Fixing Juwel Light Bar.

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
You have a cold cathode ballast. This specific one supports (rather, supported) either one or two tubes.
 
You have a few options...
 
1.) Replace the ballast with another cold cathode type. This would be the easiest to do, but you would have to actually locate a cold cathode type. As you have seen, there are not many of these easily available. The only one I've seen recently is the Vossloh Schwabe ELXE 238 527 at approx £30.
 
2.) Examine the tube sockets. This are probably just clipped in. You may be lucky and find that they are either 2 wire sockets (the 2 wires would be joined together) or that you can open them and access the pin connections.
 
3.) Replace the existing tube sockets with 2 wire versions. This would enable you to use any ballast you wish that is rated for your tubes. There are at least two sorts available on Ebay.. One from the UK, the other from China. Links are given in one of the earlier posts in this thread. You would have to use waterproof sockets for safety reasons.
 
Sorry to say, but you cannot use a hot cathode ballast on a hood that is wired to support a cold cathode one. The ballast would self destruct very rapidly.
 
You can identify the ballast type by examining the schematic that is normally printed on the ballast housing. If each tube is shown with 4 wires (2 per end) then you are looking at a hot cathode ballast. If the schematic shows 2 wires per tube (one per end) then you have a cold cathode ballast.
 
Be aware that manufacturers don't advertise their ballasts as either hot or cold types. The only way to be certain of the type is to examine the ballast schematic directly.
 
Cold cathode ballasts are often referred to as "quick start", "fast start", "rapid start" or something similar...  However the marketing divisions of the same firms seem to delight in confusing the issue with their choice of advertising descriptions...
As said above, the only way to tell for sure is by examining the ballast schematic.
 
It might pay to take the old ballast to your local electrical wholesalers and see what they have in stock or can order for you.
There are other cold cathode ballasts around, but they are certainly less common than the hot cathode types.
 
I'll have a quick look on Ebay and see if there is anything there at the moment.
 
I'll post again later...
 
Bodge99

 

[Adeylee]

Thanks for the reply that has definitely answered my questions. I have resigned myself to re-wiring the tube sockets, at the moment there is only one wire going to each socket and this seems to be only connected to one side of the socket, am i right in thinking i can just wire up the other sides and then get myself the tridonic PC 2/18 T8 PRO (hot cathode)

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
**IF** you can open the tube sockets to access the connections then you can certainly add a second wire to each socket. You then could use any ballast (hot or cold cathode type) that is rated for your tubes. Don't forget to test that the two pin connections are actually electrically isolated from each other.
 
You'll need to use solid core wire. I have used 1mm lighting cable "in a pinch" but this is not really recommended.
 
I cannot see any 2x30W cold cathode ballasts on Ebay at this time.
 
One other possibility...
If you have the DIY skills and tools available, it might be possible to retrofit new sockets inside of the existing shells...
 
Good luck.
 
EDIT: Sorry, I was under the impression that you have 2x30W T8. If you do have 2x18W T8 then the Vossloh Schwabe ELXE 238 527 ballast is no good for you. You would need the ELXE 218 526 if you decide to go this route (cold cathode ballast).
 
Bodge99

 

[Adeylee]

Yes you are correct i currently have the 2x18W T8 and the VS ELXe 218 526 (Faulty) Cold Cathode Setup
 
The tube sockets have a white cap over them that can be removed allowing access to the pin connections where it seems that the two pin terminals are isolated from each other and all i would need to do is put some solid core wire into the empty terminal where it has a /} sort of thing thus making a hot cathode type setup (2 wires from each end of the tube). I was also thinking of using 1mm solid core, why is this not ideal and would you be able to advise on a better core size to use.
 
I will be then getting the tridonic PC 2/18 T8 PRO (hot cathode),
This seems like the much cheaper option than trying to source the old VS 218 (£30) 
 
Thanks again for your guidance.
Adrian

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
I agree with the decision to save money... I **like** saving money!!
 
It sounds like the pin sockets are a push to make connection type.. You may be able to solder them as well if you have any doubts as to their "solidness".
 
No problem with the wire diameter of lighting cable.... It's just that the insulation resistance of this stuff is not rated to the same high voltage as the recommended wire. The recommended stuff is normally slightly thinner.. about 0.8mm or so ( I think!).
 
I've tested typical household 1mm^2 lighting cable to over 2,000V.  There was no indication of any insulation breakdown at all.
If you would prefer to use the proper stuff, then try your local electrical wholesaler. Ask for solid core HV wire suitable for fluorescent tubes.
 
