Ok - sorry to disagree with you Seffie - this is NOT a dominance problem.
In fact 'dominance' just doesnt happen between people and dogs (it does between dogs and dogs though) - because dogs know we are not dogs. To further confuse the issue, the things we tend to label as 'dominance' wouldnt be dominance even if we were dogs..... for instance some people claim dogs barging through doors first is 'dominant' behaviour. This is rubbish - wild dogs or wild wolves who are dominant would never rush through a narrow gap first - they would send a less valuable pack member through as who knows whats on the other side. The alpha is not going to risk ending up dead if there happens to be a hungry bear on the other side!
Anyway, i digress.
Firstly, quit telling Dog off for growling. Growling is a GOOD thing. Growling tells you 'I am uncomfortable, i feel threatened, if you threaten me further i may have to use my teeth'.
This is similar to you telling me 'hey get out of my personal space you make me feel uncomfortable, i am worried you may hurt me'. If i you said that to me and i kept getting to close, carried on doing the threatening thing - you might feel the need to punch me.
If i shout at you for telling me to back off, does that make you feel any LESS uncomfortable? Nope.
He may be barking at people through the fence because he is fearful of them. If the other dog barks as well he may think 'well im scared, and she barks so thats the thing we do, bark at stuff to make it go away'.
Again if you shout at him to stop and punish him for doing this, hes not going to like the thing he is scared of any better.
If you are scared of spiders and whenever you see one and scream i thump you, will you suddenly like spiders? Nope.
Obviously, the growling and barking need to stop - to stop them you need to figure out WHY they happen - they are just a symptom of an underlying problem, and id guess in Dog's case, fear/anxiety coupled with 'ive learned previously that this works'.
For the barking at stuff outside. Firstly, for now dont have him outside on his own without a human there with him. Take him out on a lead.
When he sees a thing hed normally bark at, BEFORE he starts yelling, quickly give him a load of treats, offer him a game with a toy. The idea is that if you do this often enough he will see the scary person or other dog or whatever and go 'hey that means i get a treat'. If you do it well enough and are fun enough, he will come looking for a human to reward him - if hes doing THAT, then he isnt yelling like mad at someone through the fence.
You can make life a little easier for yourself if you put up a fence he cannot see through. That would help a lot.
For getting him to get off furniture when you ask - you need to be completely NON confrontational. If you know taking his collar or yelling 'get off' at him will make him growl, dont do that. All you will achieve is either, scaring him so bad he doesnt growl, which means in the long run he will eventually bite someone (perhaps not you, probably someone he is not scared of so much), or he will just bite you before he gets to the point hes so scared he stops growling. Either way you will make him worse, not better.
Instead, spend time training him and get him used to the concept that if he does what you ask, he gets a treat.
Bear in mind when you think hes learned something, if he DOESNT do it despite there clearly being a reward on offer, then he actually DOESNT know the thing. Dogs dont turn down rewards to be annoying, its because they dont understand (or beecause what they are doing is more rewarding, if thats the case then you need to make what you are offering better!).
If you want him off the sofa, get his attention in a nice way, dont make out you are tryingto get him off the sofa, lure him away with a treat or a toy instead.
Practice this a lot and when he has the hang of it, start using the command 'off', as he gets off the sofa (not before, during him actually getting off).
Gradually you will be able to use the command first, he gets off, you give treat. Once that happens then work your way from having a treat visible in your hand to having it hidden,. then in your pocket, then over the other side of the room, then in another room - this is so you can ask him to do something and he knows he will get 'paid' for doing it even if you arent waving the treat under his nose. So you dont have to go everywhere with a pocketfull of treats.
For getting things he has taken away from him.
1/ Tidy up and keep htings you really REALLY cant let him have put away where he cant get them.
2/ Practice with a thing he really isnt bothered about, give it to him. Offer him a swap with a thing he REALLY likes (my dogs love a piece of cheese!) - so piece of cheese in return for boring thing, wow great deal he will swap!
Gradually work your way up from boring thing for cheese to really great thing for other really great thing (if he has favourite toys, get two of each one!).
Again as with the getting off the furniture thing, gradually introduce a 'leave it' or 'drop it' command, at first saying the command as he allows you to take something in return for his reward, then working up to saying it before hand.
Then again, work your way up from having the treat visible in your hand, to having it in another room, so you can always ask him to leave and he knows you'll go get a treat, you dont have to be worrying about him swallowing something he cant have whilst you find a treat to wave under his nose.
Nail clipping - it hurts, and he may well remember that someones hurt him. You dont even have to draw blood for it to hurt - just go squeeze one of your fingernails really hard to see how much it hurts when we squeeze shut nail clippers over a dogs claw.
Theres a great video
http/www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgEwiH8CeUE...ted&search= about clicker training a dog who rreally really didnt want his nails done. It is amazing and you can use clicker training to train pretty much anything you like! (just to show you how great this method is, THIS lady teaches these whole heelwork to music routines using clicker training - in this clip the dog is working for just ONE treat right at the end of the routine!
http/www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIfjWu0ASF0 )
To do these things you will have to spend time with him training him. You may as well spend time training him to do other things in the same way (reward him as he does something, then introduce a command as he does it, then use the command first).
The more time you spend with him training him in this way, rather than yelling at him, telling him no etc, the more rewarding he will find you. He will want to spend time with you and listen to you (hey you are the fun person with the treats!).
He will become more confident that you wont upset him or threaten him (dont forget YOU may not realise what you are doing comes across as threatening!), and he will be much less bonded to your Mom.
Again - hes anxious, hes dependant on your mom so its not surprising he scent marks in the house, as he becomes more relaxed and confident, as he realises that other people in the house are as rewarding or MORE rewarding than Mom, he will not need to do this.
If he is actually toiletting in the house rather than scent marking, you need to make a point of rewardinghim specifically for going outside (which if you make sure hes never out there alone, will be easy as you are right there to treat him when he goes).
Hope that helps,
Em