I know this is a hard one to answer...

[ostrow]

Heater is 6mo old or so. Rena Cal Basic 100W. Has a dial at the end of it that you turn to set temp (submersible). When it kicks on, it's visible that it's on (see the orange glow).

Cost like 10 bucks. No more.

But Danny -- YOU ARE IN FLORIDA!!! I'm in Chicago (brrrr....)

What about cm's statement that winter has more bubbles in the water? What if anything can you do about that? If let water stand, will be much cooler than the tank and that will affect tank temp, and risk ich.

 

[Danny - the lost soul---]

Alright the heater is not a hooky one so it should be fine. get yourself a good thermometor to assure temp is staying regular.

Yes I am in Florida but it is COLD here to. Well, no snow but cold. LOLOL Now cold to me is like anything below 50* LOLOL burrrrrrrrrr not snow bunny. LOLOL


I do not want to give oppisite advice if CM has already stated a fact. Now he / you are correct, if the water tyemp changes drasticly this can bring on ick. But, if you are doing a water change get water from the tub...... Feel the tamp and be feel you can guess ( timate) the temp between tank and faucet. Fill your bucket and let sit for a few minutes till water and conditioner mix well. this also allows the water to cool alittle if you got it too hot.

Hot this helps,
Danny

 

[ostrow]

oh. that's how i always do it. never attach a hose (cuz tub won't allow that! 1923 house and all!!! )

thanks!

 

[Danny - the lost soul---]

Alright, we got the meds and second dose thing figured out right ?
just remember to follow the tips and NOT to over dose.


For reff. : Most of this was replied via PM but I wanted to explain it on the thread.
This way CM can catch up and know what is going on since he has already advised on this topic. And give his take / experience on this next step. Everyone else, feel free to jump on in and share your experience.
Come on, don't be shy.
I answered a few PM's before I realized I should post info. ooops.

There are still signs of ick, and fish still looking rough and showing spots. Treatment is going on last day.
Recomended 25% water change and redose the tank. Only this time going 1/2 dose first day. them continue as bottle recommends. 1 drop per gallon every day for 5 days.
Also there was a concern on my part about a secondary infection being that they fish are still showing signs and by what I am told they are not acting right and breathing heavy.

As mentioned read the package for the Mari. 2 and you should be able to use both in combination. BUT,
if doing so 1/2 dose on both the first day so fish do not stress any more than needed. IMO/IME

Keep in mind the water chemistry is already off due to first treatment and the soon to be water change ONLY no more than 25%. If you are going to dose again.
Now when second dose is done you are going to want to do a good water change and fresh carbon to help clear up any meds left behind after water change.

Now personaly when I have to redose I do a small water change and dose regularly. 1 drop per gallon. BUT, knowing the condition of the fish allows so. (Not knowing I suggest 1/2 dose first day even second day IF fish seem stressed and or seem as though they are having trouble breathing / swimming. )

After 3rd day of second treatment if signs have cleared up I skip the fourth day. Check on fish, if no signs I discountinue use. Normaly this takes care of the problem and very rarely do I have another out break.

Now, keep in mind I have been doing this for awhile and have tried several methods and meds. Seeing the fish makes it easier to determine what course of action is best. IMO / IME.
I do NOT suggest cutting ANY treatment short. ALWAYS follow dosage then make your call after treatment is complete and results are known.

But, when re-treating a tank you do take a risk of shock to the fish IF they are already to weak to fight of the parisite / disease they are already suffering and fighting off. So I STRONGLY suggest to keep a CLOSE eye on the fish and tank during this re-treatment.

IMPORTANT though, when doing the water change try to add the new water with the temp as close as poss. to temp in the tank. the less stress on the fish the faster they will recover.

Good Luck and keep us posted.
danny

 

[cichlidmaster]

Well that will teach me to reply to a PM before updating myself on the board ) ) )

Ostrow,
I would follow what Danny has stated here in regards to the second treatment. I was not aware of the condition of the fish from your PM!!

