Still Have Concerns

[Kaidonni]

Rather than start a new thread...
 
I decided to film my aquarium's flow - is it too slow or is it just fine for ~50 litres? As to my lighting schedule, it's just one lamp on in the room when it gets dark outside, I hope that isn't messing the fish up...not sure if the aquarium light will be too bright or not, I'd have to try it out in the daytime just to be safe.
 
And then I get to a water change schedule...with just the 5 White Cloud Mountain Minnows in the tank, I was thinking 11 litres a week (which is just over 20%). Perhaps a larger change now and then (no access to a python and no way to hook one up to any taps - I wouldn't be allowed to anyway), removing all I need to on day one, adding in what I can, and then adding in the difference the following day.
 
I've also dialed the temperature down on the heater by 1C, not going to rush it since my water change water isn't heated (they'd have to contend with a gradually decreasing temperature and decreases/increases brought about by water changes). In the video the one Minnow sips at the top around 1:09, I might need to increase the air stone output a little.
 
And before I forget...there's a bit of lime on the heater, removing some the other day it removed part of the painted on protective coating...I hope neither the lime nor the coating causes any problems.
 
I've also still been doing my Nutrafin ammonia and nitrite tests. The nitrite test has gone all the way down, the only way to tell of any colour development is to compare against an untested sample of clear water (it's that faint! Much fainter than when the Clown Loach was in the tank). As for the ammonia...the same as far as telling whether there is any colour development, although it looks like there is some even without the comparison (but I don't think it's gone any fainter than before). The strange thing about the ammonia one is that when I place it to the right of the untested clear sample, it doesn't appear as contrasting as when it's to the left...

 

[Byron]

This video is only a "snapshot" in time, and it would be preferable to observe the fish for a much longer period over the course of a day.  But from what I see, I have a couple suggestions.
 
First, on the flow, yes, it is too strong.  I see the fish battling it and being swept back a few times; this isn't such an issue in larger tanks where there will be quieter areas, but here we are dealing with a small space so this sort of thing is amplified.  This is easily fixed (I hope).  Aim the filter return flow into the end wall, not across the tank.  I have this in all my larger tanks with canisters.
 
Second, the fish remaining very close to the surface and in the flow is likely due to the temperature.  The warmer the water, the harder the fish have to work just to maintain their physiology, and for cooler water fish like these it is harder yet, plus they will have an oxygen deficiency and be respirating faster to compensate.  I would get the temperature down to room temperature for this species.
 
On the water change, I would try to do a bit more than just 11 liters, which is roughly about 1/4 at most of the volume.  Another 11 liters (totally about 20) would be better.  I'm not understanding the replacement issue though...whatever volume you remove, replace all of it at the time, to the level the tank is normally kept [= up to the frame presumably].
 
To the light.  How long have you had the plants in this tank?  I ask because without an overhead tank light, they are probably not going to survive.  These are sword plants, that need moderate light and are heavy feeders, so I would also use a good comprehensive liquid fertilizer.  But the light has to be increased overhead, for at least six hours a day.
 
Byron.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I would just say it sure looks like you are cycled. As for the rest, I leave that to Byron, you are in good hands.

 

[Kaidonni]

This video is only a "snapshot" in time, and it would be preferable to observe the fish for a much longer period over the course of a day.  But from what I see, I have a couple suggestions.
 
First, on the flow, yes, it is too strong.  I see the fish battling it and being swept back a few times; this isn't such an issue in larger tanks where there will be quieter areas, but here we are dealing with a small space so this sort of thing is amplified.  This is easily fixed (I hope).  Aim the filter return flow into the end wall, not across the tank.  I have this in all my larger tanks with canisters.
 
Second, the fish remaining very close to the surface and in the flow is likely due to the temperature.  The warmer the water, the harder the fish have to work just to maintain their physiology, and for cooler water fish like these it is harder yet, plus they will have an oxygen deficiency and be respirating faster to compensate.  I would get the temperature down to room temperature for this species.
 
