Repair : Seperating The Glass ! Problems

[Applecart]

Hi,

I've got two tanks I need to dismantle for repairs ( replacement sections )
I'm really struggling to get the panels apart. I've cut back the silicone inside and any that is outside,
but my Swann Morton surgeons scalpel is too thick to get to the silicone between the panes.
Is there a trick to this? Will I have to resort to an old style double edged razor blade? ( with one side taped up for safety )

Also... I've just been to get a price for replacement glass.
The place I went to says I need to use toughened glass?
Is that correct? or just a money spinner for them?

Sizes and Prices are:

14.5" x 30" 6mm = £14.40 ( front of a 2.5ft tank )

12" x 30" 6mm = £14.40 or 8mm = £28.80 ( base of a 2.5ft tank )

12" x 36" 6mm = £14.40 or 8mm = £28.80 ( base of a 3ft tank )

Any opinions or comments are most welcome. Thanks.

Richard.

 

[Westwood]

I read about some one using Fishing line and dragging it down the seals. Not sure how well it works.

Westwood

 

[Inchworm]

I'm going to move your thread over to the Hardware and DIY section. Stands and lids are popular items for handymen to make and I'm sure a search there will bring up a number of interesting ideas.

 

[Applecart]

Thanks . . but that's odd.. I was sure I'd already posted in DIY Hardware as OldMan47 had suggested
Perhaps you've mixed me up with someone else?

I've managed to take the tank base off now, I used a very thin double edged razor, and once I had it halfway through, I used a sawing back and forth action whilst pulling it along down the seam. Still very tight in some sections, but I got there in the end.

Does anyone know if what the glass retailer ( they make windows ) is correct in saying it must be toughened glass for the size I'm needing?
From what I've read here, when people get cracks in their tanks, to me, it means they must have annealed/tempered glass or laminated, because if it was toughened glass, they'd not get a crack, it'd just shatter into thousands of tiny squares, which makes me think the glass retailer I went to is wrong, but what do I know? I'm not a glass specialist.

 

[watertown28]

Thanks . . but that's odd.. I was sure I'd already posted in DIY Hardware as OldMan47 had suggested
Perhaps you've mixed me up with someone else?

I've managed to take the tank base off now, I used a very thin double edged razor, and once I had it halfway through, I used a sawing back and forth action whilst pulling it along down the seam. Still very tight in some sections, but I got there in the end.

Does anyone know if what the glass retailer ( they make windows ) is correct in saying it must be toughened glass for the size I'm needing?
From what I've read here, when people get cracks in their tanks, to me, it means they must have annealed/tempered glass or laminated, because if it was toughened glass, they'd not get a crack, it'd just shatter into thousands of tiny squares, which makes me think the glass retailer I went to is wrong, but what do I know? I'm not a glass specialist.

I do not see why it would be an issue to use normal glass. Tempered does not just leak where it just breaks and lets all your water out on your floor at once. I also understand it much harder to use tempered because all the cuts are done BEFORE the glass gets tempered... and you are going to have a hard time fixing edges once its tempered to the way it shatters.


How high is the tank? That is what is going to depend on how think your glass is.I can not tell if your listing height or LxW

Why are you taking the panes apart? If its just because it was leaking, there was no need to. I have resealed 2 tanks ( 72 bow and a 50 ) not needing to take it all apart.

 

[Applecart]

How high is the tank? That is what is going to depend on how think your glass is.I can not tell if your listing height or LxW
Why are you taking the panes apart? If its just because it was leaking, there was no need to. I have resealed 2 tanks ( 72 bow and a 50 ) not needing to take it all apart.

14.5" is the height of the front of one of the tanks and 30" long ( width? )

The other two sections are bases for tanks.

I removed one base 12" x 36" as it had cracked after I'd man-handled it and put it down awkwardly ( oops ) so it HAD to be removed.

The 14.5"x30" piece is the front glass of one tank as it was scratched in a number of places, then the 12x30" piece is that tanks base, and oneof th ecorners was chipped/has a piece missing, so I figured if I'm going to replace the front pane, I might as well get a new base pane at the same time.
-------

I've since bought a Rio 180 tank, so I'm not in a rush to repair the others now, but might still do at some point, but then again, I've seen how much decent used tank I can buy with my cash of late, it's only a little more than if I where to just repair those two tanks ( of which one only had a lid/light )

I thought the glass people saying I had to use toughened glass was weird also. If I do buy the panels, I should just insist on regular annealed glass. I've never known of any toughened glass tanks because as yo usay, they might be three times stronger, but if they do smash, it's all at once and into thousands of tiny squares. PLUS... I have no idea if toughened glass flexes like regular glass, so the outward water pressure on the front pane alone might be enough to shatter it? The more I think about it, the more I think that glass company are talking out of their cloaca

 

[watertown28]

How high is the tank? That is what is going to depend on how think your glass is.I can not tell if your listing height or LxW
Why are you taking the panes apart? If its just because it was leaking, there was no need to. I have resealed 2 tanks ( 72 bow and a 50 ) not needing to take it all apart.

14.5" is the height of the front of one of the tanks and 30" long ( width? )

The other two sections are bases for tanks.

I removed one base 12" x 36" as it had cracked after I'd man-handled it and put it down awkwardly ( oops ) so it HAD to be removed.

The 14.5"x30" piece is the front glass of one tank as it was scratched in a number of places, then the 12x30" piece is that tanks base, and oneof th ecorners was chipped/has a piece missing, so I figured if I'm going to replace the front pane, I might as well get a new base pane at the same time.
-------

I've since bought a Rio 180 tank, so I'm not in a rush to repair the others now, but might still do at some point, but then again, I've seen how much decent used tank I can buy with my cash of late, it's only a little more than if I where to just repair those two tanks ( of which one only had a lid/light )

I thought the glass people saying I had to use toughened glass was weird also. If I do buy the panels, I should just insist on regular annealed glass. I've never known of any toughened glass tanks because as yo usay, they might be three times stronger, but if they do smash, it's all at once and into thousands of tiny squares. PLUS... I have no idea if toughened glass flexes like regular glass, so the outward water pressure on the front pane alone might be enough to shatter it? The more I think about it, the more I think that glass company are talking out of their cloaca

Well the center braces are to support the bowing anyways. It does it on my 50 and my 72. The only reason why you would want tempered glass is if its at risk of taking someones leg off. I much rather have it crack and get a slow leak than a crack and it all is on the floor like I said.

IMO, I think that it would just be too much of a hassle to repair something like that. I mean you are taking about already sealed seams. From personal experience it was a pain to get all the old sealer off clean glass... I cant imagine having a much smaller area to work with. That and that is where your strength is. Mess it up and not get that one spot clean enough and your leaking.

With that said, I would save the money and get another tank. Its not like your just resealing this... to much work and to me, does not seem cost effective. You are right used tanks can be had cheap.