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What are the best fish medications out right now to have on hand?

Yohance1130

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I'm just wondering what are the best fish medications in your opinion's that everyone should have on hand no matter if your fish are sick or not.

I am currently searching for a list of medications to add to my fish room that I will always have on hand no matter the situation.

Also when suggesting the medications I would like if you could also mention if they will be ok for scaleless fish and also if any specific species of fish have issues with the medication.

Thanks!
 
I can't see as there is any need to keep them on-hand personally. Most if not all of these products have a shelf life and maybe I'm just lucky but in all my years of fish keeping I can't recall one instance of needing to medicate one of my fish. To me it'd just be a waste if they sat there never needing to be used. My advice would be to research which medications work best of which ailments so in the event you do need to medicate you know which one to buy.
 
I'm just wondering what are the best fish medications in your opinion's that everyone should have on hand no matter if your fish are sick or not.

I am currently searching for a list of medications to add to my fish room that I will always have on hand no matter the situation.

Also when suggesting the medications I would like if you could also mention if they will be ok for scaleless fish and also if any specific species of fish have issues with the medication.

Thanks!
i agree with what @StandbySetting said. Most of the time you never need to use medication. A lot of the time they can do more harm than good. However, Aquarium salt is a good thing to have on hand.
 
This sort of question pops up every few months. All you need is salt and water conditioner. A lot of fish health issues can be treated with salt and clean water. If you quarantine all new fish, plants, shrimp & snails, you shouldn't need to treat the main display tanks.

Basic first aid for sick fish is:
1. test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH
2. clean the glass.
3. do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the problem is identified.
4. clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks.
5. increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen in the water.
6. take pictures and video of fish and post them on the forum asking for help.

If there is a water quality issue causing the problem, then big daily water changes and gravel cleaning (do it for a week) will usually fix the problem.

Cleaning the filter will also help.

If the fish have fungus, fin rot, minor bacterial or some external protozoan infections, add 2 heaped tablespoons of rock salt (aka aquarium or pool salt) for every 20 litres of water. Keep salt in the tank for 2-4 weeks.

If you have to have a medication, buy a deworming medication and deworm all your tanks at the same time, and then deworm any new fish you get while they are in quarantine.
 
What-Salt-Bae-Meme.jpg


All you need
 
I can't see as there is any need to keep them on-hand personally. Most if not all of these products have a shelf life and maybe I'm just lucky but in all my years of fish keeping I can't recall one instance of needing to medicate one of my fish. To me it'd just be a waste if they sat there never needing to be used. My advice would be to research which medications work best of which ailments so in the event you do need to medicate you know which one to buy.
The only issue is that in case of an emergency if a fish does get sick in my aquarium and I have tried everything and I have to resort to medication

because of me not having a car and being more busy with school and sports most of the time I would not be able to get the medications I need in time.

Which is why I would rather just have some already in my fish room so that I don't have to worry about the issue of getting the medication in such a crucial amount of time.

I am aware I might not have to ever use them but in the case I do if I have them on hand already I don't have to be rushing to find a medication.
 
This sort of question pops up every few months. All you need is salt and water conditioner. A lot of fish health issues can be treated with salt and clean water. If you quarantine all new fish, plants, shrimp & snails, you shouldn't need to treat the main display tanks.

Basic first aid for sick fish is:
1. test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH
2. clean the glass.
3. do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the problem is identified.
4. clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks.
5. increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen in the water.
6. take pictures and video of fish and post them on the forum asking for help.

If there is a water quality issue causing the problem, then big daily water changes and gravel cleaning (do it for a week) will usually fix the problem.

Cleaning the filter will also help.

If the fish have fungus, fin rot, minor bacterial or some external protozoan infections, add 2 heaped tablespoons of rock salt (aka aquarium or pool salt) for every 20 litres of water. Keep salt in the tank for 2-4 weeks.

If you have to have a medication, buy a deworming medication and deworm all your tanks at the same time, and then deworm any new fish you get while they are in quarantine.
Which deworming medication would you recommend in case I will ever need to use one?

Thanks for your input!
 
It is very difficult, and frankly for most aquarists impossible, to accurately diagnose disease in fish. Experience such as @Colin_T has from his work in a fish store is invaluable, but most of us have no where near that degree of knowledge on disease, for much of which there may even be no discernable external sign until the fish just dies. And as has been mentioned, most medications and antibiotics have a shelf life and it is not great. And using a preparation that is not the safest and most effective for the specific issue is more harm than good, and fish frequently do die as a result. I have been there.

Maintaining good water suited to the fish and with good maintenance, having the right combination of species, and avoiding other stress as well as the severe stress from the afore-mentioned, is far better--prevention not cure.
 
The only issue is that in case of an emergency if a fish does get sick in my aquarium and I have tried everything and I have to resort to medication
Most fish health issues are caused by poor water quality and a dirty tank & filter. Big daily water changes, gravel cleaning, and cleaning the filter, will often fix them. At the very least big water changes will dilute disease organisms and parasites in the water and buy you time to get medication.

--------------------
SALT
Using Salt to Treat Fish Health Issues.
For some fish diseases you can use salt (sodium chloride) to treat the ailment rather than using a chemical based medication. Salt is relatively safe and is regularly used in the aquaculture industry to treat food fish for diseases. Salt has been successfully used to treat minor fungal and bacterial infections, as well as a number of external protozoan infections. Salt alone will not treat whitespot (Ichthyophthirius) or Velvet (Oodinium) but will treat most other types of protozoan infections in freshwater fishes.

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 
Which deworming medication would you recommend in case I will ever need to use one?
Flubendazole if you can get it, otherwise Levamisole. However, deworming medications and all medications should be kept cool and dark to maximise their shelf life.
 
Anyways...
Back in the 80s, fish meds were a really big 'thing' and many of us had a well-stocked Meds Cupboard, for 'Just In Case'.
In the end up, I used very, very little of it and when I packed everything away, I found that all had passed its sell-by date anyway.

As with many who have already responded, I now only have API Aquarium Salt and an Interpet Water Conditioner.

If one of my fish gets an illness and actually does require some real chemical medication, (assuming that I've been able to reliably diagnose the problem), then I'll buy the correct medication required.
 

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