Underwurldes - Diy Auto Top Off Project

PS, is there anything else you want it do? I was thinging overflow protection. How would you make it failsafe? (an overflow pipe is the obvious one).

These are the things I was really hoping to do:
  • Green LED to show its powered on and the level is good
  • Amber LED for when its topping up
  • Flashing Red LED if one of the level switches is stuck on (maybe sound a piezo or something to warn and kill the 240v pump??)
  • For safety - what happens if the relay fails short circuit, an inline 3a fuse on the 240v or summin
Nice to Have:
  • Transformer so I only have to plug 1 kettle lead into (240ac to 12dc by transformer and bridge)
Thanks loads for the help - its really appreciated!! :good:
 
The simpler version:

DIYAutoTopOrr.jpg


Andy
 
Andy, now I have to admit - that is pretty amazing mate!!!

Would you be able to export to a larger size, I'm looking over it to get the parts ordered but cannot see what some of them are and I'll then get it dropped into a stripboard layout

I think you have just built the most comprehensive DIY circuit on the web for auto top offs!!! :hey:

Thanks loads
 
Photobucket truncates the image size to 1MB (even though it is compressed JPG), hence the crappy image - I was hoping it was good enogh (note - click on it's banner to enlarge - have you tried that? Apologies for the obviousness).

So, PM me your e-mail addy, & I'll send you the original.

The cct is far too simple. If done 'properly' I'd have used a PIC. Note, some of the things you wanted are not there:

1) Your 'disable' switch, with 'disabled' LED. (For now, just turn it off).
2) The warning alarm if relay gets welded shut + flashing LED + Alarm.

The circuit can be easily 'improved' to include those items, but for now I was keeping it simple - build that circuit if you want to & test to see if at least the basic operational theory works - if it does then we can 'improve' with items 1) and 2) if you want.

If your're in the process of ordering bits, you may want the extra parts now, so if that's on your mind, ask me to provide the improved version. Mind you, RS / Farnell are pretty good postage wise, so two orders will make no difference to one large one.

Andy

PS be CAREFUL with the mains - take away any surround tracks on the strip board & insulate the mains area underneath - the number of times I've picked up live mains circuits, forgetting the live tracking below - ouch!

Also, bear in mind this is completely off the top of my head, untested etc. expect some tinkering!
 
Andy,

PM sent.... Could you send me the advanced circuit - would be good to get the parts ordered for the alarm/flashing LED stuff. I agree though, lets get the basic tried and tested then throw in the nice features!

Tinkering is great, thats the part I look forward to!!

Who do you rate best on quality/price, RS, Farnell or Maplins?

Cheers
 
I'll think about updating the design then.


Suppliers are much of a muchness. Good thing about Maplins is that they are geared to the hobbyist - and they have walk in shops. If not, no beef between RS / Farnell if ordering via snail mail. RS website is far superior to the confusion that is the Farnell one.

Andy
 
Quicky overview then:

Power Supply
Mains in, isolation transformer to 15V AC, rectified and smoothed using 1000uF to about 20V D.C with loads of ripple, linear regulated down to a nice smooth 12V DC using standard LM7812, decoupled using 10uF – probably expect to get up to 1 Amp from this supply depending largely on the transformer used and heatsinking on the Linear Reg. Indication of system live when ‘On / Off’ switch is on via Red LED ‘Power On’.

Low water detect monostable
The first stage centres around NE555 Timer IC1: The timer is arranged as a mono-stable whose output at pin 3 goes high for a period of time determined by ‘C’ and ‘R’ when a low going trigger pulse is seen at pin 2. I have now made the R variable using a 1 Mohm pot, VR1 and the time the pump is on for can be adjusted from 1.1 secs to 110 secs. I was not sure of the state of the float switch, so if I have it wrong, cut the wire ‘X’d and use the inverter configured IC2B which should now be connected to pin 2 instead (if float switch OK, do not connect it).

When the output at pin 3 goes high, the mains relay comes on as will the pump. The two diodes are used to protect the circuitry from back EMF and erratic triggering. Indication that the pump is on is shown by Amber LED ‘Topping Up’.

System Disable
If IC1 is held in reset via RST pin 4, the NE555 monostable connected output should be held off. To this end the ‘Enable / Disable’ switch will either pull RST high (‘E’) or allow the upper 1K resistor to pull it low when in the ‘D’ position, thus illuminating the ‘Disabled’ LED via the lower resistor.

System Fault Detection
The relay used to drive the pump is DPST – the two poles are mechanically linked. If the pole that drives the relay were to become welded shut in a failure condition of the relay, then the other pole should also close. This can be used to our advantage: The second pole is therefore used to monitor the pole driving the pump motor. With the use a 1K pull up resistor, the signal ‘Status’ is created. It is now a simple question of logic to determine system failure if used with the ‘Control’ signal. Truth table is therefore:

If the relay is closed (the pump pumping water) then ‘status’ is logic ‘0’, under normal circumstances, this can only happen if ‘Control’ is at logic ‘1’. Therefore if the ‘status’ signal is ‘0’ AND the control signal is ‘0’ (off) then things are amiss. This is the truth table for a NOR gate (IC2):

S C | Alarm on = ‘1’
0 0 | 1
0 1 | 0
1 0 | 0
1 1 | 0

Alarm Output
The alarm circuit is centred around NE555 timer IC3 arranged as a 2Hz astable circuit (with a 66% duty cycle). It is normally held off, or in reset by Alarm signal from IC2D pin 13. When a fault is detected, the astable is taken out of reset and should start oscillating, indicated by Red LED flashing. Output is also provided for by use of an alarm output at CON2.

Notes
NE555 timers is I think capable of driving a 200mA (0.2A) load. Therefore, the mains relay should take no more than this less the current needed to drive the Amber ‘Topping Up’ LED, i.e.180mA (0.18A). Ideally I’d choose a 100mA rated Main relay coil.

Same applies for the Alarm output – use an alarm that takes no more than 180mA, ideally 100mA.

-----------

Hope this bloody works now!

Andy
 
Wow, even my brain hurts :D

Hey Andy, kinda OT but what software do you use to draw your circuits?
 
Andy, Hi

What can I say, jesus what a guy!! Do you do this for a hobby or a living (the later I suspect)?

I'm getting a parts list together, when its complete would you be kind enough to give it a check over?

Many thanks
 
Hey Andy, kinda OT but what software do you use to draw your circuits
Protel 99SE.

Do you do this for a hobby or a living (the later I suspect)?
For the last 20 years, the latter.

I'm getting a parts list together, when its complete would you be kind enough to give it a check over?
Sure, no problemo

BTW, that circuit is by no means complicated - cooked it up in my mind while I sat in a boring meeting here at work.

Andy
 
For the last 20 years, the latter.

BTW, that circuit is by no means complicated - cooked it up in my mind while I sat in a boring meeting here at work.

Andy

Well envious... :sick:

Ha ha, looks complex to 'joe public'!! Does Protel export parts list... Could save myself a job here :hey:

Jesus, may as well ask you too build it too :no:
 
Yes, it does export a BOM (bill of materials).

I'll do that when I get home if you want?

Andy
 

Most reactions

Back
Top