On the water change, I would try to do a bit more than just 11 liters, which is roughly about 1/4 at most of the volume.  Another 11 liters (totally about 20) would be better.  I'm not understanding the replacement issue though...whatever volume you remove, replace all of it at the time, to the level the tank is normally kept [= up to the frame presumably].
 
To the light.  How long have you had the plants in this tank?  I ask because without an overhead tank light, they are probably not going to survive.  These are sword plants, that need moderate light and are heavy feeders, so I would also use a good comprehensive liquid fertilizer.  But the light has to be increased overhead, for at least six hours a day.
 
Byron.

 
I've now pointed the filter outlet at the end wall - hope I've got the right one (it's the one opposite the direction it was pointed in?). The top of the water in the rest of the tank looks calm now, that won't be an issue?
 
I'm reducing the temperature gradually. The dial was turned to 23C yesterday and 22C this evening, but the thermometer is reading ~24C. I don't want to rush this part for fear of stressing the Minnows too much. Yes, I'm going towards their proper range, but I suspect too sudden and I'll shock them nonetheless. They also do hang about the other parts of the tank, but whenever I get close and especially when I turn the other lights on in the room, they tend to gather near the surface.
 
As to the water change issue...it's about temperature again. Am I okay to use warm water from the tap providing I use Prime or another dechlorinator that deals with heavy metals? Do I run the water off for a specific period of time (cold or hot), or am I fine to just go ahead and fill my bucket? If that's fine, I'd be able to do large water changes more easily without using additional buckets. Is 15L (30%) or 20L (40%) better, as I'd just move to once a week now? If I added the water straight to the tank without dosing my buckets with Prime, Seachem do advise to dose for the volume of the tank (to take into account dilution of the new water). Would the pH of the warm water be affected in any way?
 
My plants...they don't last that long, a few weeks at the most. Some are going within 1-2 weeks. Would my light be too bright for the Minnows, or will they be fine providing I don't just turn it on from a darkened room?

 

[Byron]

I've now pointed the filter outlet at the end wall - hope I've got the right one (it's the one opposite the direction it was pointed in?). The top of the water in the rest of the tank looks calm now, that won't be an issue?
 

 
The filter is in the rear left corner in the video, so the return flow should be aimed into the left side wall.  Depending how this works, you might consider moving the filter a bit to the right on the back wall, so there are a few inches between the return and the left end wall.  This will dissipate the flow a bit more.
No issue with the surface being calmer; there is still going to be enough disturbance on the left and the gas exchange will be fine.
 
 

I'm reducing the temperature gradually. The dial was turned to 23C yesterday and 22C this evening, but the thermometer is reading ~24C. I don't want to rush this part for fear of stressing the Minnows too much. Yes, I'm going towards their proper range, but I suspect too sudden and I'll shock them nonetheless. They also do hang about the other parts of the tank, but whenever I get close and especially when I turn the other lights on in the room, they tend to gather near the surface.
 

 
I would do this within the span of a day.  Simply turn the heater off and let the water naturally cool down to room temperature.  Now, I assume room temp is sort of normal, around 70F or 21C?  A lowering of 3 or 4 degrees over the day is not going to hurt this species, quite the reverse.
 

As to the water change issue...it's about temperature again. Am I okay to use warm water from the tap providing I use Prime or another dechlorinator that deals with heavy metals? Do I run the water off for a specific period of time (cold or hot), or am I fine to just go ahead and fill my bucket? If that's fine, I'd be able to do large water changes more easily without using additional buckets. Is 15L (30%) or 20L (40%) better, as I'd just move to once a week now? If I added the water straight to the tank, Prime do advise to dose for the volume of the tank (to take into account dilution of the new water), so it's what's easier as concerns how to dose the Prime (otherwie I'd have to dose the bucket both times I filled it). Would the pH of the warm water be affected in any way?
 

