Help Please! Cannot Identify Problem W/ Platy

alfiethefish

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I have had my platy fish for about three weeks now, and as of recently I've noticed some whitish (milky) spots on my red platy fish. I don't know if it's mold or ick, but it has spread within 2 days to both sides of his body, and a bit to his fin. Please advice what to do! And is it contagious?
 
IMG_8271.jpg
 
to me, it looks half like ich and half like fungal or a slime coat problem (mucous)
 
Looks like either excess mucus and or fungal infection. What are your water parameters?
Agreed, could be excess slime produced by the fish, as a reaction to harmful water (ammonia) in an uncycled tank.

OP, do you know about cycling, and did you cycle the tank?
 
Agreed, could be excess slime produced by the fish, as a reaction to harmful water (ammonia) in an uncycled tank.

OP, do you know about cycling, and did you cycle the tank?
I'm new to the aquarium community, I don't know the exact parameters, but I had my water tested recently at Petco and they said everything looked great. Could this harm my other fish? Is it contagious?
 
Did they give you numbers for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? It is quite common for a store worker to say the results are fine when they are not fine.


To explain in simple terms:
Fish poop ammonia, but this is toxic to them. In a 'cycled' tank, there is a colony of bacteria which eats ammonia and poops nitrite. Unfortunately nitrite is also toxic to fish, but in a 'cycled' tank another colony of bacteria eat nitrite and poop nitrate, which is less toxic than the other two.
Cycling is the process of growing these bacteria and it takes several weeks. It can be done with fish in the tank to provide the ammonia food for the bacteria, but unless daily water changes are done to keep ammonia and later nitrite at zero, the fish can be harmed.
It is now recommended to add ammonia from a bottle before fish are put in the tank so the bacteria colonies have already grown when fish are bought. This is what SlapHppy7 meant when he asked if you cycled the tank.

if you didn't add ammonia to grow the bacteria, you are still doing a cycle with fish as three weeks isn't long enough to cycle a tank.
This is why we need to know numbers for ammonia and nitrite as any number other than zero is harmful to fish.
 
It's excess mucous caused by poor water quality or something in the water that is irritating the fish.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for 2 weeks.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
 
Did they give you numbers for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? It is quite common for a store worker to say the results are fine when they are not fine.


To explain in simple terms:
Fish poop ammonia, but this is toxic to them. In a 'cycled' tank, there is a colony of bacteria which eats ammonia and poops nitrite. Unfortunately nitrite is also toxic to fish, but in a 'cycled' tank another colony of bacteria eat nitrite and poop nitrate, which is less toxic than the other two.
Cycling is the process of growing these bacteria and it takes several weeks. It can be done with fish in the tank to provide the ammonia food for the bacteria, but unless daily water changes are done to keep ammonia and later nitrite at zero, the fish can be harmed.
It is now recommended to add ammonia from a bottle before fish are put in the tank so the bacteria colonies have already grown when fish are bought. This is what SlapHppy7 meant when he asked if you cycled the tank.

if you didn't add ammonia to grow the bacteria, you are still doing a cycle with fish as three weeks isn't long enough to cycle a tank.
This is why we need to know numbers for ammonia and nitrite as any number other than zero is harmful to fish.
Thank you so much, good info.
 
It's excess mucous caused by poor water quality or something in the water that is irritating the fish.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for 2 weeks.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Thank you so much for your input and helpful advice!
 
Great advice above...you will need to test your water yourself, daily, and if ammonia is present, you need to do water changes with a good water conditioner to make the water safe for your fish.

Get one of these ASAP, and test for ammonia, nitrIte, and nitrAte, and post your results back here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/?tag=ff0d01-20

Also, get a good water conditioner, you will be adding to the tank during every water change....get either Seachem Prime, or API Tap Water conditioner.

We'll help you get the tank right, as soon as we know your numbers for the above tests.....good luck, fellow Texan :)
 
Hello everyone, I have tested my water (with the API Freshwater Master Kit) and here are my parameters: PH 8.0 Ammonia 2.0-4.0 Nitrite: 1.0 Nitrate: 0
I did a 24% water change, and bought both API Quick Start & API Ammo Lock, which I saw suggested.
 
You need to do a huge water change every day to get the ammonia down to 0 otherwise it will kill the fish.

Do a 75% water change every day until the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0ppm.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
 
Hello everyone. The ammonia is now at 0, but I can't seem to get the nitrite level down. I've been performing 25% water changes every 2-3 days, but the nitrite still remains high (at about 2.0-3.0) My fish all look fine. Also, within the past week & a half a lot of alga has built up...is this good, meaning I'm getting closer to a full cycled tank? I've been cleaning it. Thank you in advance.
 
Nitrite only appears when there are ammonia eaters to make it, and the nitrite eaters take longer to grow than the ammonia eaters did.
Nitrite at that level is dangerous to fish. It binds to the oxygen carrying sites in the blood and stops oxygen binding. It does to fish what carbon monoxide does to us.
You need to do a huge water change to get nitrite down to zero, then test every day and do a big water change whenever nitrite reads above zero. 25% every 2 or 3 days is not enough to keep nitrite down at zero.
 

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