My Head Is Hurting

[Teacher Martyn]

I am literally in pain from reading different views on fishless cycling, doing my testing, reading more ways to fishless cycle, doing more testing, reading more about fishless cycling. Shall I go on?

Have a tank in my classroom to which I did none of this. Not sure what I did do, but I've never lost a fish (apart from when a decorator unplugged the heater) and the water is crystal clear, the fish are healthy and love each other and I didn't age ten years doing it.

Would I be right in thinking Robert Dyas' ammonia solution is weak in comparison to others?

Am now confused about when and if to do water changes during cycle.

I'm at the stage where I can see ammonia being processed, no apparent nitrite production yet seemingly some nitrate.

Aghhhhhhhhhh

 

[Prime Ordeal]

I am literally in pain from reading different views on fishless cycling, doing my testing, reading more ways to fishless cycle, doing more testing, reading more about fishless cycling. Shall I go on?

Have a tank in my classroom to which I did none of this. Not sure what I did do, but I've never lost a fish (apart from when a decorator unplugged the heater) and the water is crystal clear, the fish are healthy and love each other and I didn't age ten years doing it.

Would I be right in thinking Robert Dyas' ammonia solution is weak in comparison to others?

Am now confused about when and if to do water changes during cycle.

I'm at the stage where I can see ammonia being processed, no apparent nitrite production yet seemingly some nitrate.

Aghhhhhhhhhh

I've never used Robert Dyas ammonia but I believe it is half normal strength of most household ammonias at about 5%. Dose according to the calculator, using 10% as the strength of the ammonia, and if the resultant ppm is only half what you expect you'll then know and can adjust subsequent dosing to compensate.

Without even mentioning the science behind it, all I can say is that my cycling method never goes beyond the three week mark to completion. You pays yer money and takes yer choice.

My method in post number 23 here: http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/392471-fishless-cycle-starting-today/page__st__20

 

[Teacher Martyn]

I am literally in pain from reading different views on fishless cycling, doing my testing, reading more ways to fishless cycle, doing more testing, reading more about fishless cycling. Shall I go on?

Have a tank in my classroom to which I did none of this. Not sure what I did do, but I've never lost a fish (apart from when a decorator unplugged the heater) and the water is crystal clear, the fish are healthy and love each other and I didn't age ten years doing it.

Would I be right in thinking Robert Dyas' ammonia solution is weak in comparison to others?

Am now confused about when and if to do water changes during cycle.

I'm at the stage where I can see ammonia being processed, no apparent nitrite production yet seemingly some nitrate.

Aghhhhhhhhhh

I've never used Robert Dyas ammonia but I believe it is half normal strength of most household ammonias at about 5%. Dose according to the calculator, using 5% as the strength of the ammonia, and if the resultant ppm is only half what you expect you'll then know and can adjust subsequent dosing to compensate.

Without even mentioning the science behind it, all I can say is that my cycling method never goes beyond the three week mark to completion. You pays yer money and takes yer choice.

My method in post number 23 here: http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/392471-fishless-cycle-starting-today/page__st__20

Thanks. I think your method advocates no plants or lights, doesn't it?

Unfortunately, I'd already planted my tank up.

I have plants growing away nicely, some little snails (uninvited) running around doing their thing.

All it needs is fish.

 

[Lufbramatt]

if you have access to your tank at school, can't you "borrow" some of the mature filter media from it to kick start your new fishless cycle? You should be able to take a third of the media from the established tank (obviously replace this with new media) and put it into the new filter. That should cut your fishless cycles down to a week or two.

 

[Teacher Martyn]

if you have access to your tank at school, can't you "borrow" some of the mature filter media from it to kick start your new fishless cycle? You should be able to take a third of the media from the established tank (obviously replace this with new media) and put it into the new filter. That should cut your fishless cycles down to a week or two.

Done that.

The other tank has a filter that has a fixed-size filter medium 'unit' that slots in with a hollow central section for charcoal etc.

I snipped a slice off the filter material and emptied out the old charcoal and have stuck that in the filter in the new tank alongside the new media.

Thanks for the advice though.

