Byron is correct regarding that. A water conditioner (dechlorinator) like 'Prime' is actually really good at that.
Also, the salt you mentioned makes sense as part of the softening process.
Here is a situation where SALT is actually useful (short-term). All of your remaining fish are 'salt tolerant', meaning that you can use the heat and salt method to kill the ich.
Ich is a parasite that can be pesky to remove, but its not that hard if you catch it quick (its a secondary infection type thing that picks up when fish are dealing with other stressors).
Heat - raise the temp of the tank slowly to 84F. Increased temp will decrease the oxygen carrying capacity of the tank, so you'll need to increase oxygen gas exchange. Consider that this can happen any number of ways, an airstone is traditional, but something as simple as lowering the water level a bit to allow water to 'splash' into the tank from an hang on the back filter.
Next, you'll want to dissolve a tablespoon of salt into some tank water and put it into your tank, over the period of an hour or two (giving the fish a chance to adjust to the new salinity). About 12 hours later, you'll want to do it again. And about another 12 hours later, you'll want to do it one more time.
Ich can ONLY be killed in the 'free swimming' stage. Ich works like this: 1 - parasite sits on your fish and is visible. It sucks nutrients from your fish until it 'matures'. 2 - it falls off the fish as a cyst and reproduces before the cyst bursts and sends 'free swimmers' into your tank. 3 - the free swimmers will reattach to your fish, and the cycle starts anew.
The heat increases the speed of the life cycle. (Heat alone has been shown to kill ich, but at higher temps, and the temps would have to be at least 86F THROUGHOUT the entire tank, not just where your thermometer is.) The salt disrupts the free swimmers and won't allow them to reattach. The biggest key with ich is that it is NOT gone just when you see the fish are free of the parasites, its still in your tank. You'll need to keep up this treatment (only adding 3 tablespoons of salt for the tank your size), for at least 4 days AFTER the last day you see the ich on the fish. I'd suggest 7 days.
After that... you can remove the salt through water changes. 50% on day one and let the tank settle. The next day, 75% to basically remove the rest of the salt... regular maintenance water changes will deal with it the rest of the way.
Just for the sake of confirmation: your current stock is, guppies, mollies and phantom tetras?
Also, the salt you mentioned makes sense as part of the softening process.
Here is a situation where SALT is actually useful (short-term). All of your remaining fish are 'salt tolerant', meaning that you can use the heat and salt method to kill the ich.
Ich is a parasite that can be pesky to remove, but its not that hard if you catch it quick (its a secondary infection type thing that picks up when fish are dealing with other stressors).
Heat - raise the temp of the tank slowly to 84F. Increased temp will decrease the oxygen carrying capacity of the tank, so you'll need to increase oxygen gas exchange. Consider that this can happen any number of ways, an airstone is traditional, but something as simple as lowering the water level a bit to allow water to 'splash' into the tank from an hang on the back filter.
Next, you'll want to dissolve a tablespoon of salt into some tank water and put it into your tank, over the period of an hour or two (giving the fish a chance to adjust to the new salinity). About 12 hours later, you'll want to do it again. And about another 12 hours later, you'll want to do it one more time.
Ich can ONLY be killed in the 'free swimming' stage. Ich works like this: 1 - parasite sits on your fish and is visible. It sucks nutrients from your fish until it 'matures'. 2 - it falls off the fish as a cyst and reproduces before the cyst bursts and sends 'free swimmers' into your tank. 3 - the free swimmers will reattach to your fish, and the cycle starts anew.
The heat increases the speed of the life cycle. (Heat alone has been shown to kill ich, but at higher temps, and the temps would have to be at least 86F THROUGHOUT the entire tank, not just where your thermometer is.) The salt disrupts the free swimmers and won't allow them to reattach. The biggest key with ich is that it is NOT gone just when you see the fish are free of the parasites, its still in your tank. You'll need to keep up this treatment (only adding 3 tablespoons of salt for the tank your size), for at least 4 days AFTER the last day you see the ich on the fish. I'd suggest 7 days.
After that... you can remove the salt through water changes. 50% on day one and let the tank settle. The next day, 75% to basically remove the rest of the salt... regular maintenance water changes will deal with it the rest of the way.
Just for the sake of confirmation: your current stock is, guppies, mollies and phantom tetras?