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Flubendazole / other medication to have in stock ?

AlexT

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I'm not planning to turn my place into a fish disease pharmacy, and I am well aware of not treating a problem if you don't know what it is. But..... in terms of having a bottle or two to hand in case..... and due to work hours about to start, I won't always be able to get to a store for 2 or 3 days, although there is always Amazon and online ordering.

One thing I was planning to have in stock is Flubendazole such as this https://www.fishkeeper.co.uk/aquacare-anti-fluke-wormer-20ml

It came up in discussion as a potential (but still debatable) prophylactic for newly acquired Corydoras.

Is flubendazole also effective for external protozoa such as velvet and ick? Because if it is, and with it being recognised (I think) as quite filter and plant friendly, I'm wondering why more people don't use it?
 
Possibly my next alternative to have in stock might be a mix of Malachite Green / Formaldehyde, or just Malachite Green on it's own, but I am venturing into unknown waters now. Just thinking aloud really and inviting input. You don't need to write "don't treat if you don't know". Just exploring. I also know meds have a shelf life, hence not wishing to become a fish pharmacy.
 
I would not waste your money on drugs that will deteriorate (limited shelf life some of them anyway) and you may never need.
 
You've put your foot into a hornet's nest, as there is a big wing in the aquarium hobby that rejects medications.
I keep malachite green/formalin on hand in case I see Ich or velvet. I have to see it, because these are serious antiparasitics. I also keep methelyne blue on hand, maybe as an old habit.
I keep kosher or sea salt around, but as I have softwater/rainforest fish, I use it sparingly. It can be hard to remove, and is very harsh.
I would love to be able to get praziquantel and have it on the shelf. I avoid buying farmed fish, so levamisole is a med I've used 2 or 3 times in 50+ years. When you need it, you need it, but.

Beyond that, the remedies sold don't generally work, antibiotics are an art I'm untrained in, and they're illegal without a veterinary prescription where I am anyway. The herbal stuff is mainly to make us feel better about doing nothing concrete, and the homeopathic stuff is... homeopathic.

Most fish treatment is water changing and hoping you're lucky. We have very few diagnostic and treatment tools.
 
I know GaryE prefers medication to treat ich, but it can often be treated by heat. The water temperature is increased to 30 deg C/86 deg F and left at that level for 2 weeks, or 1 week after the last spot has disappeared. Yes there are heat resistant forms of ich and those do need a medication.

I agree on salt. Many minor infections can be treated with salt. Dosages given in post #2
 
No idea if Flubendazole treats external protozoan parasites. Praziquantel is meant to treat white spot and could potentially treat other types of external protozoa (velvet, Costia, Chilodonella, Trichodina). More research into this is needed. However, salt does treat the latter 3 parasites.

If you want to have anything on hand, have rock salt (aquarium salt), deworming medication if you plan on getting in a few fish, and a bottle of dechlorinator.

If fish act unwell or start to show signs of an illness, doing big (75%) water changes and gravel clean the substrate every day can dilute any pathogens in the water and slow the spread of the disease. And if the issue is caused by poor water quality (and it often does), the water changes will help with that too.

My go to for most diseases is clean water and salt.

As for white spot and velvet, warm water (30C/ 86F) for a couple of weeks and if it's not responding then get Malachite Green (aka Victoria Green) or copper. There are other ways to treat white spot and velvet, see post 16 in the link on this forum "What is ICH"
Copper is toxic to invertebrates (shrimp, snails, etc).
Malachite Green is a carcinogen (causes cancer).
Take your pick, they both work but both have drawbacks.


--------------------

SALT
Using Salt to Treat Fish Health Issues.

For some fish diseases you can use salt (sodium chloride) to treat the ailment rather than using a chemical based medication. Salt is relatively safe and is regularly used in the aquaculture industry to treat food fish for diseases. Salt has been successfully used to treat minor fungal and bacterial infections, as well as a number of external protozoan infections. Salt alone will not treat whitespot (Ichthyophthirius) or Velvet (Oodinium) but will treat most other types of external protozoan infections in freshwater fishes. Salt can treat early stages of hole in the head disease caused by Hexamita but it needs to be done in conjunction with cleaning up the tank. Salt can also be used to treat anchor worm (Lernaea), fish lice (Argulus), gill flukes (Dactylogyrus), skin flukes (Gyrodactylus), Epistylis, Microsporidian and Spironucleus infections.

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 

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