New Salty: My 29

[SaltNoob]

Hey,
I do not own a tank yet but have some questions?
Could many fish be in the same tank. Is it the bio load that limits the amount of fish in a 30 gallon or space because of this list about half are shy or tend to stay near the bottom so would this work in a 30 gallon FOWLR that later would be converted to reef?
Are they safe for a reef?
One Clownfish
One Six Lined Wrasse
Two Fire Fish (One Red One Purple)
Royal Gramma
Yellow Head Jawfish
1 Chromis
Pygmy Yellow Tail Angel
Citrus Clown Goby
Yellow Clown Goby
Pink Spotted Watchman Goby
Thanks

I do frequent water changes. The LR is the filtration...

In response to your list above regarding fish.

The chromis need to be kept in schools of 5 or more typically. One is unfair. I would not have more than one Goby either. They are aggressive towards one another especially in small spaces.

This is a lot of fish for this tank. Cramped space...

What kind of filtration do you use or do you just do frequent WCes

Hey do you own an anemone or know anything about them
your reading this right now

-Jared

Any one own a Condy anemone??? Anything about them in a new tank??? Compatibility???

Hey SaltNoob(Tyler) and Donya, thanks for keeping up on my build

BTW Donya, do you know what the white dots are on my pics???

The Condy Anemone requires strong light and should never be purchased if a good lighting system is not in place. It will do well in an aquarium with live rock and several crustaceans. Although a Condy requires a reef environment, it is not the best suited for the reef aquarium. The Condy Anemone moves around the tank and has a sting that can inflict grave damage to other anemones and corals. Do not include its natural predators such as the Red-Leg Hermit Crab. Unlike other anemones, the Condy Anemone does not have a relationship with any particular fish, and it is rare for any type of clownfish or damsel to reside within them.

You do not have lighting enough for most corals right now. Metal Halide would be preferred for this and most anemones.

-Tyler

 

[56jman]

Ok thanks, so its more of a space issue??? So I could do that w/ one goby and no chromis an a protein skimmer w/ WCs??? And will a protein skimmer cut down on amount of WCs???
Pics here on this link:
http/s1170.photobu...ms/r532/56jman/

Oh, do I have the lighting and flow for mushrooms??? What about a HOB w/out the biowheel and cartredge(however you spell it) and just a carbon insert and for water flow, good

"for most corals" which ones if not???

-Jared

 

[SaltNoob]

That link doesn't work?

A skimmer cleans out bio waste. It has nothing to do with the nutrients in the water. WC's replace things like calcium etc. So I would still do the same.. With a skimmer you could maybe do 10% WC's per week. I still like to do 25% each week. My corals grow like crazy and the fish are happy.

-Tyler

 

[56jman]

What is best beginner anemone for clowns too. Srry for all the questions I'm a begginer

 

[SaltNoob]

What is best beginner anemone for clowns too. Srry for all the questions I'm a begginer

IF! (and IF is a big word here), your lighting was up to par a Bubble tip Anemone would be great for them.

I will not likely have an anemone in my tank, so I have other things for them.

Anemones require a tank that is WELL established (months-1year).

I got a toadstool, it is baby and too small rightnow, but clowns will host them sometimes... My hopes are up. They also can host things like duncans and even mushrooms, but not a for sure thing at all.

-Tyler

 

[Donya]

BTW Donya, do you know what the white dots are on my pics???

I just scanned through the thread quickly again but the only link I see doesn't work. I don't see any other pictures. Do you have them posted elsewhere?

The Condy Anemone requires strong light and should never be purchased if a good lighting system is not in place. It will do well in an aquarium with live rock and several crustaceans. Although a Condy requires a reef environment, it is not the best suited for the reef aquarium. The Condy Anemone moves around the tank and has a sting that can inflict grave damage to other anemones and corals. Do not include its natural predators such as the Red-Leg Hermit Crab. Unlike other anemones, the Condy Anemone does not have a relationship with any particular fish, and it is rare for any type of clownfish or damsel to reside within them.

