Fish rescue rainbow shark

[WhistlingBadger]

Get them into clean water as soon as possible! The shock of the change probably won't hurt them as much as the pollution.

As for the shark: If 'twere me, I would rescue the cories and rehome the shark. Or even euthanize it, if you can't find a home. It's cold, hard reality: You probably can't save them all, without jeopardizing the fish you already have, but you can save some of them, and that's a lot better than nothing. Decisions like this are one of the reasons I never take on rescue fish unless they are something I truly wanted anyway.

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

Welp, I ended up drip acclimating them for a little over an hour, and moved their original water with the mix of my water to the QT tank.

Usually I'd want to get them out of the high Nitrate water as soon as possible too, but wouldn't they have a case of old tank syndrome? Where they've gradually adjusted to the super high nitrates etc, and then too large a water change too quickly can kill them? I do plan to do daily W/Cs until they've adjusted and then large regular water changes, but I thought changing it too drastically too quickly was also risky??
Rainbow shark definitely won't be staying, because s/he started to harass the blue gourami almost immediately after adding the shark (I added the others first). That's the large blue gourami the shark has been living with for a couple of years, so nope, won't even be testing it out with my cories, or anything else.

I used a pen to measure, that's a six inch shark

 

[Slaphppy7]

My LFS uses UGFs in all of their tanks, and they never clean them...I've tested their water in the past, after bringing fish home. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrItes, but nitrAtes through the roof

I've always quickly put the fish into clean, fresh water in my cycled QT tank, and it has never harmed them...they color up and become very active within just a few hours

Just FYI

 

[WhistlingBadger]

Welp, I ended up drip acclimating them for a little over an hour, and moved their original water with the mix of my water to the QT tank.

Usually I'd want to get them out of the high Nitrate water as soon as possible too, but wouldn't they have a case of old tank syndrome? Where they've gradually adjusted to the super high nitrates etc, and then too large a water change too quickly can kill them? I do plan to do daily W/Cs until they've adjusted and then large regular water changes, but I thought changing it too drastically too quickly was also risky??
Rainbow shark definitely won't be staying, because s/he started to harass the blue gourami almost immediately after adding the shark (I added the others first). That's the large blue gourami the shark has been living with for a couple of years, so nope, won't even be testing it out with my cories, or anything else.

I used a pen to measure, that's a six inch shark
View attachment 165609View attachment 165610

Wow, that's a huge, beautiful shark. I bet you have a pet store or business with a semi-aggressive display tank somewhere nearby that would love to take him.

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

I've been told s/he's called Sharky, originally enough! Female? Pretty chunky mid-section, can't see any black lines in the tail, but does have a deep colour. Pretty fish, shame they're a@$$h*£#s.

Bear in mind, that's the colour of the water AFTER diluting it with clean...


Single very stressed oto. Quite a large one! Same length as the cories

Blue gourami and cories were also super stressed, they're looking better now they're in the QT tank, especially now I've moved 'Sharky' to a different tank. Good thing my old tanks hadn't sold yet!

Anyone able to ID the cory species, by any chance? I know not brilliant photos, stressed and pale fish, and there are a few that look similar to this! Think it's two males and a female judging by size/chunkiness, but I've no idea the type of cory. Will get better photos once they've settle a bit, can see more orange colouration in them now they've de-stressed a bit, especially behind the head and on the shoulder. @DoubleDutch @Naughts @Byron @GaryE ?

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

My LFS uses UGFs in all of their tanks, and they never clean them...I've tested their water in the past, after bringing fish home. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrItes, but nitrAtes through the roof

I've always quickly put the fish into clean, fresh water in my cycled QT tank, and it has never harmed them...they color up and become very active within just a few hours

Just FYI

Wow, that's a huge, beautiful shark. I bet you have a pet store or business with a semi-aggressive display tank somewhere nearby that would love to take him.

I'm so confused! lol. I believe you, @Slaphppy7 , I do! I'm gonna give them a couple of hours to chill since they've been through a lot already, then I'll do a large water change on the QT. I'll do one on Sharky's tank now because that fish seems angry at the world, not stressed, lol. What confuses me though is why are large water changes a risk when a tank has old tank syndrome, if the fish can adjust so rapidly to clean water when moving the fish to a clean tank? I don't get the chemistry involved! @Essjay ? Any ideas why the difference?