I would keep in line with the 25 % instead of the 50 % water change I stated in the PM as Danny is correct in that the fish are under enough stress from the first treatment.

I would still add a few airstones to increase aeration (if not done so yet)

Great advice Danny.......

CM

 

[Danny - the lost soul---]

Heck, I took over where you left off. great team work better said.

It'll teach us BOTH to head straight to the board before replying to PM. I see you had one/few to. LOLOL...
I replied to a few before I realized that you may already have givin advice so didn't want to cause kaos. LOLOLOL

danny

 

[cichlidmaster]

Bout the bubbles.......

Let me clear up a little possible confusion here. I take my change water straight from the tap thru a potable (drinking water safe) hose.

When refilling tanks in this manner, I find, in my area amyway, that quite a few more tiny air bubbles form on the glass in the winter.

These tiny bubbles can also attach to the fish and if the bubbles get on the gills can interfer with the fish normal breathing and eventually kill them.

Since I do 70 % water changes at each change (nobody shudder as this has ALWAYS been my regular routine and the fish are quite used to it)this can mean death to the fish.

I have had this happen!!!!!!

The way I combat this is to fill the tanks in stages. 1/3 at a time. It takes awhile (especially when I do 30 tanks or more at a time), but is well worth the safety to my fish!!

I also use an aerator attachment on the end of my fill tube.

I will try to get some pics of my water change system and post it so all can see how a genuine fish nut does multiple (30 tanks at a time) water changes!!

CM

 

[slt]

now that should be interesting to see cm lol

 

[Cayote]

Should be a laugh !

Busy day eh ?

 

[ostrow]

Thanks everybody!

Sorry about the pm's. I was worried I was taking the back and forth too far, and partially worried because I needed an answer fairly quickly on the repeat treatment and didn't want to take a chance the thread would be missed.

Anyway, today is day 5 and it's indeed looking like I need to do a second round of treatment.

I'll keep an eye on them, and if all looks well after a few days may take Danny's advice and stop then.

I leave town Friday and don't want to have JUST completed meds and done water change without any time at all to monitor before departure.

It's been quite a turbulent week or two in this tank...

But thanks for the advice.

I used maracide instead of Quick Cure, but I must say right now I'm unsure. In the past, Quick Cure really cleared things up by day 5. Maybe this is just a persistent outbreak.

 

[Danny - the lost soul---]

Not a problem at all. thats what we are here for and ENJOY so very much.
Keep us posted as to the progress.

Sometimes I have found with meds like quick cure after using a few times parasite seem to fight alittle more. Almost as if they are becoming emune to the med. IMO/IME
Maracide, the way to go..
Good Luck,
danny

 

[ostrow]

This clown loach is in very bad shape. I still see just 2 white spots on him, but he's lying on his side all the time, sort of bent in the shape other fish look when they are already gone. He's still alive, but has that arced look, and seems pale and clamped. Not really gasping.

All others in the tank seem ok. I think one of the dwarf gouramis still has a single white spot visible on the tail.

Hopefully, the water change will help tomorrow, but I gotta do another round of treatment. Not looking good for him.

I'm still toying with the Maracyn 2. I wonder if there isn't something else but then again all the rest seem ok. Hmmm...

 

[Crashed]

Some old water pipes are made of lead (not good)
have you asked the water company what the pipes are?
the incomming pipes (property) are lead sometimes.

There is pre water treatment that can sort your tap water out
if your unsure you could use treated water for a while
to see if the problems goes way.

 

[ostrow]

Yeah, I'm thinking of the Aquarium Pharm "Tap Water Purifier" but it's pricey with the cartridges... and sloooowwwwww...

 

[Danny - the lost soul---]

okay dont over worry now. Even if the pipoes are old you are not sick so don't think it's that and go out and spend tons of fish bucks.
Ick and or the symptoms you explain are common in the hobby.
Clowns i have seen play dead at times but he does sound sick. Keep in mind that ick can atatck the gill plates and make life really hard for a fish with ick. He could have a secondary infection or a combination of both. I wouyld just continue as doing so and keep youre fingers crossed.
Danny