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New Juwel 96 Tank - Fish/Plants/Cycle Log

Very nice, try and get some moss of some sort on that front section of the bogwood and maybe a bit on the top of it. And with that internal. can you get a knife and just cut the excess piping off. And maybe, when you need to cut the plants, put some tall plants to cover the internal.

And very very nice btw.

Thanks for the complements ... as for the piping, it actually just clips on, but it does not really bother me much ... maybe if I get hooked on all this I will change it :)

So do you think I arranged them OK in terms of back and foreground? Also I presume they will root in quite quickly? I am just a bit worried that if I put some Cories in there in a few weeks they will uproot them :)
 
Hi bushbrother,

Looks like you are doing a great job, getting started on your fishless cycle, working away at your stocking plan and discussing various questions! Good job!

With new plants in a new tank I'd probably not be worrying about their roots or corys, I'd be starting to learn a bunch of plant basics if possible. Try to find how many watts total you've got shining in there and figure out the watts/USgallon and report that to the members. How many hours are the lights on? Are you dosing any other fertilizers beyond the root tabs in the picture? Are you doing anything yet about carbon for the plants?

A new tank is pristine and free of all sorts of trace elements and assorted things, just the sort of environment to kill a plant! Now one good thing is that the fairly fresh tap water will have brought in a supply of calcium and a little iron, both good things, but plants have about 17 elements that they need in varying amounts and depending on how much light is "driving" them, they will begin to need all those in the right amounts.

A really nice and simple bit of advice that's been floating around from some of the plant members involves figuring out your watts/G and hours and adjusting those things appropriately and then using some "liquid carbon" (Excel or EasyCarbo are examples, but somebody can explain that further when you get to it) and dosing some of the wonderful stuff called TPN+ that's available readily over there in the UK (where I presume you are, though you've not filled in your location yet!)

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks for the additional comments. So I plan just to use the liquid nutrients/carbon that you meantion. Did not really want to mess with CO2 stuff just yet :)

I checked that the plants were easy growing ones, I just have the standard hood, Monolux 80, with one strip lamp and a reflector in it. I guess this might no be enough. I am putting the light on for 12 hours via a timer plug ...

Yes I am from the UK ... Profile ammended ;)
 
Some of the plant pros start out at 4 hours a day and work up to about 8 hours a day. You can use the timer to put a siesta inbetween the photoperiods so that you'll have more lighting hours when you're there to enjoy it.
 
I think that I would use the root tabs under the echinodorus which tend to be root feeders. Another product for traces in the US is called CSM+B but I don't know if the same is available in the UK. Almost any good trace mix along with the nitrogen from cycling and the P and K that are often among the minerals in tap water will get you going. Easy carbo is the stuff for carbon in the UK, it seems that the Seachem Excel is not readily available there. You will be getting some of the traces and other fertilizers that you need from having fiash that need feeding in your tank. If you stay with low light low tech approaches, it can provide all that you really need.
 
OK so lots of updates.

- I went and got some plant fertiliser and added that to the water, it is "Feropol 24" and you add one drop per 24 hours, I hope this is a good one :)

- Some plants don't look like they are going to make it and have partly turned to "slop" but most seem ok, I will remove the dying ones ...

- I finally got round to doing some filter media donation from my sisters BiOrb. I moved the sponge in some of the tank water over to the new tank and gave it a squeeze over my filter compartment (with power head off), then i took a couple of sponges out and rubbend them together a bit to leave some of the "muck" on my sponges, then I put it all back together and put the BiOrb sponge back.

- 2 days later (today) I checked the water ammonia levels and it has finally dropped from 5ppm to 2ppm :) I got excited and tested everything else using my Master API kit :)

Ammonia = 2pm
Nitrite = >5pm (but not purple drops, was 0 before)
pH = 8.0 (slightly down from 8.4 last week)
Nitrate = 40/50ppm (tap water is 10)

- So now I am a little confused, I am guessing that the media donation helped alot as I am getting different readings. I guess my Nitrate readings are up as there are some N-Bacs from the donation. So I wanted to ask what to do now. My plan was to keep reading ammonia till it hits almost 0, Then measure nitrates and nitrites. Then does to 3ppm and time the 12 hours and measure all agin. Then repeat this process till I get 0's after 12 hours?

Thanks!
 
Just a quick comment bout some fish. Pristella Tetras (also called X-Ray Tetras) are great. I got some gold ones, very hardy and peaceful and stay at a good size, espesh for your tank size. And also if your still set on some loaches, some khuli/coolie loaches would be excellent. Great lil things, great to watch and a low bioload. Just make sure they are in a big group. A lot more active then. Hope that helps with fish selection.

I love my loaches :shout: :good:
 
Just a quick comment bout some fish. Pristella Tetras (also called X-Ray Tetras) are great. I got some gold ones, very hardy and peaceful and stay at a good size, espesh for your tank size. And also if your still set on some loaches, some khuli/coolie loaches would be excellent. Great lil things, great to watch and a low bioload. Just make sure they are in a big group. A lot more active then. Hope that helps with fish selection.

I love my loaches :shout: :good:

Hey, thanks for the comments, I saw those guys @ my LFS, they looked cool :)
 
Anyone got some advice on my water stats and what i should expect next?
 