@WhistlingBadger Related to above, yes, I found a couple of stores that would be willing to take him! I wouldn't have agreed to take any of the fish if they wouldn't, because I didn't think he'd work out in my tanks, knew finding a home for one wouldn't be easy, and I couldn't bring myself to euthanise such a beautiful, healthy looking young fish. She said they got him about 2 years ago, so it's still pretty young too. I understand the position and why you'd say that, but I can't do it, and no need to, if the store will take him.

But related to that, the good store I spoke to, the one I took my cory fry to, when I explained that I was asking not because I had an unwanted fish, but because I wanted to adopt a tank of fish, but didn't have a suitable tank for a rainbow shark, explained that they test the water and try to match it, like if the water the fish comes in has super high nitrates, putting it straight into their QT tank would be risky. So now I'm even more confused!

 

[Slaphppy7]

I'm so confused! lol. I believe you, @Slaphppy7 , I do! I'm gonna give them a couple of hours to chill since they've been through a lot already, then I'll do a large water change on the QT. I'll do one on Sharky's tank now because that fish seems angry at the world, not stressed, lol. What confuses me though is why are large water changes a risk when a tank has old tank syndrome, if the fish can adjust so rapidly to clean water when moving the fish to a clean tank? I don't get the chemistry involved! @Essjay ? Any ideas why the difference?

@WhistlingBadger Related to above, yes, I found a couple of stores that would be willing to take him! I wouldn't have agreed to take any of the fish if they wouldn't, because I didn't think he'd work out in my tanks, knew finding a home for one wouldn't be easy, and I couldn't bring myself to euthanise such a beautiful, healthy looking young fish. She said they got him about 2 years ago, so it's still pretty young too. I understand the position and why you'd say that, but I can't do it, and no need to, if the store will take him.

But related to that, the good store I spoke to, the one I took my cory fry to, when I explained that I was asking not because I had an unwanted fish, but because I wanted to adopt a tank of fish, but didn't have a suitable tank for a rainbow shark, explained that they test the water and try to match it, like if the water the fish comes in has super high nitrates, putting it straight into their QT tank would be risky. So now I'm even more confused!

Tanks that have been neglected for a long time usually have many other issues besides high nitrAtes

The tanks at my LFS DO get WC's, but the filters are never cleaned, so TBH, I wouldn't really classify those tanks as having OTS

What Is Old Tank Syndrome in a Freshwater Aquarium?

Old Tank Syndrome refers to more than just the age of the tank. Learn the signs, how to prevent it, and how to fix it if it happens.

www.thesprucepets.com

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

Tanks that have been neglected for a long time usually have many other issues besides high nitrAtes

The tanks at my LFS DO get WC's, but the filters are never cleaned, so TBH, I wouldn't really classify those tanks as having OTS

What Is Old Tank Syndrome in a Freshwater Aquarium?

Old Tank Syndrome refers to more than just the age of the tank. Learn the signs, how to prevent it, and how to fix it if it happens.

www.thesprucepets.com

But see, that's what I mean. These fish almost certainly come from a tank with old tank syndrome... it was messy and murky, only had a blue light on the tank because the daylight bulb had gone, and these were the last survivors in the tank. I feel sorta bad saying these, because the owners were really lovely and do seem to care about the fish, but the sky high nitrates and yellow water say a lot really, you know? But then, my dad's tank had pretty bad old tank syndrome too, and he's not a terrible person or uncaring, he's just old school and doesn't understand the cycle or old tank syndrome. But I read a lot about how to fix it then, and this article you linked says the same thing;

"Slow and steady are the keywords for correcting old tank syndrome. Don't make any sudden massive water changes. The tank may be clean, but the fish will all be dead. Instead, perform smaller, daily water changes of 10 percent to 15 percent until the water parameters are all back to normal. Monitor the ammonia and pH closely, testing on a daily basis initially. If the ammonia should rapidly increase, skip the water changes for a couple of days and add an ammonia-reducing product. Test the nitrate levels weekly to determine if they are dropping to normal levels, as expected."
So if it's dangerous to do a large water change immediately on a tank with OTS, shouldn't it be just as risky to catch those fish and move them to a tank full of clean water? @Colin_T I've seen you also advise slow and steady, small water changes in those cases, what do you think?
@Slaphppy7 perhaps the store thing is that they do get regular water changes (and usually haven't been in the tanks for that long) and store tanks are usually small but heavily stocked, but it's not quite the same thing as OTS, like you said?

 

[Slaphppy7]

@Slaphppy7 perhaps the store thing is that they do get regular water changes (and usually haven't been in the tanks for that long) and store tanks are usually small but heavily stocked, but it's not quite the same thing as OTS, like you said?

