Use Of Ammonia/nitrite Removers During Cylce

[Tigerfish66]

Hi All.
 
New to this forum and have read up on the nitro cycle and cycling both fishless and fish in. Have also perused the forums a bit.
 
I've been out of the hobby for a few years and getting back in because my 10 year old wanted to set up a tank. I dusted off an old 12g Eclipse and set it up a few weeks ago. I've always used Prime, but discovered Seachem's Stability, which claims you can cycle fish-in with this product. I thought "Wow", technology had advanced so much you could cycle a tank in a few days...

 
Anyways, used product as directed, and about 4 days in added a few community fish (3 mollies and a red tail shark). Started testing water and doing partial water changes to address low levels of ammonia and nitrites (.25/.25). Nitrates were at 40ppm. Continued to check every other day, and of course levels have gone up. 
 
I've done a number of water changes, continuing to add prime and stability, and due to a nitrite spike, bought some Nitra-Zorb, which supposedly removes nitrites and nitrates.
 
And a thought occurred to me....prime neutralizes ammonia, and nitra-zorb eliminates nitrites and nitrates...a totally chemical way of maintaining water parameters, but which also seems counter to the whole process of establishing a healthy biological environment.
 
So what are your thoughts, is it best to let the process run it's course without additives? And do filter media such as nitr-zorb, zeo-carb etc disrupt the process?
 
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

[noobgamers]

nitrate remover will work but nitrite and ammonia will tkae it out before th ebacteria can breed to dela with it so it will stop the cycle nitrate of course dosent do that. it can be done having a artificaly maintainded mehtod of maintaining it but it is exspensive and takes away from keeping a animal in a natural enviroment

 

[Ninjouzata]

I see no reason to use these products when cycling the tank without fish and then doing regular maintenance is all you need to do. I would take all those fish back ASAP and continue with a fish-less cycle.
None of them are suitable for that sized tank. The mollies need around a 30g and the RTS needs a 55g.

 

[Tigerfish66]

noobgamers, thank you. If I am understanding you correctly, I don't need artificial water conditioners if I want to establish a good biological environment for the fish.
 
Ninjouzata, thanks for the thoughts. I have a 60g cycling fishless that can house the fish when they reach max size, but these guys are little. I'd like to keep them and correct the water parameters, which is what I was trying to do with the added media/conditioners. So if I understand you correctly, I should have no ammonia removers in the filter media while cycling the tank. So I should monitor water conditions and continue water changes until parameters are where they should be?
 
Thanks again.

 

[Xzavier247]

IMO, You need to let the nitrogen cycle run its course. No chemicals no fish, Just stable water changes, never touch the filter media when cycling. 
SO you have two tanks that are not cycled? oh boy. I recommend water changes out the ying yang until the peaking drops. Nitra zorb is just a waste of money. Prime however should really be used as a water conditioner. Not an amonia remover although it is.

 

[Tigerfish66]

Thank you Xzavier247. I am actually cycling 3 tanks (2 are fishless, a 20g and 60g). I set up the 12g Eclipse with the idea of using Seachem's Stability to cycle fish-in due to their instructions. In any event. I have been doing water changes and added salt per the article by TwoTankAmin, to attempt to neutralize the effects of nitirites on the fish.
 
I know the fishless cycle is the preference here and the first recommendation by the experienced aquarists, so I appreciate the tips on my current situation, it is very helpful. Thank you.

 

[Xzavier247]

Every body seems to feel "hurt" by the initial... NO YOU CANT ADD FISH!!!! But just keep doing the water changes and you'll be fine. But if you are doing a salt water tank or even with a more expensive species of fish then you might want to reconsider lol 

 

[TwoTankAmin]

You have to dechlorinate water, even when cycling. While chlorine being detoxified is simple, chloramines are another issue, When chloramine is detoxified, it is broken down into its two components- chlorine and ammonia. The dechlor detoxes the chlorine but leaves the ammonia. For this reason many dechlors also contain and ammonia detoxifier.
 
Therefore, during a cycle it is important to dose such products at their normal level. never overdose. Even though they will still slow a cycle somewhat, despite claims to the contrary, the impact will be minimal. prime, for example, dissipates in about 24 hours and the remaining ammonia will be released. Different products use different methods to detoxify ammonia and some will last in the water longer than prime. So it is important to read the information for your product to make sure you understand how it deals with the ammonia part of things.
 
As much as I dislike water changes during a cycle, I dislike chemicals for dealing with these things even more. I prefer any number of alternatives, including water changes over chemicals being used for anything beyond buying some hours or a day to implement a better solution.
 
But the articles on how to deal with a fish in cycle gone wild are now posted on the site, if you have not seen them yet, take  look. They are pinned in this sub-forum.