Thinking About Setting Up :)
- Thread starter BOD
- Start date
Okay im starting to do my research, and am probably going to still ask a few dumb beginner questions lol.....i apoligise in advance.
Do you have to use 100% RO water or what?
and also whats this? Water filter???
also would it be wise to invest in a uv steriliser?
Do you have to use 100% RO water or what?
and also whats this? Water filter???
also would it be wise to invest in a uv steriliser?
Aquascaper
Fish Aficionado
Always use RO for everything, top-off, water changes, everything. Tap water can contain several heavy metals and other nasties that are bad for the tank.
If you can afford a UV filter get one, it's not a necessity on a tank that size.
That filter................not sure, seen them before in a LFS but as it's not an RO unit didn't pay much attention
If you can afford a UV filter get one, it's not a necessity on a tank that size.
That filter................not sure, seen them before in a LFS but as it's not an RO unit didn't pay much attention
Matthew5664
Fish Herder
Think that filter is like a Nitragon. Filters out the NO3 and some PO4 pH goes down as well as GH and KH. Also filters out the chlorine and some heavy metels. depending on you tap water ( any I bet its hard ) the resin won't last very long...
£ for £ just as cheep to buy RO from the LFS or invest in a RO filter of your own
£ for £ just as cheep to buy RO from the LFS or invest in a RO filter of your own
Dunno about that filter... Yes, use RO or DI water all the time if you plan on keeping corals. Its best not to play with fire or run with scizzors and use tapwater. The trace copper and phosphates you might get would be a deathknell for a reef setup.
UV sterilizers will help prevent infection and are a very good addition to the tank. They're very adept at killing off parasites and can be a great help in guarding against Ich. I've got a 9w Coralife Turbo Twist for my 45g. I'd rather spend the $75 on the light than $100+ on replacing dead fish from an Ich outbreak
UV sterilizers will help prevent infection and are a very good addition to the tank. They're very adept at killing off parasites and can be a great help in guarding against Ich. I've got a 9w Coralife Turbo Twist for my 45g. I'd rather spend the $75 on the light than $100+ on replacing dead fish from an Ich outbreak
Aquascaper
Fish Aficionado
It's what the RO unit does, not who it's made by that makes the difference.
Generally there are 2 stage, 3 stage and 4 stage RO units, the more stages the purer the water. The types of filter obviously make a big difference too. You could add a DI filter to that as well for near perfect H2O.
Generally there are 2 stage, 3 stage and 4 stage RO units, the more stages the purer the water. The types of filter obviously make a big difference too. You could add a DI filter to that as well for near perfect H2O.
Those API tapwater filters use deioniser resin, they only produce a few gallons before the cartridge needs replacing which are quite expensive, it would cost you an absolute fortune in the run.
Have a look at ro-man.com ive got a 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit and connect it to the outside tap when needed and then store it away in a cupboard during the week.
You can either do this or have it permanently plumbed in under the sink.
Have a look at ro-man.com ive got a 4 stage 50 gallon per day unit and connect it to the outside tap when needed and then store it away in a cupboard during the week.
You can either do this or have it permanently plumbed in under the sink.
Yeah, lots of people tout their filtration systems as "de-ionizing" when they really use cheapo resins like maestro mentioned. TRUE de-ionized water is water that has been distilled 3 times. Distillation involves heating the water till vaporization, then condensing the vapor into a second resevior. When the water vaporizes, it separates from trace elements and the condensate is pure H2O. Distilling water 3 times gives 99.99999etc% pure H2O and is true de-ionization. This is the kind of filter used in chem and bio-chem labs for the highest quality.
DeI units are VERY expensive and also VERY expensive to run (vaporizing water costs lots of heat energy) which is why most people around here advocate using RO water (reverse osmosis). RO uses a membrane system to filter water. Any DI unit worth its salt will cost you upwards of $300 while RO units are around $100-$150. Hope that provides some guidance and a little science for ya
DeI units are VERY expensive and also VERY expensive to run (vaporizing water costs lots of heat energy) which is why most people around here advocate using RO water (reverse osmosis). RO uses a membrane system to filter water. Any DI unit worth its salt will cost you upwards of $300 while RO units are around $100-$150. Hope that provides some guidance and a little science for ya
They literally have 2, 3, or 4 canister chambers
Yes, you can mix LR from different regions. As for the seeding, its difficult to truly quantify it. You'll have some bacterial growth within a month, and probably some coralline algae in the months after that. The rock probably will not be truly live for at least 6-12 months. Every setup is different, so keep that in mind
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