I think you are right about this...

 

[DoubleDutch]

I've been told s/he's called Sharky, originally enough! Female? Pretty chunky mid-section, can't see any black lines in the tail, but does have a deep colour. Pretty fish, shame they're a@$$h*£#s.
View attachment 165612View attachment 165613View attachment 165614


Bear in mind, that's the colour of the water AFTER diluting it with clean...


Single very stressed oto. Quite a large one! Same length as the cories
View attachment 165615

Blue gourami and cories were also super stressed, they're looking better now they're in the QT tank, especially now I've moved 'Sharky' to a different tank. Good thing my old tanks hadn't sold yet!

View attachment 165616
Anyone able to ID the cory species, by any chance? I know not brilliant photos, stressed and pale fish, and there are a few that look similar to this! Think it's two males and a female judging by size/chunkiness, but I've no idea the type of cory. Will get better photos once they've settle a bit, can see more orange colouration in them now they've de-stressed a bit, especially behind the head and on the shoulder. @DoubleDutch @Naughts @Byron @GaryE ?
View attachment 165617View attachment 165618View attachment 165619View attachment 165620View attachment 165621View attachment 165622View attachment 165624View attachment 165625View attachment 165626View attachment 165628

The smaller ones look like C.leucomelas but not that sure. The bigger one c102 ?

 

[AdoraBelle Dearheart]

The smaller ones look like C.leucomelas but not that sure. The bigger one c102 ?

Oooohh, I wondered if the biggest one might be a different species! I think you're right about the the smaller two being likely C. leucomelas, they look a lot like the images, thank you! I'm gonna have to get some more clear photos when I can, hopefully when they've coloured up more

 

[Naughts]

OTS- The problem is not normally the nitrate change, it's the associated pH. In your case the new tank has good water so the nitrogen compounds won't be an issue. But with OTS there are nitrogen compounds PLUS a low pH caused by decomposition- carbon is acidic-, it's OK as low pH water has ammonium. But when the water is changed the pH is raised and it becomes the much more toxic ammonia. There will be an element of pH shock too.

 

[GaryE]

For the sake of all that is good and holy, take that pen out of the water! Rainbow and red tail sharks write really hurtful notes when they get a chance.

 

[Byron]

There are two different factors involved in old tank syndrome: the water parameters, and the water conditions. They relate, but changes have very different impacts upon the fishes.

If the parameters have deteriorated, they will have impacted the conditions. The GH, KH and pH were mentioned in the linked article, and they are important not so much for what level they are at, but for what they do to the conditions. And it all depends upon the parameters of the source water. In a nutshell, if the source water is normally at say pH 7.5, it will usually lower with the accumulation of organics, both solid and dissolved. This is one reason we do regular water changes and filter cleaning, and (depending) substrate cleanings. The pH may lower below 7.0, and this means any ammonia occurring from the decomposition of all the organics will be ammonium which is harmless to fishes. A substantial water change with basic pH water will quickly convert that ammonium back into toxic ammonia before the bacteria can deal with it, and the fish die. So be aware of the pH especially, in the source water and the tank water.

As for the conditions, referring to the ammonia/ammonium, nitrite and nitrate...any rapid water changes to reduce any of these is beneficial, always. And the sooner the better. However, this is if the pH remains acidic where that ammonia remains ammonium. Nitrite and nitrate are not subject to parameters in the same way. As water with ammonia or nitrite, or high nitrate, is detrimental to fish period, it is always wise to do as many substantial changes to eliminate ammonia and nitrite, and get nitrate as close to zero as quickly as possible. These three forms of nitrogen are toxic, and there is absolutely no benefit in "slowly" reducing any of the three. Just keep the pH in mind.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

As for the conditions, referring to the ammonia/ammonium, nitrite and nitrate...any rapid water changes to reduce any of these is beneficial, always. And the sooner the better. However, this is if the pH remains acidic where that ammonia remains ammonium. Nitrite and nitrate are not subject to parameters in the same way. As water with ammonia or nitrite, or high nitrate, is detrimental to fish period, it is always wise to do as many substantial changes to eliminate ammonia and nitrite, and get nitrate as close to zero as quickly as possible. These three forms of nitrogen are toxic, and there is absolutely no benefit in "slowly" reducing any of the three. Just keep the pH in mind.

I believe this is why so many experienced people recommend the "drop and plop" method with mail order fish: Gradually acclimating the fish can actually cause worse problems than simply equalizing the temperature, netting the fish, and plopping them into their new home.