 
I always mix hot and cold at the tap, using my hand, and aim for a tad cooler.  I use a basic conditioner that detoxifies chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals.  Prime does this, and more.  It is often suggested to run the water a couple minutes before using it, that can't hurt.
As for the amount of conditioner (Prime or whichever), I know Seachem advise dosing for the entire tank but this is unnecessary, wasteful, and adds more TDS which is not in the best interests of the fish.  I have never done this in 25 years.  I use a Python and fill directly from tap to tank, and 50% of the tank volume, and I start it filling and then add sufficient conditioner for the replaced water, roughly.  So in my 115g tank, which probably holds 90-95 actual gallons, I drain it down to half-way or sometimes a bit more, then start refilling and add conditioner for say 40 gallons.  I only have chlorine to fuss over; if you have chloramine, I would use a bit more [I think most advise this].
 
If you are using a bucket to fill, I would add conditioner only for the water in the bucket, and to the bucket.  Then add same amount in the second bucket of water, etc.  I do this on my 10g as the Python fills it too fast and I've overflowed more than once, quite a mess.  The tap and fish room are at opposite ends of the house.
 
The pH should not be an issue; presumably your tap and tank water are relatively close.
 

My plants...they don't last that long, a few weeks at the most. Some are going within 1-2 weeks. Would my light be too bright for the Minnows, or will they be fine providing I don't just turn it on from a darkened room?
 

 
This is the light.  There is no problem with an overhead tank light provided it is not overly bright.  Floating plants help with this too.  Those are lovely plants, but you want to keep them looking like that, and that takes moderate lighting over the tank.  Dying plants add more organic waste to the tank, and make conditions worse for fish.
 
What light doe you have for the tank?  Be specific.
 
Byron.

 

[Kaidonni]

I just have the light that came with the tank, fitted into the hood. No idea if it can be tweaked or if it's just basic. Flourescent tubing by the looks of it.
 
As to running the tap...does it have to be while the water is warm, or is it okay when it's cold?
 
I'll probably aim for 15-20 litres in my water changes from now on.

 

[Byron]

I just have the light that came with the tank, fitted into the hood. No idea if it can be tweaked or if it's just basic. Flourescent tubing by the looks of it.
 
As to running the tap...does it have to be while the water is warm, or is it okay when it's cold?
 
I'll probably aim for 15-20 litres in my water changes from now on.

 
I would run the hot and cold, adjust to the tank water temp or slightly cooler to your hand [I take a small container of tank water with me to the utility room sink, and then use my left hand in the tank water and under the tap several times to feel the difference].  Let this run a few moments before using it.
 
To the light, it will likely be a T8 fluorescent tube.  At one end of the tube there should be some data, if you can post that I should know exactly.  From the earlier tank dimensions, this is a standard 2-foot 15 gallon, so the tube is probably 18 inches in length?  Which would be a 15w.  This will work fine, with a good tube [the ones that come with almost every tank are rubbish in my experience].
 
Assuming the above is accurate, I would look for a Hagen Life-Glo in the same length (take the tube with you) and in T8 [unless we find out it is T5].  This is the best single tube for a planted tank with fish; I use it on all my single-tube tanks.  Another good tube is the ZooMed UltraSun.  There may be other brands, but I have used both of these so I can recommend them.
 
A photoperiod of 6-8 hours each day, using a timer, should be adequate.  You can have this period of light any time, when you are there to view the aquarium.  Keeping it the same every day is important for plants and fish.
 
Byron.

 

[Kaidonni]

It's a Sun-Glo 46cm 15w T8.
 
As for room temperature, 20-21C is about right. I'll get the heater turned down sometime early in the morning as it's already been dialled down yesterday and today.

 

[Byron]

It's a Sun-Glo 46cm 15w T8.
 
As for room temperature, 20-21C is about right. I'll get the heater turned down sometime early in the morning as it's already been dialled down yesterday and today.

