/badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile13.html" target="_blank">http/badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile13.html</a> Its basic but gives you an idea of their requiremments.
? that dont sound to good to put in a fish tank lolHi
what other fish are in with the sick Clown loach? I thought it was by itself?
Its not really a good idea to add any fish to a tank which contains a sick fish. And please take the advice already given that Clown Loaches are way too big to keep in a 2ft tank. They can attain 12-16 inches in length. This was the 1st clown loach site i found on google <a href="http
Oh....the api liquid test kit will last you ages. With just one tank doing checks every other week, it will last you best part of a year.
Oh....one more thing. You said you got a new heater because you couldn't tell what temperature it was?? Have you got a thermometer in the tank? If not you really need to get one asap. The readouts on the heaters are just a guide and can be be 4 degrees or more out.
and i have one of those stickers on the side of the tank but that doesn't work
Hi
The degree readings on heaters can be way out. I have heaters that are set to 24 degrees but actually heats the water to 27 degrees. So if yours is set for the optimum temperature it may be that the water temp is higher or lower. Glass thermometers are only cheap
With regards the dechlorinator - You use the dechlorinator on water in the bucket before putting it in your tank, if you have a shop called The Range near you, they do some cheap dechlorinator. To get the right temperature, use cold water and boiled water from the kettle and use the thermometer from your tank to get the temp right
The test kits - I would suggest that you test for Ammonia and NitrItes to start with. If you are doing regular water changes your NitrAtes should be kept under control. Dont get confused between nitrItes and nitrAtes, nitr"I"tes are bad (like ammonia) and should be zero. nitr"A"tes you may find are up around 20-40 on the test kit, but this is fine as long as you do small weekly water changes. The other test you get in the kit is for ph, but i wouldn't start playing around with the ph as it is very easy to get it wrong. You get little test tubes with the kit that you just fill up with tank water to the line. You then just follow the instructions for each test. Just a warning - never let any of the testing solutions get in your tank and always rinse the tubes out in the sink afterwards.
Test once a week unless you have a problem. If your ammonia or nitrIte tests show anything but zero do a 25% water change and retest after 24 hrs.
Although books do go out of date, the basics have never changed i.e. temperature, dechlorinating, testing etc etc
nice one whenever i get to buying them i'll have another read over this to make sure im doing it right and if i boiled kettle water to heat it up that would be putting chlorinated water back into the water that i just left over night to lose the chlorine? lol
Hi
I'll try and be brief
If you leave water standing, it may remove the Chlorine but it will not remove Chloromines which are found in most water sources and are harmful to fish.
The simplest way to do a water change is -
1. Turn off heater and filter
2. Siphon a bucket of water from your tank and pour it down the drain.
3. Make a note of the temperature of your tank water.
4. Fill 3/4 of the bucket up with cold water from the tap.
5. Add a kettle of boiled water, and put the kettle back on.
6. Then add more cold or more boiled until the temperature of the water in the bucket is pretty much the same as the tank water.
7. When the temperature is the same, add the correct amount of dechlorinator to the bucket.
8. Stir it a bit.
9. Slowly add the water to your tank.
10. Turn heater and filter back on.
11. Make your Mum a cup of tea with the kettle you put back on at 5.
/www.loaches.com/species-index/clown...ia-macracanthus was rather amusing 
