How do you quickly explain to someone how to set up their tank without baffling them with terms of bio load, nitrate accumulation and maintenance regime? You tell them to stock with smaller fish at a rate of around 1" per gallon. Then once they learn more they can start to forget the rule and figure their own stocking.
You will have to trust me when I say that I have given out advice on this subject hundreds of times and my suggestion has always been to throw away the inch per gallon 'guideline' (I agree, not a rule) completely and look at each fish on an individual basis. This way, we have a much better ability to avoid spending money on an initial stocking, only to have to spend more money when we have to return some in favor of buying a more appropriate species (in my area, store credit is rarely more than 25% of the retail price).
I feel that this also doesn't take compatibility into consideration....and regardless of what anyone might say, it is not always as simply saying 'just pick all fish which are labeled as 'peaceful' on their species profile' since that is only an estimation and doesn't always imply that it will be peaceful with every fish. I suppose a compatibility chart might help out but I have yet to see one which does not have some 'iffy' advice, and of course, do not explain the advice of 'caution'.
Again, the guideline does not even cover very many species and, based upon my understanding, was a freshwater 'monster' that someone stitched into saltwater.
Besides, I am extremely strong proponent for understanding the environments which we are trying to create in an aquarium and ESPECIALLY in marine tanks, feel as though 'trial and error' or 'on the job training' regarding the building blocks of husbandry (i.e. the nitrogen cycle, stocking, water changes, and water chemistry, among others) is costly and can be argued to be unethical since we are placing life in jeopardy. Obviously aquariums are literally worlds apart from keeping most other pets such as dogs, cats, rabbits, reptiles, etc. because we have to generate a completely free-standing environment ---- hence, you would be doing a great service to explain things more in-depth. Hence, the use of the very common 'pinned' articles/topics on this forum....in fact, I don't know of an aquarium-based forum which does not use them and have written quite a few of them myself for another forum.
But I was after exactly how they are more likely to be affected. Many people claim nitrates should be less than 10ppm in a marine tank (including one of your links) yet the scientific texts say 400ppm.
My guess here is that the differences may be generated from one person/website stating what is more of an 'ideal' situation versus what one can 'get away with'.
I would also assume that none of the scientific texts say 400ppm of nitrates is ok in a reef tank?
Sadly I can't. That is just a text saying fish drink through their mouth. It says nothing about how the mere fact they are drinking the water makes them more susceptible to any problems.
The second sentence on the page states "
Water gets into a fish's body through osmosis, the process in which water diffuses from a higher to a lower concentration", so it obviously doesn't state that the fish are drinking the water via their mouths. It then goes on to explain that saltwater fish have to continually 'flush' water osmotic-ally throughout their bodies in order to dilute the salt content in their cells since there is an abundance of salt available where as a freshwater fish needs to severely restrict the amount of water it 'flushes' through its body osmotic-ally because it needs to maintain the much less abundant levels of salt in its body.
My contention here is simply that this gives credence to the idea that since saltwater fish need to utilize more of the surrounding water in which they live, they are also bringing in more of the pollutants in that water as well. After all, the fish has no ability to filter them out before bringing them into their body...otherwise we wouldn't have to worry about the nitrogen cycle at all.
Written by someone in Junior High from details they found on the internet. I take issue with FW fish blowing up like a balloon as it is more likely they would just lose all their internal salts to the point that their cells and biological functions would no longer work.
Ever wonder why Gatorade can claim that it is better at re-hydrating a person than tap water alone can? One reason is because it contains higher sodium levels....and in fact, you cannot remain hydrated without having salt in your body (why many of the MRE - meals, ready to eat - soldiers eat are salty). Hence, osmotic regulation in fish is required otherwise a cell can swell from lack of water or salt.
But not how the mere fact they are in SW makes them more susceptible to any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in the water
Let me pose the question then.....if I have shown you that saltwater fish do, in fact, use much more of the water they live in within their bodies versus freshwater, do you not think that they are also bringing in more ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? (For the record, I realize that nitrate is not a big issue for fish at reasonable levels) In fact, can't this really imply that since saltwater fish are more saturated with the water they live in, aren't they more at risk from changes in chemistry such as pH?
Do you see my point here?
"Mollies, by contrast, can be almost dumped into seawater from a freshwater tank without problems."
Oh boy...you too!?!?!? First, he is clearly making a comparison between guppies and mollies by saying that it takes a long time to acclimate a guppy to saltwater IN COMPARISON to a molly....not directly stating that you can just throw a molly into saltwater. He also uses the word ALMOST, which hints that he is not being literal. You cannot take that one sentence out of context and use it as empirical proof that Dr. Monks is telling us to throw mollies between FW and SW tanks.
The other link to Dr. Monks comments is much more in line with what I have been trying to say....you can't simply dump mollies from freshwater to saltwater...and I haven't once said that I knew how long it would take, only pointed out that websites advice. Going on to further points by Dr. Monks, I see that he points out that some fish can be found in all three, saltwater, brackish and freshwater - but would emphasize the point that a fish in the ocean would first need to travel through brackish water in order to get to freshwater...hence, it has all that time to acclimate itself to increasingly lower salinities which is DISSIMILAR to our ability to buy a fish out of a saltwater tank, take it home, and put it directly into a freshwater tank. OR vice versa.