You could use an extra layer of insulation over the individual wires if you wish. Earth sleeving is available from your local Screwfix (miles of the stuff for about a fiver). If you decide to use 1mm lighting cable, strip the outer sleeving off and use the individual insulated conductors (obviously not the bare earth conductor!).
 
Keep each tube wire pairs the same length. Ideally, each pair should be the same length per tube.
 
You will now be able to use any ballast (either hot or cold cathode types) that is rated for your tubes.
 
Hope this helps...
 
Well done for getting this far!
 
Any questions at all... just ask here. Nobody is born knowing this stuff!
 
Good luck!
 
Bodge99.

 

[zero4]

Hello guys,
I have bought new ballast as well as the old one died, 
could you please help me and instruct me how to connect it ?
 
 
Old one :
 

 
New one :
 

 
Please if someone know how to connect it help me.
 
Thanks

 

[zero4]

Sorry thats the new one  :

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 

 
OLD                  NEW
 1                         1
 2                         2
 3                         3
 4                          *
 5                          *
 6                         5
 7                         6
 8                         7
 
 
* Connect "Old" 4 and 5 together. See some of the earlier posts/threads for some connection tips if you require it. Please **DON'T** just twist the wires together and tape them up!!
 
If you have any problems or questions, then just post here...
 
Good luck!
 
Bodge99.

 

[zero4]

Thanks !!!!!!!!!!! Will try this out tonight  

 

[shiggybiggs]

Anyone know how long the ballast in the 240/300 bar is?
 
Cheers.

 

[Applecart]

I kind of cheated... I've gone RGB LED for now...

it's fairly bright rated around 72 watts using 3 metres of 5050 smd LEDS  and since they're RGB, you can have just about any colour hue or brightness you like. I use a pinkish white usual hours, and a deep purple/blue on very low at night.

 
I've since torn this one out though as it wasn't actually waterproof as advertised! grrr.. the condensation managed to get under the clear silicone 'waterproofing' it came with, so I'll buy a fresh reel and then build a clear acrylic case to put it in.

Very reasonable 'temp solution' at £26 though 

 

[Applecart]

should have said, the driver is rated at 72 watts, but that is how much 5 metres of the 5050 SMD's would take, so mine is running around 43 watts at full brightness. 

 

[stewoods1]

Hello, 
ive got a second have a juwel vision 180 and the light unit only has one bulb and there is no caps for the bulbs, so the prvious owner has done a diy repair.
how would i rectify this, like what ballast to buy, caps etc?

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
Is this your unit ?? http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juwel-92cm-High-Lite-2x35w-T5-Replacement-Light-Unit-Includes-Tubes-Vision-180-/360690146883?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item53facede43
 
If so, then it appears that 2x35W T5 should be fitted... You **MUST** use waterproof tube sockets for safety reasons.
 
Now, you have several options.
 
1). Purchase a complete new unit... (ouch!)
 
2). Obtain the correct clip in tube sockets, correctly rated ballast (supporting 2x35W T5) and bring the unit back to original spec.
 
3). Use "another" type of waterproof socket.... more below.
 
4). Move to a LED set up.
 
T5 waterproof sockets:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T5-end-caps-tube-holders-waterproof-holders-1-pair-/151133095779?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item23303c0763
 
If you have room.... (and wish to use) T8 waterproof sockets:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juwel-End-Caps-Waterproof-T8-Fluorescent-Lamps-Holder-marine-fishtank-aquarium-/251349443489?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3a859823a1
 
You could also use these:
http/www.aquaworld.ie/56,555,waterproof-tube-socket-t8-26mm-1m
 
in conjunction with some tube clips:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-T8-Fluorescent-Tube-Holders-1-Terry-Clips-25mm-Clip-on-Tools-Other-Uses-/360545680051?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item53f2327ab3
 
Both T5 and T8 sizes are available. These are just the first ones that I found... Google and Ebay for the best prices.
 
Now when you have your sockets sorted, beg or borrow a tube to check what length of tube you need. The tube length will dictate the power rating that your ballast must have.
 
Assuming that you will need 2x35W T5 tubes... You just need a ballast that supports 2x35W T5 **specifically**. This is very important as long tube and ballast life is dependent on this being correct.
 
I recommend that you buy an electronic ballast as these have several advantages over magnetic ballasts.
One thing to consider is do you want to fit a dimmable ballast? This just requires an additional switch to be added to the hood.
 
If you have any questions or require any further help with anything at all then just post here...
 
Bodge99

 

[stewoods1]

thanks for your reply, i will post a pic of the lights atm, its crazy 

the waterproof tube socket is what it has now, but it only has one bulb, does this mean the previous owner has cut out the wiring for the second bulb?