I came home to a dead betta..

[Emmet]

Can you double check the pH? Its a logarithmic scale so the difference between yesterday's 6.5 and today's 7.6 .is pretty big, although your first post did say between 7 and 7.5. As a control it is worth putting some tap water into a glass and testing it for pH after 12-24 hours. If its the API master kit test with both the pH and the pH high test. One of those will be off the scale - the other one is the one you need to use in future.

An interesting (but not essential) test would be to compare the NO3 in your tap water immediately before the water change. No need to wait as that won't change once it is out of the tap. This may provide a clue as to how far along your cycle is.

I'll begin now.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Can you double check the pH? Its a logarithmic scale so the difference between yesterday's 6.5 and today's 7.6 .is pretty big, although your first post did say between 7 and 7.5. As a control it is worth putting some tap water into a glass and testing it for pH after 12-24 hours. If its the API master kit test with both the pH and the pH high test. One of those will be off the scale - the other one is the one you need to use in future.

An interesting (but not essential) test would be to compare the NO3 in your tap water immediately before the water change. No need to wait as that won't change once it is out of the tap. This may provide a clue as to how far along your cycle is.

Ph also rises and falls during the day so test about the same time each day.

 

[seangee]

I've posted the product and the related information with it below too.

Does it say anywhere what the active ingredients are.

I am not questioning that it will do what it claims. The danger of chemically removing ammonia is that the bacteria that turns ammonia into nitrite actually needs ammonia to survive. Similarly the bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate needs nitrite to survive. If we simply filter the ammonia out those bacteria may never establish, and they are necessary in a healthy system.

 

[Emmet]

Does it say anywhere what the active ingredients are.

I am not questioning that it will do what it claims. The danger of chemically removing ammonia is that the bacteria that turns ammonia into nitrite actually needs ammonia to survive. Similarly the bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate needs nitrite to survive. If we simply filter the ammonia out those bacteria may never establish, and they are necessary in a healthy system.

No, sadly it doesn't. I checked online too, with no luck. Should I remove it?

 

[seangee]

No, sadly it doesn't. I checked online too, with no luck. Should I remove it?

I probably would. Right now everything is looking so much better than yesterday. Keep it up your sleeve in case things do get out of control or you aren't able to do a water change any time.

 

[Emmet]

The pH is definitely 7.2. I've tested twice now. Forgive me for the confusion and wrong results! Getting used to all these scientific tests!

 

[Emmet]

I'll begin now.

Can you double check the pH? Its a logarithmic scale so the difference between yesterday's 6.5 and today's 7.6 .is pretty big, although your first post did say between 7 and 7.5. As a control it is worth putting some tap water into a glass and testing it for pH after 12-24 hours. If its the API master kit test with both the pH and the pH high test. One of those will be off the scale - the other one is the one you need to use in future.

An interesting (but not essential) test would be to compare the NO3 in your tap water immediately before the water change. No need to wait as that won't change once it is out of the tap. This may provide a clue as to how far along your cycle is.

My parameters:

Nitrate:

- Tank: 20ppm.
- Tap: 5ppm.

 

[Essjay]

The PolyMedia look very much like the stuff called PolyFilter that used to be made by Underworld and is now made by Arcadia. It doesn't remove ammonia, but does remove organics such as medication and metals. Or at least that's what it did when it was made by Underworld.

 

[Jan Cavalieri]

All of what has been said is true - but some fish are very sensitive to stress, especially if they were under stress (in a little cup, for example) at the store - so just a tank change can kill those fish within hours. It just happens. For me the only time has been when I purchased fish at a big name pet shop and a shoddy "family" owned fish store who wouldn't refund my money since I couldn't produce a water sample from the day they died (that's because I immediately did a water change hoping to save my existing fish) - I lost 50% the same day I took them home from that shop. From now on I have an online store that I buy all my fish from - one source keeps your disease risk to a minimum, unfortunately they don't ship internationally due to all the permits required.

And unfortunately this store charges a bundle to ship (like $40-50 plus a $9 Styrofoam liner plus $1 for a cold pack). Their packing job is amazing. They are a supplier to fish stores and companies that set up fish displays - they only partially sell to individuals and they have rotten customer service - if their stock, including plants wasn't so superb then I would go elsewhere. So if you have any friends that have had positive experiences with a particular source for fish - use theirs rather than a local store run by High School kids.