So, please be sure to understand that I am NOT trying to argue that this isn't possible, but only that the process of doing so takes more time than I feel some on this forum may imply. I feel as though osmosis is one of the reasons why this stands true.
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Whom do you believe, a random website, or someone with the brackish experience and knowledge of nmonks? Almost all euryhaline fishes can be moved from FW to SW in a short time
I trust them both to some degree....and again, have only argued what the definition of "short time" is with Lynden who regularly states that he and his LFS will plop mollies from FW to SW...which I am sure might work from time to time, but I am sure is risky. If he would have said an hour, then I wouldn't have brought it up, or at a maximum, asked where he got that info so I could learn more about it...even though I am not very interested in keeping mollies in my SW tanks.
I am also basing my opinion on the fact that
I used to raise mollies, platies, and guppies (very old video, sorry)for use as feeder fish for my lionfish, porcupine puffer, and snowflake moray eel and have myself literally 'thrown' them into a saltwater tank and in a couple cases, had to remove them after they had died later, even though they escaped being eaten. Granted, an extreme example because they were obviously under alot of additional stress, but still....
It could. It could also be because marine water contains somewhere around 42% less dissolved oxygen than freshwater and as such there will only be enough oxygen to support half the fish.
Hmmm....wouldnt the fish have naturally evolved to deal with this already? Does this mean that there are much fewer marine fish than freshwater fish (in number, not species)?
Isn't this just another great reason for why we shouldn't overstock a tank then?
From my reference books, it would seem that freshwater fish are ingesting large amounts of water, but they do so passively across the gills (rather than actively through ingesting the water into the digestive system). This water is then turned into dilute urine which is continually produced to expel the excess water (Moyle and Cech, Fishes: An Introduction to Ichthyology, 5th edition - p 99).
I completely agree that the term 'drinking' is misleading, but you also seem to understand what I mean anyways. In fact, the term 'ingesting' is not really the right term either, but again, you know that I am not using it solely in a literal sense and neither are those websites.
Perhaps this website, which is scientific in nature (mad science network) and not solely a money making venture as one could more easily argue a .com website might be (much like fishbase.org):
[URL="http/www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec96/847855291.Zo.r.html"]http/www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec96...55291.Zo.r.html[/URL]
Here the same principle is described like before....marine fish take in more water from their surrounding environment than freshwater fish....but then, under the subheading of 'Marine Teleosts', it is stated:
"As a result they will tend to lose water by osmosis to the environment through their skin but mostly through their gills. Consequently, they have developed mechanisms and behavior to compensate for this water loss. Firstly, the kidneys of marine teleosts are modified in such a way that very little water is extracted from the blood, some species even lack certain kidney structures and can't eliminate water (Gordon, 1977; Moyle and Cech, 1982). This results in a reduction in the loss of water by the production of urine. However, water is still being lost by the gills and this cannot be stopped, so the only method left is to somehow replace the water as quickly as it is lost. Marine teleosts accomplish this by actually drinking water, the most reliable drinking rates reported in the literature range from 3-10 ml/(kg hr) (Gordon, 1977). However, drinking water by itself cannot solve the problem, a complex series of events must first occur in the digestive tract. These events are not yet well understood" - taken from
[URL="http/www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec96/847855291.Zo.r.html"]http/www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec96...55291.Zo.r.html[/URL]
So, in short, does this not clearly state that Marine fishes take in surrounding water in large (relatively) amounts and then, through various methods attempt to retain that water within the body? Finally, doesn't this imply that if the surrounding water is high in ammonia, nitrites, and even nitrates (albeit to a lesser detriment), these items can also find their way into the body and may in fact, remain there for some time?
That link also touches upon ideas and info related to how freshwater fish use mechanisms to better control their internal pH (under the sub-heading of "Telosts - Freshwater Fish), but lacks the same description for the marine telosts subject....which gives motivation to learn more about this since it may help understand to what extent marine fishes can deal with pH changes.
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Special Note: I cannot emphasize enough how I am NOT trying to say that various topics are not possible - for example, I do not doubt that someone has simply dumped a molly from a freshwater tank into a saltwater tank without any visual repercussions of a visual nature, however, all of my points and opinions surround motivation(s) behind providing advice for techniques, processes, or husbandry of an aquarium. For example, while it may be possible to dump a molly from FW to SW without any acclimation, it is my opinion that a safer, more reliable technique to suggest would be to acclimate the fish for some time (I would say an hour now that I have read nmonks' post). OR, I feel as though, even if there is strong evidence that bull sharks do not need any acclimation, suggesting that one should take the time to do so may increase the 'odds' of that shark surviving....which, IMHO, is good advice for any fish one might bring home - even freshwater fish - for various reasons to include osmosis. In the end, I am basically trying to point out that what 'could' happen isn't always what 'should' happen within this hobby if for no other reason that the monetary risks involved and/or ethical repercussions for those who genuinely do not want to place his/her livestock in any more danger than is absolutely necessary. Please understand that we are simply taking a very 'scenic route' on the road to me trying to support those initial points and as has already occured a couple times, it is easy to forget those points and thus misunderstand the 'direction' I am coming from with my comments.