Well, if your mature media has indeed moved you in to the "nitrite spike" phase of fishless cycling (as you will find out if the nitrite(NO2) reading continues to be whatever value is highest for your test (what happens is that the concentration of nitrite gets to be quite a bit higher than what the test can show, so it just looks like the highest number) then the next thing to watch for is the day when the "spike" number (nitrite greater than 5ppm or whatever) finally makes a quick (often 2 days or all in one day!) drop to zero ppm. At that point you will find that it takes about 24 hours for it to drop to zero. If you are not already doing it, this is a good time to begin testing a 12 hours as well as 24 hours (at least for ammonia and nitrite) and you will probably see that nitrite is still there at 12 hours but gone at 24 hours. This goes on for a while until finally nitrite drops to zero at your 12 hour test. At this point you have to hope that ammonia is still also dropping to zero within 12 hours (sometimes it regresses and isn't processing as quickly as it was before, this is common) ...but anyway, eventually the day will come when both ammonia and nitrite(NO2) drop solidly to zero ppm in 12 hours or less after the ammonia dosing of 5ppm was added. At that point you can begin your "qualifying week" and if you are lucky it will perform for you all week without any backtracking (although the purpose of the qualifying week is of course to catch it doing this "backtracking" which is fairly often does!) After that week you can do the big water change and get fish with good confidence that your water chemistry will be quite stable for your first batch of fish!

~~waterdrop~~
 
Excellent, thanks waterdrop :)

Just another quick question, this cycling in theory gets the tank ready for full bioload, Is it best to get all the fish i plan for straight away or to get them in 2/3 "batches"? If I get them in stages do I risk the bacteria levels dropping and therefore the risk of mini spikes later when I make additions?
 
Yes, excellent timing for a standard and important beginner question!

Yes, 5ppm will more than prepare you for a full bioload, but whether or not you take advantage of it is totally up to completely different considerations! You see, the process of creating your "stocking plan" will lead you to a determination of the first stocking. It will all depend on which specific species end up in your plan.

Let's take an extreme example: If you were doing the rather rare thing of creating what we call a "species" tank, where the whole tank, water chemistry and aquascape would be devoted to a single species of fish and you were only introducing that type of fish and no other ones, and that species was of the type considered to be hardy enough to go into a new tank directly after the fishless cycle, then yes indeed, you would go ahead and do a full stocking, BOOM!

Or perhaps you were only doing 2 or 3 species and all of those happened to be extremely hardy and cheap.. well then they might all go right in too!

But in practice, what -really- happens 95% of the time is that most beginners are planning to create a "community" tank with quite a number of types that they've seen and like and which were what originally made them want a fish tank in the first place. Out of those, its very common to have one or two species that are either too delicate or for which one is going to have to pay a lot of money and so one wants/needs to hold off on those until the tank is still -more- mature!

The absolutely classic example of this are beginners wanting cardinal/neon tetra shoals. These fish are strange in that lots and lots of aquarists have observed that somehow they just have a much higher chance of living if they are introduced into a "6 month old" tank rather than a newly cycled tank. And that's -even if- the tank was well-cycled! So often a place is reserved for the neon shoal and not all fish are stocked immediately. The other example that's classic are "centerpiece" fish like angels or various cichlids and rams, some of which are either delicate or expensive or both. Its considered good practice in a lot of these cases to simply wait 6 months or so on these too, just to raise your statistical chances a bit too. Of course, one must recognize that there's plenty of variation about this depending on species and the individual situations people are in, not to mention opinions!

And just to make sure I didn't skip a basic part of your question: Yes, the large robust colonies of bacteria you've built up by the end of a good fishless cycling regimen will indeed "drop down" within a few days or weeks, to match whatever ammonia bioload they are presented with. BUT, that's of course exactly what you want in that you would always want your bacterial colonies to be too large at first. If they were too small then you'd just be back to a fish-in situation, which was what you were trying to avoid to begin with. So once you've switched to fish and done your first, hopefully pretty big, stocking, from then on you will have to observe the normal rules of only ever adding a small number of additional fish at a time. (I tend to think 2 or 3 smallish fish at a time but the experienced aquarists here may want to correct that or give a better guideline!)

~~waterdrop~~
 
Todays results:

Ammonia = 0ppm (down from 2ppm y'day)
pH = 8-8.2 (could not tell)
Nitrite = 5ppm (purple drops)
Nitrate = 0-5ppm (down from 50ppm y'day)

I am totally confused with the Nitrates ... how did they come down from 40 -> 5? Even my plain tap water is 10ppm maybe I messed up the test? I will try again a bit later.

Now I will dose to 5ppm again noting the time and try a 24 hr test ...
 
Todays results:

Ammonia = 0ppm (down from 2ppm y'day)
pH = 8-8.2 (could not tell)
Nitrite = 5ppm (purple drops)
Nitrate = 0-5ppm (down from 50ppm y'day)

I am totally confused with the Nitrates ... how did they come down from 40 -> 5? Even my plain tap water is 10ppm maybe I messed up the test? I will try again a bit later.

Now I will dose to 5ppm again noting the time and try a 24 hr test ...
You re-dose ammonia at the same hour (within the 24 hours,) right?

There are several factors about Nitrate measurements that make them "different." First of all, relatively inexpensive liquid tests for nitrate are pretty much doomed to not be very predictable or accurate. I had an analytical chemist explain that to me. Apparently measuring them is even tricky in an expensive lab. Secondly, the nitrate tests get worse if there are nitrites present in the test sample. In what way, exactly, the nitrites affect the outcome I'm not qualified to say but we never take them very seriously unless nitrites are zero. So, in fact we as hobbyists, in my opinion, don't really treat the nitrate numbers nearly as seriously as the ammonia, nitrite and pH numbers, which are more reliable tests. The nitrate numbers do become more useful later though, after you have fish.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks for the explination, that makes sense.

So this was my first 0ppm since the first ammonia dose, I added the 5ppm tonight @ 8pm so I can do 12 hour tests @ 8am before going to work and then 8pm coming home. I will post next readings soon :)
 

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