Stocking A Fish Tank, Do's And Dont's

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sawickib

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Ok so most of us all started off in the hobby wondering what fish to buy, how many, and if they're peaceful, so I am going to do my best to help new comers decide on fish I will be touching on common species not exotic ones that some people have availability to, and which ones aren't right for the average fish keeper.
 
I will be separating the fish in categories of size requirements, cold water fish, aggression, brackish fish, and social fish.
 
First and probably most important is size requirement for most commonly available fish.
  • Red Belly Pacu- Commonly mistaken as red belly piranha, these are VERY large growing disc shaped vegetarians, they will also predate on small fish species, such as guppies and neon/cardinal tetras. Growing anywhere from 12-24" in captivity, requiring a minimum of 200+ gallons (757 liters) size tank.
  • Black Pacu- Almost the same as red bellies, but these are tank BUSTERS, acquiring up to 40" in length, and because they are disc shaped obtain large depth. Large ponds or large indoor tanks exceeding 1000 gallons (3785 liters) should be considered. 
  • Clown Knife- These are opportunistic carnivores, and can reach lengths of 40", eating any fish that will fit into its mouth. A 500 gallon (1892 liters) plus size tank should be prepared for this specimen.  
  • Black Ghost Knife- These knife are very territorial and reach 12-16", you may notice that their mouth looks very small and it only located in the front, similar to the mouth of a lungfish, but when opens it grows 10 fold haha literally able to eat any slender dither fish it wants. This fish requires a tank of 129+ gallons (488 liters) at the least.
  • Bala Sharks- These are sold commonly very small as dither fish, they are omnivorous but mostly herbivores, they reach 12-16" and dart around the tank, if the tank is to small it may crash and break its spine, this specie should also be kept as a schooling fish with 6+ individuals, the more present, the less stress on the fish. The tank should be 6-8 ft long, the width and height isnt as important, but should should consider a 2x2 ft.
  • Peacock Bass- Large growing cichlids that require a 300 gallon+ (1135 liters) size tank, and possess very large mouths.
  • Clown Loaches- These are also commonly sold quite small as well, looking very cute, but they reach 12-16" as well and can be quite boisterous, usually sold to people as snail destroyers, a small group of assassin snails can be a much better alternative. A 6x2x2 ft aquarium should be considered, roughly 180 gallons (681 liters).
  • Polypterus- These are commonly sold as dinosaur fish, dragon fish, or the more correct term bichirs. The smallest of this fish genera can be housed in a 55 gallon (208 liters), but no smaller. The most common of these fish in the hobby, is polypterus senegalus which obtains lengths of about 10" if you're lucky, and another common one is polypterus ornatipinnis the difference between these two is usually the price tag, this fish reaches lengths of 16-24" requiring no smaller than a 180 gallon (681 liters). These fish are passive-aggressive, meaning they are relatively peaceful unless the fish can fit into its mouth, they are generally not territorial.
  • Common Plecostomus and Sailfin Plecostomus- These are the most common and cheapest plecos available in the fish keeping hobby, people are told these are awesome algae eaters, and while they may eat some algae it will not sustain them and they will die if veggies and algae wafers are not substituted. The common pleco will reach around 24" and the sailfin will reach around 12-24", depending on the species, they should be housed in a 300 gallons (1135 liters) plus tank.
  • Oscars- These are almost always sold as cute little colorful and active babies, but when bought they will grow rapidly to their adult size in just a few months, reaching a length of about 12", this is a carnivorous and messy fish, a 75 gallon (283 liters) tank is required for each specimen, meaning that to have two you will need 150 gallons (567 liters) and so on and so fourth.
  • Arowanas- These fish are another large, and predatory fish, they can reach 24"+ easily, and should be housed in 400+ gallon (1514 liters) sized tanks, and will need a strong and tight lid so the fish does not jump out.
  • Red Tail Catish- These are usually sold very small and look really cool, but they grow fast and they grow big, they grow about the size of your torso, a little bit bigger actually and should only be housed in tropical ponds or public aquariums.
  • Pangasius Catfish or Iridescent Shark- These guys are also sold very small but grow into monsters, these guys need a 250+ gallon (946 liters) aquarium, and will eat a lot of food.
  • Columbian Shark- These guys arent particular monsters, but reach around 10" and should be housed in around a 129+ gallon (488 liters) tank, they also prefer cold water climates.
  • Black Sharks- These monsters reach 2 ft and herbivorous, a 300 gallon (1135 liters) tank would be preferred, they look just like red tailed black sharks but obtain obviously different lengths.
  • Chinese Hi Fin Banded Shark- These are usually sold young, for about 20$ and prefer cold water, they obtain around 18", a pond or 6x2x2 ft tank should be looked into.
  • Sturgeon- These are usually expensive but are still commonly available, they also prefer cold water and reach lengths of 40"+, requiring a tank of 1000+ gallons (3785 liters).
  • Koi and Comet Goldfish- These grow large, usually over 1ft easily, they are cold water fish and should be housed in 75 gallons (283 liters) to 180 gallons (681 liters) size tank.
  • Gar- Most species of gar in the hobby reach more than 30" in length and as such require a 300+ gallon (3785 liters) tank, height is not as important as length and width. There are much larger species such as alligator gar, which should be completely avoided, these are large and aggressive fish that are only suitable for VERY large aquariums or ponds, the same goes for arapaima.
  • Shovelnose or Tiger Catfish- These are another large growing species of fish that reach around 3 ft and should be avoided they possess very large mouths and will eat anything that fits into them. A 180+ gallon (681 liters) tank should be looked into.
  • Giant Gouramis- As the name leads to, these fish get huge at about 28", and should be housed in around a 180 gallon (681 liters) tank, the bigger the better for these guys though.
  • Tire Track and Fire Eels- These guys are monsters reaching lengths of 30"+, a 300 gallon (1135 liters) tank or larger is needed for these large spiny eels.
  • Flag Tail Prochilodus- These are herbivores that grow quite large at 14", they are disc shaped so they gain pretty good depth. They will eat small fish species and will go after the slime coat of other fish at times. They will require a 150 gallon (540 liters) aquarium at the least for an adult specimen.
  • Chinese Algae Eater- Can reach 11", they will eat algae when small but as they mature they will become more aggressive to fish in the aquarium and will desire the slime coat of other fish. The minimum tank size for these guys is a 75 gallon (280 liters) tank, they mostly slouch around but generally aren't very friendly.
This is all I could think of for large fish that are commonly sold, if you have any other suggestions then please add! 
 
