First time cycling tank

kurtmussel

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Hello! So I have been cycling my tank for about 3 weeks now. Just yesterday my ammonia was at 0ppm my nitrites were 0ppm and my nitrates were 5ppm. I dosed to 4ppm ammonia since I read a lot of mixed reviews about dosing to 2ppm or to 4ppm. Then I waited 24 hours and my ammonia is back to 0 ppm, however my nitrites are at 2 ppm and my nitrates are 20 ppm. Should I wait til my nitrites come down and dose again with ammonia?
 
You should be following somebody's directions for cycling, so do what they say your should be doing here.

There is a fishless cycling article here which gives step by step instructions including test readings. But is uses 3 ppm of ammonia.
https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
I was following dr Tim’s but they say it only takes 2 weeks to completely cycle a tank. After reading different websites/forums, the consensus seems to be it takes longer than that. I feel like every time I look at a different way to fishless cycle it doesn’t say what to do if after 24 hours ammonia and nitrites aren’t 0. I will read the article you linked though, thank you
 
At the speed your nitrates where produced. You're all good... Wait until nitrites are 0 again.

Do a massive water change and add all your fishes at once.
 
At the speed your nitrates where produced. You're all good... Wait until nitrites are 0 again.

Do a massive water change and add all your fishes at once.
Do you think the 24 hours is a loose rule to follow? Like as long as my nitrites get to 0 again and it doesn’t take several days, that should be okay?
 
Yes, if your nitrite drops fast and dissipated tomorrow and nitrate rise accordingly. It's rolling... No need to make them rise overly.

If you continue to add large amount of ammonia you're building a larger colony. Yes... But this will fire-back with stronger nitrate rises that you will need to wash out, depleting the first two from their food source at the same time.

If your tank digest 4 ppm of ammonia --> nitrate within 24-48 hrs.

You have a strong colony going... Waiting more will tempt algae.

Strike the iron while hot.
 
Yes, if your nitrite drops fast and dissipated tomorrow and nitrate rise accordingly. It's rolling... No need to make them rise overly.

If you continue to add large amount of ammonia you're building a larger colony. Yes... But this will fire-back with stronger nitrate rises that you will need to wash out, depleting the first two from their food source at the same time.

If your tank digest 4 ppm of ammonia --> nitrate within 24-48 hrs.

You have a strong colony going... Waiting more will tempt algae.

Strike the iron while hot.
Thank you very much for your feedback! I appreciate the insight.
 
The article here is designed to be "idiot proof." That means if one follows it as directed you can not screw it up. It is also very cl;ear about when to do what. I based it loosely pn Dr. Tim's methodology which I felt was far from idiot proof. And when I did my first cycles i was and idiot. Later on I actually exchanged a few emails with him (at least a5 years ago). I changed his method to make t impossible to mess up. Bwlow are his directions for doing a fishless cycle.

Whatever the source of your ammonia, the following is the way to proceed. Add the ammonia solution to the aquarium so that the ammonia concentration is between 2 and 3 mg/L (but, as mentioned, do not go above 5 mg/L). Record the amount of liquid you added. If you are not using DrTim’s One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria, wait 2 or 3 days and measure the ammonia and nitrite. Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days until you start to see some nitrite. This is a sign that the ammonia-oxidizing bacteria are starting to work. Add half the initial amount of ammonia you added to the water on day 1. Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days. Around day 9 to 12, the ammonia will probably be below 1 mg/L, maybe even 0, but nitrite will be present. Nitrite does not spike until somewhere between days 14 and 20. You want to be careful adding more ammonia because you do not want the nitrite-nitrogen over 5 mg/L as this will start to poison the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria. Add a little ammonia every few days (1/4 dose), making sure the nitrite does not go above 5 mg/L. Once you start to see the nitrite decrease, it will drop pretty fast. The cycle is completed when you can add the full dose of ammonia (2 to 3 mg/L-N) and overnight it all disappears to nitrate with no sign of nitrite. Now you can start to add fish.

The first thing you probably do not know is that there are two sacles used for testing the 3 nitrogen levels that concern us. One scale is favored by scientists and is called the nitrogen scale. All it measures is the N in NH3 (ammonia) NO2 and nitrite and NO3 (Nitrate). But most of out test kits in the hobby measure using the Total Ion scale. This counts the H (hydrogen0 and the Os (oxygen).

Dr. Tim writes this 2 to 3 mg/L-N the -N means as notrigen. So, if your are using a typical test kit like the one by API, those numbers need to be converted from the nitrogen scale to the total ion scale. Also 1 mg/l = 1 ppm.

So 2 ppm of ammonia-N = 2.56 ppm ammonia on the TI scale, and 3 ppm = 3.84 ppm ammoniaon the TI scale.

When Dr. Hovanec says not to allow ammonia or nitrite to exceed 5 ppm as nitrogen, the numbers on the TI scale are
5 ppm of ammonia-N = 6.4 ppm TI
5 ppm of nitrite-N + = 16.4 ppm TI

Here are the factors for calculating between the two scales.

NH3 = NH3-N * 1.21589
NH4 = NH4-N * 1.28786
NO2 = NO2-N * 3.28443
NO3 = NO3-N * 4.42664
Assumed atomic weights: H: 1.008, N: 14.007, O: 15.999

I see no reason for using more than 3 ppm on the TI scale which is why it is used in the fishless cycling article here.
 

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