 
Well, that tube might be OK.  It is more "warm" (meaning in colour temperature, not "temperature") than the Life-Glo, but if you like the warmer colour, the plants should be fine.  "Warm" means more red and less blue in the white mix, while "cool" means less red and more blue; these generally refer to the Kelvin temperature of the light, or sometimes nannometers.  Sun-Glo is rated 4200K, Life-Glo is 6700K.
 
These need to be replaced about every 12 months, as their strength diminishes quickly.  If you want to get a Life-Glo and try it, I think it would probably be a better tube here.

 

[Kaidonni]

Thanks for the advice. I'll need to see about turning the light on and checking it out first as it hasn't been on for a while. I'll still replace it, but in the meantime I can get the fish familiar with the light being on. How would I go about setting it on a timer?
 
I've turned the airstone up because the Minnows have been doing a little sipping tonight. The temperature near the tank at the moment is ~20.2C according to our digital thermometer. I just don't think even this other internal thermometer in the tank is accurate, it's reading about 24C-25C, while the heater itself is now at 22C. The outside stick-on one is usually 26C.
 
Perhaps I need to replace the heater too...

 

[Byron]

Thanks for the advice. I'll need to see about turning the light on and checking it out first as it hasn't been on for a while. I'll still replace it, but in the meantime I can get the fish familiar with the light being on. How would I go about setting it on a timer?
 
I've turned the airstone up because the Minnows have been doing a little sipping tonight. The temperature near the tank at the moment is ~20.2C according to our digital thermometer. I just don't think even this other internal thermometer in the tank is accurate, it's reading about 24C-25C, while the heater itself is now at 22C. The outside stick-on one is usually 26C.
 
Perhaps I need to replace the heater too...

 
First on the thermometers.  The stick-on digital strips are often inaccurate.  I have these, two or three on each tank, from years ago, but I learned early on that they were questionable.  The more "common" type with a glass tube and red liquid that floats (weights in the bottom keep it upright, and you can get suction cups to stick it on the glass) are much more reliable.  I have several of these, and they read identically when in the same tank.
 
To the heater, these often do not read the actual temperature, so it may differ from the floating thermometer.  As long as the heater maintains the same temperature consistently, it is OK.  My Eheim Jager heater in one tank is set at 21C and maintains the tank at 25C and has for a few years now.  And I've had other heaters that did the same, in varying degrees.  I use the thermometer to get the water correct, then set the heater to keep it there.
 
So your differences are probably normal, and the tank is likely 24-25C.  I would get this down to room temperature and the fish will be better.
 
As for light timers, the ones sold in hardware and home improvement stores for lamps and such work fine.  I like the digital ones, as they have a built-in energy source that keeps the timer running in a power outage (the lights won't light) and that saves having to reset all the timers; with seven tanks, this can be a chore.  But the manual less expensive ones are fine, though I have found they sometimes give out after a couple years.
 
Byron.

 

[Kaidonni]

I've decided I'll probably stick to one bucket for water changes. Shortly before I do the wc, I'll fill the bucket ~10 litres, take all the water out I plan to, add this in, put another 5-10 litres, let that dechlorinate while I clean the filter/mess with plants/do whatever else needs doing, then add that water. Saves on where to keep all these buckets when dechlorinating water.

 

[Byron]

I've decided I'll probably stick to one bucket for water changes. Shortly before I do the wc, I'll fill the bucket ~10 litres, take all the water out I plan to, add this in, put another 5-10 litres, let that dechlorinate while I clean the filter/mess with plants/do whatever else needs doing, then add that water. Saves on where to keep all these buckets when dechlorinating water.

 
Just so you know, the dechlorinators all work instantly.  When using a bucket on small tanks, I tend to get the temp at the faucet, then begin filling the bucket, and I add the half teaspoon (orf whatever amount is required) to the bucket as it fills.  Then it goes into the tank.  It won't hurt to let it set, but you don't need to wait.  B.

 

[Kaidonni]

Well, in this instance I'll be cleaning the filter while I wait, and any other maintenance that is necessary - it just saves on filling two buckets.

 

[Kaidonni]

Are Arcadia Tropical any good at all for lighting?