The second category will deal with cold water fish and amphibians. 
  • African Clawed Frog- These guys are really cool little fully aquatic frogs but one should know that they are cold water, like to hide, and can get diseases from most fish.
  • Axolotls or Mexican Salamanders- These guys need a 30+ gallon size tank and have pretty much the same requirements as the african clawed frog.
  • White Cloud Mountain Minnows- This is a small schooling species that does not like warm waters, resembles the tropical species of tetras, but are in fact cold water fish and prefer a temperature range of 14 – 22 °C/57-71°F.
  • Sturgeon- Cold water, and get big.
  • Chinese Hi Fin Banded Shark- Cold water, and get big.
  • Goldfish- These are put with tropical fish ALL the time, it shortens their life and weakens their immune system. Some fancy goldfish require heaters i believe so you should put some more research into these fish, as with all the others.
  • Hill Stream Loach- These arent always commonly available but are pretty neat fish.
  • Weather Loach- These are schooling fish that look to burrow and play in the sand and prefer water of around 17.8 – 23.3°C/64 – 74°F, also they are very good escape artists and should have a tight fitting lid.
My knowledge of cold water fish isnt very extensive so please add anything you know of.
 
The third category will deal with overly aggressive fish. This can be subjective, but these fish usually get a bad rap for a reason.
  • Red Tail Shark- These are usually peaceful grazers when younger, but as they mature they can become excessively aggressive with bottom dwelling fish and if kept with other sharks they usually will fight to death.
  • Tiger Barbs- Notorious fin nippers, are less aggressive in groups of 10 or more though.
  • African Cichlids- Not suitable for a community setting at all, and require different water chemistry than most. Really cichlids in general besides most South American species should be avoided in a community setting.
  • Piranha- Yea a little silly, but they will kill most fish.
  • Snake Head- Illegal in the states however in other countries they should be avoided, some snake head grow VERY large, but there is smaller species that are still aggressive.
  • Gars- will eat your small fish
  • Black Ghost Knife- Will eat your small fish
  • Polypterus- Will eat your small fish
  • Most Large Species of Catfish- Will eat your small fish
  • Chinese Algae Eater- As they mature they bully and suck the slime coat of other fish.
This category is a little redundant, but any further suggestions is welcomed. 
 
