Uh oh I need help fast....

[Rocky998]

I tested my tap water awhile back and my water had a neutral ph of 7, that was good. Now I test my tap and it says the water is alkaline (I forget the rating it was) but now I'm really concerned. I was counting on the ph level of 7

 

[Shiverz]

It all depends on your fish choice? I know in some circumstances the GH is far more important than the PH.

It would help if we knew what fish you wanted, and also your actual PH, sometimes they will give you an approximation on your local water supplier, even though it might be vague it'll at least help us understand a little better.

Also certain driftwoods will lower your PH over time, you could de-ionize your water, or even use peat moss. I believe these are all remedies to lower your PH. As for the general direction of use, I'm afraid I can't help you too much as I have zero experience and have only read about it recently (as I'm facing a somewhat similar issue).

 

[Rocky998]

It all depends on your fish choice? I know in some circumstances the GH is far more important than the PH.

It would help if we knew what fish you wanted, and also your actual PH, sometimes they will give you an approximation on your local water supplier, even though it might be vague it'll at least help us understand a little better.

Like I said it used to be an exact 7.0 with ph. All the fish I want like water from 6.5-7.5 and now its like an 8-9 (apx.) I did use test strips btw. Just what I have on hand. I will be getting the API liquid test kit though.

 

[Shiverz]

Honestly I think it would be fine if it's not severely off the charts. GH is more important than PH, I would say it's not a problem, but again I think that certain fish are exception to this rule, but a selection of the more "beginner friendly" fish seem to be hardy, and generally don't mind varied PH values.

I'll tag in @Byron as he is very knowledgeable about such matters. He'll be able to help you far better than I ever will!

 

[Rocky998]

Honestly I think it would be fine if it's not severely off the charts. GH is more important than PH, I would say it's not a problem, but again I think that certain fish are exception to this rule, but a selection of the more "beginner friendly" fish seem to be hardy, and generally don't mind varied PH values.

I'll tag in @Byron as he is very knowledgeable about such matters. He'll be able to help you far better than I ever will!

Ok,thank you!

 

[Shiverz]

If you could list the fish you want, it would help Byron further no doubt!

 

[Slaphppy7]

When testing ph in tap water, it is important to test a sample that has been allowed to gas off for 24 hours, do not test ph straight from the tap; that water is saturated in gasses that will give an erroneous reading.

Draw a sample of tap water into a cup, let it sit for 24 hours, then test ph from that sample...and do get the API liquid test kit ASAP

 

[Rocky998]

When testing ph in tap water, it is important to test a sample that has been allowed to gas off for 24 hours, do not test ph straight from the tap; that water is saturated in gasses that will give an erroneous reading.

Draw a sample of tap water into a cup, let it sit for 24 hours, then test ph from that sample...and do get the API liquid test kit ASAP

Ok. I will do that. Thank you

 

[Rocky998]

If you could list the fish you want, it would help Byron further no doubt!

Peacock gobies/gudgeons, pygmy or julii cories, nerite snails, micro crabs, and hopefully another small schooling fish

 

[Rocky998]

When testing ph in tap water, it is important to test a sample that has been allowed to gas off for 24 hours, do not test ph straight from the tap; that water is saturated in gasses that will give an erroneous reading.

Draw a sample of tap water into a cup, let it sit for 24 hours, then test ph from that sample...and do get the API liquid test kit ASAP

I just thought of this last night... If I need to let the water sit for 24hrs to "gass off" how do I add it into the aquarium? Will the api water conditioner do it well enough?

 

[Slaphppy7]

You will add it straight from the tap, with conditioner. Letting it sit for 24H before testing ph gives us a reading that should be similar to your tank water, once the tank is set up and established for a few weeks.

Since the tap water will be saturated with gasses that the tank won't have, it is important to not submerge the fill-hose when doing WC's, rather let the water hit the surface...this will help gas off the tap water, w/out "gassing up" your tank water

 

[Rocky998]

You will add it straight from the tap, with conditioner. Letting it sit for 24H before testing ph gives us a reading that should be similar to your tank water, once the tank is set up and established for a few weeks.

Since the tap water will be saturated with gasses that the tank won't have, it is important to not submerge the fill-hose when doing WC's, rather let the water hit the surface...this will help gas off the tap water, w/out "gassing up" your tank water

Ok so basically when I add the water the gasses will dissipate... Thank you

 

[Slaphppy7]

Ok so basically when I add the water the gasses will dissipate... Thank you

Not completely, but more so with the fill tube above the water surface...the ph between the tank water and tap water may still differ, but not enough to cause any issues

 

[Rocky998]

Not completely, but more so with the fill tube above the water surface...the ph between the tank water and tap water may still differ, but not enough to cause any issues

The fill tube? Never heard of it till now

 

[Slaphppy7]

The fill tube? Never heard of it till now

When using a siphon to fill the tank, like the one below, which I highly recommend, if you have a compatible faucet within 25 feet of the tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/?tag=ff0d01-20