Is My Guppy Bleeding Internally

Casperibz

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Hi there I got a few more guppies for my tank the other day, one is yellow but he appears to have a blood red mark on the top of him from his nose to top fin it's quite big like a oval shape coming 1/3 down his side on both sides he seems happy enough eating fine and swimming fine is it blood or swelling on his brain or something?
 
Is there any way you can take a photo of it, please?
 
Also, can you do a water test, and post current stats for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Thanks.
 
Are you sure it's not just the colouring of the guppy?
 
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I only litterally got him 2 days ago and the others seem fine for now, I did a water change just before I put the new one's into the tank took everything about and scrubed it and cleaned the bottom

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This was Wednesday when I got him

I'm going to the pet shop tomorrow to try get something to treat it, would you suggest this http://www.petshoponline.ie/fish-1/fish-treatment/api-ammo-lock-ammonia-detoxifier-118ml
 
I wouldn't want to recommend any medication at this stage, as I don't know what's causing the issue.
 
If you're off to the LFS anyway, I would suggest you buy a liquid-drop test kit - I'm assuming that since you didn't post up the water stats that I asked for, it's because you don't have the means to do so. This is a far better option than Ammo-Lock, which may or may not help the situation.
 
In the meantime, let's get a bit more info.
 
When was the tank set up?
How did you cycle it - ie how did you grow the bacterial colonies in the tank and filter that process ammonia and nitrite into nitrate?
What else is in the tank?
How big is the tank?
How big a water change did you do, and what dechlorinator do you use?
 
Tank was set up 2 years ago, I used the quick start bacterial thing, I did have more guppies and a lovely betta splenden but I got another couple of guppies a few months later from this dodgy pet shop should have realized when there was so many dead fish in the tank in the shop but everything died within a few days
 
I had a couple of guppies in there for the past year or so one died last week so I decided just to get a betta and a couple more guppies, so there's 3 guppies and a baby one that got put in by mistake in the pet shop and a betta.
 
The tank is 5 gallon.
 
I have a 44 gallon tank too with some African cillids, a barb and a bala shark too that's been going for 2 years too...
 
Probably about 40% water change, I have never used a dechlortinator I didn't even realize there was such a thing till the last few days I have just been buying the big bottles of water for tanks they sell in the pet shop every couple of water changes I was going to get API Tap Water Conditioner too when I go to the pet shop shortly.
 
I don't have a lot of money until Monday so can you recommend say the top 3 things I should buy now...

We have had the testing strips but we have run out, but the little tank was always spot on, the big tank was the nightmare...

My partner is usually always the one who tested it, he only ever mentioned pH and nitrate though, maybe those strips didn't test for chlorine and ammonia...

The pet shop is far away, we live in a tiny little village 40-50 minutes from anywhere so I will get the strips but if I could grab some other thing's that I will probably need depending on the results then it would be better if I could grab them now rather than going back..

I just found the boxes from the original setup we used Tetra Aqua - Batcozym and API Stress Zyme and we get the Supa Oxygenating Tablets
 
There's a few possibilities for the problem that I can see:-
 
1) Chlorine burn
2) Ammonia burn - if you've not been dechlorinating your water, it may well be that your filter has not had a chance to grow the beneficial bacteria it needs.
3) The betta - some bettas can't tell the difference between themselves and guppies - indeed some bettas are just so feisty that they don't tolerate any tankmates.
 
My instinct is that the betta hs taken exception to the guppies and managed to catch this particular one a bite on the back, which has then been exacerbated by chlorine and/or ammonia.
 
The paper test strips, I personally don't like them at all, they are notoriously inaccurate. The Tetra ones don't have a test for ammonia on there, which, IMHO, is the most important thing to be able to test for.
 
Definitely buy a water conditioner aka dechlorinator product. The API one seems a good one, although I have never used it. If they have Prime (which sadly I very rarely see in shops), that's the one that I use, as do most of the experienced aquarists on this forum. Thoroughly recommend it, but if they don't have it, the API will be perfectly good.
 
Definitely buy liquid-drop tests for ammonia and nitrite. You can get them singly, I use the Salifert tests, usually found in the marine section, but they can be used for freshwater. If not, the API tests will again be perfectly acceptable. If you have enough money for a Master Test set (which includes pH, nitrate, and others, as well as the ammonia and nitrite), then so much the better.
 
When you get home, work out how much of the dechlorinator you need for 5 gallons of water, and put it straight into the tank. Then work out how much you need for 44 gallons, and put it straight into the larger tank.
 
Then use the ammonia and nitrite tests (on both tanks) and pop the results up here, and we can advise what best to do next.
 
Ok I got the API 5 in 1 test strips, tap water conditioner and the man in the petshop said I needed melafix he was adamant so yeah got that too don't even know if it's necessary at all, I'll test water when I get home and post results
 
Right this is before putting anything else in
 
Small tank:

NO3 - 80
NO2 - 0
PH 7.5
KH 180
GH 180
 
Big tank:

NO3 - 160
NO2 - 0
PH 6
KH 40
GH 180

And just realized these don't test for ammonia super!

Oh ammonia is no3 ok right doh
 
The paper strips are pretty much useless. You are likely not getting any sort of accurate reading. I would see if you could return them for a partial refund or credit and get liquid kits as has been suggested above.

The best way to get rid of ammonia is to do a water change.

Do NOT put anything like Melafix in with a Betta. It really messes up their labrynth organ which enables them to breathe. The best medicine 90% of the time is clean, warm water. I would do a decent sized water change and get the appropriate testing equipment.
And no3 is actually nitrate.
 
They didn't have any liquid one's I did ask for a an alternative, I may have to purchase online...
 
If I'm to do a water change now with warm water from the tap, do I have to add that tap water conditioner again, I added it earlier...
 
Casperibz said:
Right this is before putting anything else in
 
Small tank:

NO3 - 80
NO2 - 0
PH 7.5
KH 180
GH 180
 
Big tank:
NO3 - 160
NO2 - 0
PH 6
KH 40
GH 180

And just realized these don't test for ammonia super!

Oh ammonia is no3 ok right doh
 
No, ammonia is NH3, NO3 is nitrate.
 
Without an ammonia figure, it's difficult to be sure, but with a nitrate figure that high, it would appear that the nitrogen cycle is established. But that all depends on the accuracy of the strips.
 
attibones said:
The paper strips are pretty much useless. You are likely not getting any sort of accurate reading. I would see if you could return them for a partial refund or credit and get liquid kits as has been suggested above.

The best way to get rid of ammonia is to do a water change.

Do NOT put anything like Melafix in with a Betta. It really messes up their labrynth organ which enables them to breathe. The best medicine 90% of the time is clean, warm water. I would do a decent sized water change and get the appropriate testing equipment.
And no3 is actually nitrate.
 
What he said.
 
Casperibz said:
They didn't have any liquid one's 
 
 
 
Seriously? I'd be looking to go to another shop, tbh. Where do you live?
 
Casperibz said:
If I'm to do a water change now with warm water from the tap, do I have to add that tap water conditioner again, I added it earlier...
 
Yes, you do, to be on the safe side. I'm not sure how long the dechlor is effective for, so, general rule of thumb, whenever you put tap water in an aquarium, use dechlor. I use buckets to do a water change, so I put the amount of dechlor for the bucket in first, then fill the bucket with water. That way, I use less dechlor. If you are filling the tank via a hose, then you will have to use enough dechlor to treat the whole tank.
 
I told you to treat the whole tank initially, to ensure that there was no chlorine causing issues. Now we have sorted that, we are maintaining this, so just treat the buckets. 
 

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