The fourth category will deal with brackish fish.
  • Gymnothorax Tile- These are commonly sold under the name Freshwater Snowflake eel, they can live in freshwater for a few months but it will weaken their immune system and they will have a severely shortened life span.
  • Freshwater Lionfish- These are not freshwater at all will have the same affect to a freshwater environment as the freshwater snow flake eel.
  • Green Scat- Same thing
  • Freshwater puffer fish- The only true freshwater puffers are the mbu, fhaka, and the dwarf puffer fish, all puffers are messy eaters and need snails to trim their teeth.
  • Mollies- They can tolerate brackish water and some can be housed in freshwater or full marine but problems may arise.
  • Archer Fish- The ornate species of this is freshwater, but the common archer fish is brackish.
  • Dragon Goby- Will not do well in freshwater at all.
  • Four-eyed Fish- Small schooling fish that lives at the surface of the water.
  • Target fish- Rare brackish fish.
  • Mooney fish- Also called mono fish, prefer brackish.
  • Mud Skipper- Half land and half brackish fish.
  • Colombian Shark- Also mentioned above, it should be in a large brackish set up.
If there is anymore please feel free to tell me.
 
The last category will be of social fish and very broad, groups generally are 6 or more of the same species.
  • Most tetras- At least all the small species of tetras i know of are schooling.
  • Geophagus- These are rather large and social fish that dig through sand with their mouths.
  • Barbed fish- All the species i know of prefer groups.
  • Bala Sharks- Prefer groups.
  • Silver dollars- All dollars i know of prefer groups.
  • Loaches- Prefer groups
  • Corydoras Catfish- Like groups of the same species.
  • Danios- Prefer groups.
  • Rainbow FIsh- Prefer groups
  • Rasboras- Prefer groups.
  • Pictus Catfish- Prefer groups, really cute little guys, may eat small fish.
  • Porthole Catfish- Prefer groups.
  • Upside Down Catfish- Synodontis that prefers groups.
On a last note you should never add fish to an uncylced fish tank, if you just got your tank setup yesterday then it would be a good idea to give this a read. >>>http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/421488-cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first/
 
Hope this helped some people, and if you guys have anything to add or if this should look more neat or if anything is wrong then please tell me! Thanks! Any other questions that havent been answered then feel free to ask!
 
So, obviously this info wont let you know everything you need to know for the care of these fish, i would suggest that you take some time research at any of these sites. FishBase or SeriouslyFish or PlanetCatfish or Badmans or CoryInfo or OscarInfo or PufferInfo. This should cover most areas of fish.
 
Here are some examples of overstocked tanks, or tanks that are in no way suitable for the fish living with in it. If yours looks like any of these then major efforts should be taken to change them
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Oooh, those pictures hurt my eyes...
Nice article, though, but I believe WCM like alot of swimming space so "small tank" might be too small for them. I'm not entirely sure, though. :)
 
LyraGuppi said:
Oooh, those pictures hurt my eyes...
Nice article, though, but I believe WCM like alot of swimming space so "small tank" might be too small for them. I'm not entirely sure, though.
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Thank you! And i actually cant change anything anymore
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i guess to much time has passed, so hopefully they see your comment.
 
Heres 1 more really bad tank.

 
 
Sailfin pleco Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps grows much larger than 12" they can (although rarely do) reach 19-20" the gold spot plec (also referred to as sailfins in most shops) Pterygoplichthys Joselimaniaus is the one that only grows 12" - these two are very difficult to tell apart as youngsters even in the LFS.
 
Weather loach do not do well in tropical tanks they prefer cooler water and large tanks - good escape artists too so a tight fitting lid is needed.
 
Alright everything is updated and fixed i believe thanks to working with Char!
 
Nice article just missing pictures of all examples of fish. If you are begginer as I am I cant tell by names what fish is what. And in stores there is sometimes hard to find price tag not to say correct name ...
 
RinaLane said:
Nice article just missing pictures of all examples of fish. If you are begginer as I am I cant tell by names what fish is what. And in stores there is sometimes hard to find price tag not to say correct name ...
The best thing would be to google all of these fish if your interested in keeping them, ill talk to mods about it though.
 
Great article.  I found this image of a Beijing Fish Market and it reminded me of a tank I saw in the window of a nail salon a long time ago.
 
If I remember correctly, they had about 15 Blood Parrots, ranging in size from 4" to 7" in a 50 gal. 
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DSC01194.jpg
 
Thanks, yea its really quite sad how there are so many fish owner that are mis-informed or could care less.
 
 
Mollies- They can tolerate brackish water and some can even live in full saltwater, but have no problems in freshwater either.
 
Now when I read here.
 
 
 
When mollies are kept in freshwater tanks, they often become sickly. Common symptoms are fin-rot, fungus, and the "shimmies". Fin-rot is a gradual decay of the fins, often with obviously dead, grey patches on the fins. Left untreated, this will kill your fish. Fungus usually looks like fine white threads and can appear anywhere on the body, though it's most common on the fins. Again, untreated, this is serious. Both fin-rot and fungus are easily treated with over-the-counter fish medicines. The shimmies are, as the name suggests, a bit like the dance of the same name. The fish seem to tread water, wobbling from side to side. Yet again, left untreated, this will kill your fish.
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/137887-mollies-need-salt/
 
So who is right?
As a novice fish keeper I find this confusing to say the least.
 