I was about to ask where this came from but I just found it on liveaquaria, so I presume that's the original source. I have to say that I like those guys a lot and find their info pretty good most of the time, but that bit above about the hermit crabs is frankly pretty weird - especially specifically calling out such a small variety as "red-leg hermits" (Paguristes cadenati I presume, as that is the term they use for the species elsewhere on the site). .Of course, many Crustaceans will try to steal food from anemones. This is an issue with basically all hermit crabs, all anemones, and even many corals like LPS and mushrooms and it CAN lead to death of the anemone/coral involved. However, it is alleviated by ensuring that the hermit crabs are fed just before the anemone/coral if they seem interested and by generally not keeping animals on the brink of starvation. Large hermit crabs like Clibanarius vittatus and Dardanus megistos are a bigger risk with large anemones, not really because of predatory behavior so much as for falling on anemones (physical damage can lead to infection) and/or accidentally becoming getting stuck in their tentacles and having a limb-thrashing freakout. Some anemones will try to eat a snared hermit crab, so the panic is not unjustified. Both cases can again be seen if the hermit crabs are lured into the anemone by the smell of food they can't get elsewhere. Also, in a last ditch effort to find food, desperately hungry Crustaceans may also cut open anemones and corals from the side to access what they have eaten. Again, the solution is not starving the CUC. It's possible that a large P. cadenati might be more likely to go after a really tiny Condylactis out of hunger or damage it accidentally, but a big anemone? That would have to be one very desperate little red fellow, as P. candenati stays pretty small compared to Condy anemones.

Not disagreeing with the lighting and other stuff in there as that's all bang on, but I have a chip on my shoulder about the amount of vague and junk info about Crustaceans that makes its way onto places like that.

This is a lot of fish for this tank. Cramped space...

Muchly agreed.


[quote name="SaltNoob]The chromis need to be kept in schools of 5 or more typically. One is unfair. [/quote]

Just to add to that: I've heard/read quite a few cases both locally and on other forums of people trying schools in smaller tanks that all resulted in fish being picked off one at a time (by other chromis) until only one remained. Given that chromis are also unhappy when solitary, it seems to be a no-win situation with nanos that only sets in as they mature. I've never read a good explanation for what the cause is but also haven't looked to thoroughly.

 

[56jman]

Mushrooms is my tank???

-Jared

Donya try the link at Pics-My 29 thread in Marine Journal

-Jared

 

[56jman]

What is this worm good/bad 1st two pics
Thanks

http/s1170.photobucket.com/albums/r532/56jman/
-Jared

 

[SaltNoob]

I thought this was a FOWLR... Are you making a reef tank?


-Tyler

 

[56jman]

Yes it is but just so I can wait a while on the lights... I would like to get some corals in that can use the light and setup I have now. I will get all reef safe fish so I can convert later.

-Jared

 

[56jman]

Btw I stupidly bought the API test kit that was for freshwater but measures ammonia nitrite, nitrate and high range ph so will it work for marine

Pics of it on the link above

 

[Donya]

Most API kits are ok for both fresh & marine, although ammonia is sometimes an exception. However, regardless of that, the main problem is that the color scales are usually somewhat different for saltwater, so you will not get a very accurate reading using the freshwater scales. On the other hand, for ammonia and nitrite (assuming you have the two-bottle ammonia version; my recollection is that the one-bottle version is the fw-only type), the main thing you need to be worried about is whether it's zero - and for that you can just compare it to freshly mixed saltwater that you know to have zero readings for both.

 

[56jman]

So your saying ot compare that to the fresh mix of saltwater??? What about nitrate+nitrite???
Yes I have the two bottle version

-Jared

Btw could I possibly take it to the pet store for a test after cycle???

 

[56jman]

Anyone had a pistol shrimp and Stonogobiops gobies??? Is it a cool relationship, easy???

 

[56jman]

Could someone please take a pic of their marine API test kit card (close up w/ nice camera) then post it on this thread. Please!!!

-Jared