Fishless Cycling

[aaronc]

Sounds like a good plan squid. I will try that.

Its more than likely to be something like that, as I already have a very low PH because of the soft water in this area

Thanks
Aaron

 

[rdd1952]

djceri_q, You don't necessarily need to do that with the cup. It was really just an example although people have done it in situations where their power has gone off in the summer and the water temperature starts to rise, driving out oxygen. I would definitely get a more accurate pH kit. Although pH is not important in cycling tank (it will be all over the place as the ammonia rises and falls) you will want to keep a check on it after you add your fish. And the difference of a full point in pH is huge.

aaronc, I wouldn't do anything different until you are absolutely certain the cycling process has stopped. Give it a couple more days. If the ammonia still isn't being processed then you may need to make a change. As for your low pH, the soft water would actually mean you had a low KH (buffering capacity) which could make the pH drop if you have things like driftwood or peat that lower pH. A low pH isn't necessarily a bad thing. Some fish, such as angels and a lot of tetras, love lower pH water. Another good thing about low pH is that the toxicity of ammonia drops as the pH drops. Once pH reaches the low 6s, ammonia actually changes to it's non-toxic form of ammonium. That won't bother he cycling process though as the bacteria will still feed on the ammonium.

 

[aaronc]

I do have drift wood in there, should I take it out?

 

[rdd1952]

Not necessarily. It really depends on the type of fish you want to keep. As I said, some fish love low pH. There are things you can do to help buffer the pH such as adding a small amount of crushed coral to the filter pack or even just handing it in the tank. Stay away from the pH adjusting chemicals because they will keep your pH in a constant swing up and down. A stable pH, whether it be low or high is always better than one that is up and down. Most fish can adjust to a stable pH that isn't optimal for them but all fish will struggle with one that isn't consistent.

 

[aaronc]

Ok, if it isn't going to mess up the cycle I will leave it in there

Thanks
Aaron

 

[aaronc]

Here are some stats to see if they explain the stall in cycling

GH - 100mg/l
KH < 10mg/l
PH 6.6
Ammonia 1ppm
Nitrate > 100ppm
Nitrite > 3.3ppm
Phosphate 2.5 > 5.00 - not too sure

The ammonia does go from 3-4ppm to one in under 12 hours, just doesnt seem to be going any further

Hope this sheds some light on it

Thanks
Aaron

 

[Underwurlde]

@aaronc,

I wonder what your tap water tests out at? (IF you're using tap water of course)...

Regardless, I'd be tempted to do a large 50% water change.

Andy

 

[aaronc]

I can test the tap water.

I have already test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate which are all at 0

Aaron

 

[djceri_g]

djceri_q, You don't necessarily need to do that with the cup. It was really just an example although people have done it in situations where their power has gone off in the summer and the water temperature starts to rise, driving out oxygen. I would definitely get a more accurate pH kit. Although pH is not important in cycling tank (it will be all over the place as the ammonia rises and falls) you will want to keep a check on it after you add your fish. And the difference of a full point in pH is huge.

aaronc, I wouldn't do anything different until you are absolutely certain the cycling process has stopped. Give it a couple more days. If the ammonia still isn't being processed then you may need to make a change. As for your low pH, the soft water would actually mean you had a low KH (buffering capacity) which could make the pH drop if you have things like driftwood or peat that lower pH. A low pH isn't necessarily a bad thing. Some fish, such as angels and a lot of tetras, love lower pH water. Another good thing about low pH is that the toxicity of ammonia drops as the pH drops. Once pH reaches the low 6s, ammonia actually changes to it's non-toxic form of ammonium. That won't bother he cycling process though as the bacteria will still feed on the ammonium.

Dohh! How silly of me about the cup!I also have a film on top of the water.

 

[aaronc]

I have done a 50% water change to try and sort the ph crash out.

PH is now at about 6.6 - tap water is 6.8-7

Also added more Ammonia to bring it back up to 3ppm

Lets hope that helps

Aaron

 

[rdd1952]

aaronc, you mentioned that your pH was 6.6. That is almost a perfect pH for most tropicals. Mine runs about 7.0 from the tap and drops to 6.4 to 6.6 in the tanks. I have tetras, cories, angels, SAEs, shrimp, kuhli loaches and a pleco and they all are doing great. If it's 6.8 to 7.0 out of the tap, 6.6 means it's staying rather close to the tap water. And during cycling, the pH will be every where depending on how much ammonia is in the water when you test it so don't be concerned with it. If your nitrite is only 3.3 but nitrates are 100 or more, it sounds like your cycle is almost complete. The nitrite should really be off the chart high (while cycling it would probably eventually test out well over 10 ppm if test kits could measure that high). The water change probably didn't do anything positive ofr negative other than lower your levels. Just keep adding ammonia and testing.

 

[aaronc]

Hi rdd1952

Should have said... the nitrite scale only goes up to 3.3 lol

Added more Ammonia last night, and it has processed it down to 1ppm in 8/10 hours. Just doesnt seem to want to go any lower

Thanks
Aaron

 

[Squid]

The water change probably didn't do anything positive ofr negative other than lower your levels. Just keep adding ammonia and testing.

Rdd,

I have to disagree with you there..(even though i learnt most of my fishless cycle stuff from you )... If things are not changing then it probably won't do much, but aaron mentioned that at one point things were going in reverse. In this situation i have found that you do need to do something. Mine halted twice (and went in reverse), but after a water change this kicked the cycle back into action. I did try leaving it for a while and the situation got worse. worst case scenario is that it took a bit of time, but in both of my cases it helped. I had a long and painful fishless cycle, but got there in the end.

Squid.

 

[Dr. Bogger]

I wonder if I need to do a water change also... because my ammonia has halted.

 

[aaronc]

It is very wierd, seems to be happening to fair few people now.

Straight after the water change I added 3ppm of Ammonia which was gone in 12 hours, last night I added another 3ppm and 14 hours later it is still at 1ppm

I really wanted to get my fish this weekend