See I do read the forum posts.
 
NickAu said:
 
 
Mollies- They can tolerate brackish water and some can even live in full saltwater, but have no problems in freshwater either.
 
Now when I read here.
 
 

 
When mollies are kept in freshwater tanks, they often become sickly. Common symptoms are fin-rot, fungus, and the "shimmies". Fin-rot is a gradual decay of the fins, often with obviously dead, grey patches on the fins. Left untreated, this will kill your fish. Fungus usually looks like fine white threads and can appear anywhere on the body, though it's most common on the fins. Again, untreated, this is serious. Both fin-rot and fungus are easily treated with over-the-counter fish medicines. The shimmies are, as the name suggests, a bit like the dance of the same name. The fish seem to tread water, wobbling from side to side. Yet again, left untreated, this will kill your fish.
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/137887-mollies-need-salt/
 
So who is right?
As a novice fish keeper I find this confusing to say the least.
 
See I do read the forum posts.
 


OOOoooo my apologies its looks as though your right, ill contact the mods to fix this thank you!
 
yes you have. Try reading the Mongabay page which contains several mollies and talks about salt. http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm
 
Sailfin Molly [
Poecilia latipinna
WATER : pH 7.0-8.5 (7.8), 20-38 dH (30), 70-79°F (21-26°C). A 0.5-3% addition of salt is suggested by some, although unnecessary. Mix 4-23 TSP. of salt for every 10 gallons (5-30 g/10 L).
 
Short-finned Molly, Pointed-mouth Molly [
Poecilia sphenops
WATER : pH 7.0-8.5 (7.6), 12-30 dH (20), 70-82°F (21-28°C). A 0.5-1.5% addition of salt can be used, although this is not required. This can be accomplished by adding 4-11 TSP. of salt to every 10 gallons (5-15 g/10 L).
 
Mexican Sailfin Molly, Yucatan Sailfin Molly, Green Molly, Sailfin Molly [
Poecilia velifera
WATER : pH 7.0-8.5 (7.8), 12-38 dH (30), 72-82°F (22-28°C). A 0.5-3% addition of salt is suggested,although unnecessary after a period of acclimation. Mix 4-23 TSP. of salt for every 10 gallons (5-30 g/10 L).
 
And there are more types of mollies not mentioned.
 
But wait a minute- According to the Smithsonian Marine Station at Fort Pierce:
Salinity:
The sailfin molly is one of only a few species of bony fishes that are considered to be truly euryhaline, inhabiting fresh to hypersaline waters (Nordlie et al. 1992, Zedler 2001). Populations have tolerated salinities up to 80 ppt, depending on the salinity to which the fish were previously acclimated (Nordlie et al. 1992). An even wider salinity range of 0 to 94.6 ppt has been documented in other studies (Kumaraguru Vasagam et al. 2007). However, captive breeding of P. latipinna is reportedly least successful in freshwater (eg. Kumaraguru Vasagam et al. 2005). Salt is typically added to molly tanks to induce breeding (Whitern 1983), and a salinity of 25 ppt yields faster growth and the most fry per clutch (Kumaraguru Vasagam et al. 2005).
from http://www.sms.si.edu/irlspec/Poecil_latipi.htm
 
If your eyes are not spinning yet, consider this less common molly, an all female strain which mates with one of the males of 3 other different molly species.
Salinity tolerance
Poecilia formosa is a euryhaline secondary division freshwater species (Myers, 1938). During the salinity treatment with gradually increasing salinity the fish showed no signs of stress and no mortality was observed. More than fifty fry were hatched during the experiment. In the second series of experiments even when transferred directly from 0 to 35% salinity and back to 0% the fish showed no signs of stress and mortality was three of fifty for the P. formosa I strain and no mortality from the forty in the triploid VI/17 strain. This indicates that P. formosa has a high salinity tolerance and can survive marine conditions. Furthermore it indicates that there are no detectable differences in salinity tolerance among P. formosa differing in ploidy.
from http://www.researchgate.net/profile/Ingo_Schlupp/publication/227786265_Biogeography_of_the_Amazon_molly_Poecilia_formosa/links/0fcfd5100598e4e43a000000.pdf
 
I get the feeling that the answer here is not so simple. My best guess fro what I have read is most of them can live in anything from full fresh to full sw but do least well in full fresh, especially in terms of both spawning and growth rates.
 

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