 

[OldMan47]

I will fully support the methods given here on TFF which is contrary to PO's ideas, until I see some scientific evidence that supports his opinion. He has repeatedly refused to support his opinions with facts. Although he may be right, I want to know the scientific source of his opinions before I can support them. He is a wild card in cycling and I really want to get together with him on something we can both support. So far he has been proven to be nothing more than a conflicting opinion on cycling. As of now, I will no longer allow him to ride roughshod over our advice to new freshwater hobbyists.
Teacher you only need do water changes if you have any pH problems. Otherwise the ammonia and nitrites will be processed as we would normally expect. That means your cycle will proceed with no troubles from here on. A water change is only ever indicated by water tests. If you have ammonia or nitrites above 0.25 ppm, do a water change that will reduce them both below those levels. If your levels are acceptable using those standards, you can afford to wait for your nexrt water change.

 

[JDs4me]

I'm at the stage where I can see ammonia being processed, no apparent nitrite production yet seemingly some nitrate.

Aghhhhhhhhhh

I'm there too but with nitrite...your nitrate could be from the tapwater? Mine measures 40ppm!

 

[Rhiny]

I'm actually confused now as I was following the advice on the beginners resource page on this forum. I think I will stick to this advice going forward.

 

[Prime Ordeal]

I will fully support the methods given here on TFF which is contrary to PO's ideas, until I see some scientific evidence that supports his opinion. He has repeatedly refused to support his opinions with facts. Although he may be right, I want to know the scientific source of his opinions before I can support them. He is a wild card in cycling and I really want to get together with him on something we can both support. So far he has been proven to be nothing more than a conflicting opinion on cycling. As of now, I will no longer allow him to ride roughshod over our advice to new freshwater hobbyists.
Teacher you only need do water changes if you have any pH problems. Otherwise the ammonia and nitrites will be processed as we would normally expect. That means your cycle will proceed with no troubles from here on. A water change is only ever indicated by water tests. If you have ammonia or nitrites above 0.25 ppm, do a water change that will reduce them both below those levels. If your levels are acceptable using those standards, you can afford to wait for your nexrt water change.

Old man you really are a Luddite!

I've cycled over fifteen tanks with my method with only one going above the 21 day mark. I've supervised 20+ cycles over the internet using my method and only about three went over the 21 day mark. About five in that lot beat the 21 day mark by a couple of days.

Actions speak louder than words Old Man. You stick with your Model T Ford method and I'll sail smoothly along in my Rolls Royce.

 

[Prime Ordeal]

I'm actually confused now as I was following the advice on the beginners resource page on this forum. I think I will stick to this advice going forward.

Rhiny just pick a method and stick with it, they'll all get you there in the end.

However, if you use the method on this site be prepared for an extended 4,5 or six week (and potentially more) wait before it does cycle.

 

[Dieses Madchen]

My longest cycle was 26 days using the method in the beginner's section.......i cloned my other 6 tanks after that...

 

[cascadingwaters]

I am full supporter of live plants in a tank when it comes to cycling. I believe it gives the tank a extra boost while the filter gets started. I think your doing well enough, the live plants will do what they do, while the filter does the rest.

 

[Teacher Martyn]

I am full supporter of live plants in a tank when it comes to cycling. I believe it gives the tank a extra boost while the filter gets started. I think your doing well enough, the live plants will do what they do, while the filter does the rest.

On the basis of knowing nothing, I tend to agree with you. It just seems logical that the plants would aid the development of an ecosystem. The (uninvited) snails would also suggest the same.

 

[OldMan47]

Plants do not support a cycle but if you have enough of them you do not need to cycle. Enough is a relative term. This tank does not need a cycle to support the fish you can see near the tank glass. The plants use up every bit of nitrogen in the tank as fertilizer.

This tank does not have near enough plants to operate without a cycle so it got one.

We have a method given here in a thread that has worked fine for us for 10 years. It was developed with full input from various scientific sources. In have yet to see any evidence presented by anyone else that is more than a story told by the person promoting filter aids. I trust that person about as far as I could toss him with one finger. He has consistently refused to cite any source for his dubious claims except the advertiser's story.

Is that clear enough?