 

[Jan Cavalieri]

Oh I'm just starting to use polyfilter in all my filters - it's also supposed to be a miracle worker at reducing cloudiness. It really is polyfill - same thing you stuff decorative pillows with. I put it in a little filter bag and stick it in there with the existing media. We will see if it helps with ammonia as well as my milky water in one tank.

 

[FishGuest5123]

All of what has been said is true - but some fish are very sensitive to stress, especially if they were under stress (in a little cup, for example) at the store - so just a tank change can kill those fish within hours. It just happens. For me the only time has been when I purchased fish at a big name pet shop and a shoddy "family" owned fish store who wouldn't refund my money since I couldn't produce a water sample from the day they died (that's because I immediately did a water change hoping to save my existing fish) - I lost 50% the same day I took them home from that shop. From now on I have an online store that I buy all my fish from - one source keeps your disease risk to a minimum, unfortunately they don't ship internationally due to all the permits required.

And unfortunately this store charges a bundle to ship (like $40-50 plus a $9 Styrofoam liner plus $1 for a cold pack). Their packing job is amazing. They are a supplier to fish stores and companies that set up fish displays - they only partially sell to individuals and they have rotten customer service - if their stock, including plants wasn't so superb then I would go elsewhere. So if you have any friends that have had positive experiences with a particular source for fish - use theirs rather than a local store run by High School kids.

I agree. I purchase all of my bettas from breeders.

 

[seangee]

My parameters:
Nitrate:

- Tank: 20ppm.
- Tap: 5ppm.

That's good news for you and your fish. The final stage in the nitrogen cycle (that we see in the aquarium) is the establishment of the nitrobacter bacteria. These are needed for the nitrites to be converted into nitrates. The fact that your nitrates are climbing means that you already have these bacteria. The fact that you still have nitrites means that you don't (yet) have enough of them.

Keep up with the testing and the water changes. Its nearly there.

 

[Emmet]

Hey guys, firstly I'd love to thank everyone who has sacrificed their valuable time to help me on this thread. I hope I can return this kind of favour when you need it.

I'm not sure if I should make another thread for this due to the fact all of my previous and perhaps current issues are laid out on this thread.

Before my white spot disease, I had two bamboo shrimp. Before introducing the medicine to my tank ( eSHa EXIT ) I removed the two shrimp and placed them in a 25-litre container as suggested to do so from the guy in the shop as he said the eSHa EXIT had copper in it and it would kill my shrimp.

Unfortunately, I listened to him and it resulted in one of my shrimp dying in the container. eSHa EXIT does not have copper in it. Once I found this out I placed my other shrimp back into my tank. He/She had a white fungus coat which I researched and found out it was harmless to all other fish and not much of a threat to the shrimp.

To my horror when I arrived home my other shrimp had died. They were perfect and I loved them for the two weeks I had them. I have 11 Neon Tetra's, 2 Flame Platy's, and 2 Blue German Rams. Would these bamboo shrimp help with my parameter problem or should I forget about them until a later date or select another option?

I'm off work tomorrow so I'm willing to spend the entire day putting everything I can into it as I'll be rather busy for the three days afterwards.

@seangee
@Deanasue
@Jan Cavalieri
@essjay
@Fishmanic
@PheonixKingZ
@Donya
@Lilyann

 

[Naughts]

“Would these bamboo shrimp help with my parameter problem or should I forget about them until a later date or select another option?”
Shrimp won’t help parameters. They prefer a mature tank so I would leave it until your tank is cycled and established. Adding plants is beneficial, as is regular water changes and maintenance, but I wouldn’t add any livestock until everything is stable. Good luck!

 

[seangee]

First things first.
Shrimp are far more sensitive to poor water quality than fish. So no shrimp until your cycle is complete and everything stable.
We still need to deal with the fact that you have 2 fish (the platys) in your tank that will not thrive in your water. This is worsened because they, and all your fish, have been weakened by their current experience. Keeping the platys is not out of the question but they will certainly have a shorter than usual lifespan.
Lastly the outbreak of ich (white spot), is probably directly as a result of the water conditions. For future reference the most effective way of treating this is to raise the tank temperature to 30C and keeping it there for 2 weeks - no medication is required. Once your tank is all clear if you keep up with weekly water changes of at least 50% and keeping the substrate clean you should never see ich again. You do however need to quarantine newly acquired fish as they can bring it in.

For now, stick to focusing on getting what you have right. Once you can provide a healthy environment you can re-visit this

Oh yes, in the very short term any living creature will make the problem worse.