal range test.]

As for Seattle pH 7.2-8, this is likely because they are adding something. I have to deal with this up in Vancouver. It is likely something like soda ash which is temporary, so in the aquarium the pH will rise at the water change but lower back down according to the GH/KH. Each tank can be unique. Check the website of the water authority and see what or if they add "x".

To the ammonia...if the pH is below 7, then "ammonia" will largely be ammonium. The ammonia alert may be detecting ammonium and thus not indicating ammonia--I don't know how these work, just a thought. I know the API liquid test and most similar hobby tests do not distinguish between ammonia and ammonium, but this alert may.

 

[enricosonic]

Thanks Byron. I did the regular pH test first, got that acidic reading of 6.0-ish, then figured I must be in the higher range so that was reason for both tests done. I'll look into the water authority. I've learned, probably from your posts about sub-7 pH taking ammonia somewhat out of the equation as its mainly ammonium. So with my pH possibly being truly this acidic, my API ammonia reading is not terribly valuable. I should still see a drop in nitrite though, before adding fish, should I not?

 

[Essjay]

Seachem's website does say that the ammonia alert tests free ammonia, so it does not pick up ammonium. It also says

This product is not recommended for use at acid pH

presumably because at acid pH there is no free ammonia, only ammonium.

Test kits test for total ammonia, that's ammonia and ammonium combined. With acid pH, the liquid tester will give a truer reading than the alert.

 

[Avel1896]

the api drip tests are really good
the chemichals are also pretty good
all the paper strip tests are not super accurate

I'm not saying they are good or bad. Just I prefer something else.

 

[Byron]

Thanks Byron. I did the regular pH test first, got that acidic reading of 6.0-ish, then figured I must be in the higher range so that was reason for both tests done. I'll look into the water authority. I've learned, probably from your posts about sub-7 pH taking ammonia somewhat out of the equation as its mainly ammonium. So with my pH possibly being truly this acidic, my API ammonia reading is not terribly valuable. I should still see a drop in nitrite though, before adding fish, should I not?

Yes. Nitrite must be zero (for several days to be safe).

@Essjay has confirmed what I thought might be the case with the alert.