Fishless Cycling Advice

[Fishoftheday]

What is the calculation to get my net nitrate number?

 

[Essjay]

Ignore the nitrate level, you don't need it during cycling. Ammonia and nitrite are the important ones as the tank is only cycled when they are at zero 24 hours after adding ammonia. The amount of nitrate does not matter. The fishless cycling method on here does not mention testing for nitrate, only ammonia and nitrite.

Nitrate is important when there are fish in the tank as it needs to be kept as low as possible, preferably under 20 ppm.

 

[MaloK]

No, the production of nitrate indicates that the bacteria that deals with nitrite are multiplying or not.

Excluding plants and other by process. At any stages of the cycle, if no nitrate is produced, nitrite are not really being processed and will build up if no other exits are available.

In a fishless cycle you can have situations where nitrite is converted faster to nitrate than ammonia to nitrite. And it result in nearly direct nitrate rise.

You could easily wait for ever that nitrite rises while Nitrate is already building severe level.

At some point... Checking for nitrate during the end of a fishless cycle is in my opinion the only way to see that you are completing the loop.

I'm far from a chemist, but a good mathematician. And basic comparison made me consider 2 points.

Both are very different critters. And the major factor in their development are dead pan water chemistry that is out of your control at least 50% of the time.

It could go from both have difficulties, to both thrives at the same time. But most of the time it's one or the other. But once established...

 

[Bamf Comics]

You appear to have bacteria present. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Nitrate Test kit, according to the manufacturer and my own personnel experiences shows you have bacteria present producing nitrate. Give the tank a large water change and get your first batch of fish into it that's your goal. Some salt would easily help to eliminate any adverse affects from nitrite if you get a spike back at all. The amount needed is so small many basic conditioners by themselves provide enough that it shouldn't be a problem if you believe them. If you don't add some extra. You directly control the ammonia production so feed lightly to start and then increase the size and/or frequency of feeding as the tests show the tank can handle it. You can always give the tank a large water change and stop feeding for a day or three if needed.