Rabbuts Slow Burner

Whoah, and here was me thinking you was taking it slow. Haha, fair play to you.

YF
 
Well, I can just about get the stand built and most of the coats of Varnish it will need on it before the start of the holidays. One of the two tanks will also be built (probably the display TBH) leaving the plumbing, sump, reactors, salt, RO unit, lights and Live rock to buy/build over my Christmas Uni break, 11 weeks after the start of term, so after the stand and a tank, progress will be REAL slow... Also, funds have to permit progress. If I don't get what I expect for the Discus, I won't be able to afford to buy the kit I need at Christmas, delaying the fill further untill the four week Easter break, 8-10weeks after the Christmas holiday :rolleyes:

All the best
Rabbut
 
how much do you think you will get for ur discus m8 cant wait for this bulid
 
Sounds like a great build about to start here...I'm way too lazy and normally take the off the shelf version,lol...good luck and can't wait to see it develop
 
Well progress has been made. The second load-baring frame is in the process of being built, the first load-baring frame for the stand is built, the weir is siliconed together, and there is just one baffle, a side and the back of the sump to go before the first "tank" is finished and ready for the water test... Pictures will follow later (the camera is still in the garage after deciding to write some "how to" guides for another forum, and possibly this one also :good:

Scot, I'm hoping for about £300 for the Discus, but it's starting to look un-likely to happen unfortunately. There are 7 days till I need to start shifting the Discus system, and I've only had interest in them, no offers to take them :sad:

All the best
Rabbut
 
Right, the Discus set-up is gone, the second load-bearing frame is built and partly planed, so all I have to do now is charge my drill batteries and finish planing it, then final assembly can begin :hyper: We are going with a Teak-matt finish for this one.

The sump is built and ready to be water tested this evening. The main display will be the next thing to be built over the next week :good:

All the best
Rabbut

I may get the RO unit or part of the lighting system next, but that relly depends. I keep now playing with the idea of installing halides again, since I have a full 45cm above the tank this time... With fans, the heat from halides should be easily manageable this time, and a second hand halide unit will be cheaper than LED's :nod: Hum decisions decisions...
 
I was surprised at how well I took them going, I was expecting them going to be far more emotional that it was. I miss them though, the dining room isn't the same without a tank in it with Discus in that greet me each time I walk thought the door :sad: I know they have gone to someone who will care for them though. That's the good thing about private sales of your stock, you can vet your buyers :nod:

All the best
Rabbut
 
*Copies an up-date from another form I now post on more regularly, as cannot be bothered re-writing it all...*

OK, pictures, here is hoping there isn't a maximum number of photos per post :-:eek: Before you complain Tina, you asked for it [001_tt2.gif]

The start of the tank build, raw glass from Leeds Glass, costing just £180 for both tank and sump, going into assembly. These pains of glass weigh a far bit, so you need to secure your base pain to the work-surface if you have any overhang...

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Now, once your pain is ready to glue, you wipe down the edge your doing with meths, and apply masking tape to make the silicone go where it's supposed to...

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Close-up there, you can see the dirt on the glass at the other side in this close-up. Repeate the process of cleaning and masking with the second piece you are gluing now.

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Run a bead of silicone down the back, ready to stick the back pain in

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Sit the second pain on the first and clamp into place.

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Run another bead of silicone down the in-side

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Lick your finger and run it along the bead to spread the silicone out and apply a good bondage to each pain

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Carefully remove the masking tape to finish

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Leave it 48 hours, or as long as your silicone manufacterer recommends, or until you can no-longer smell the silicone, which-ever is longest, before you take off the clamp.

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And continue with the next pain in the same way

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Here I add a baffle, in the same way again, using a block of wood to raise it up.

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Once your sides and baffles are all in place, you mask-up and apply the front pain to finish the tank off [thumbup.gif]

Next-post, tank frame building, well, some of it [blushing.gif]

But first, just for randomnesses sake, some pictures of the breeding pair of angels I had the their fry that I still have [laugh.gif]

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Hope you enjoyed. Will that keep you happy for a while Tina? [033.gif]

Well, there is water in it now, 200l/44g worth to be exact... The Live Rock is ordered, as is the egg crate to make the shelves with... RO unit has been ran for a long time each day since I finished setting it up on Friday...

You guys will want photo's, so here are a few more from about 2-3 weeks ago...

One of the stands load bearing frames...

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And because I was going to do a "how to build a tank stand" guide, here are some "in the process" snaps... I diden't take any of joining the two frames together though, so I cannot do that guide after all. Trust my memory... NOT!

Square the end of your piece of wood before you do anything with it. IME timber yard cut wood isn't ever square

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Measure and mark your piece length

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And add the piece to it place on the finished frame, so you can see where everything is going to go...

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Now mark your "Face Side", from which you will do all your marking. This is so that if there is an error with how you've set-up your marking gauge, the error is the same on every piece and hence does not make any loose/tight guides, provided you follow your lines properly...

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Now you have your face side, mark where all the pieces will overlap. One spot on each is enough, then use your tri-square to make sure you get a square line all round..

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Now you make the mortices and tenons. Make sure the sticking out wooden bit of your marking gauge is on the "face side" when you mark though, for the above mentioned reasons...

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Run a pencil down the marked lines to make them clearer to see. Shade the bits that you are going to remove, and ensure that the shaded bits do not match on the piece of wood into which that joint is going to fit. Now you cut out and glue the joint together.

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Now, the finished product in the water test

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Hope you enjoyed

Sorry if that hasn't formatted correctly, or if smiley are broken, as said above it's a direct copy and past job from two posts I put on another forum :blush:
 
Awsome, absolutely awsome.

Enjoyed your build of the stand, I'm now considering building my own when I eventually upgrade my tanks.

When is your live rock going to be delivered so you can start your new journey?

Reesy
 
Live Rock will be delivered on Wednesday (hopefully).

Seffie, tell me where I said I don't love this place any more? It's just a bit slow in the marine bit and I've kind of lost interest in FW... It's a good forum, but not offering me enough stuff of interest any more to make frequent (daily at one point when I was addicted to you lot) visits quite as worth while any more. Also, I'm having my spare time squeezed a bit ATM, so posting is sporadic from me across all forums I post on, not just here...
 

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