Do amazon swords need Root tabs? Or can they be fine with no fertilizer/Leaf zone?

Ive changed my plants, Ill have 5 in total. A carpet of tinyleaf, with some dwarf hairgrass in the background. A large anubias attached to driftwood which is covered with Christmas moss, some Bucephalandra in the middle, and Aponogeton to cover the right.
 
The only thing to be aware of with black sand is that some fish don't "like" it and I believe it can cause them to produce additional melanin to change their pigment. I'm not sure if it would affect the specific fish you're going for, but something to bear in mind.
 
Why not with substrate fish? Is it too rough? And I cant get plecos anyway, my tank is too small. Ill have a carpet, so my betta wont hurt its fins.

Substrate colour matters especially to fish that live down on the substrate. Like cories, which on black will release melanin in an attemp to better blend in to the dark, and this causes stress and we all know or should know that stress causes over 90% of all disease issues in an aquarium. Cories live over normal sand, and their colours are intended to reflect that, so white or black is always bad. The problem with white is usually the tank light; in nature there are some cory habitats with close-to-white sand but there is no bright lighting to cause issues for the fish.

Roughness of the substrate matters again to fish that live on it, more than upper fish. But that is another factor than the colour. The particle size also matters, again more to the fish that actively interact with it, like cories filtering sand through their gills.
 
I have chosen seachem flourish root tabs to buy. Since no one opposes the black sand, and it is inert so it wont affect water quality, I think I got a good plan.
Those are great root tabs. Just inert sand is good. I like white sand, and my fish like it too. I use the Aqueon liquid plant food, it's a really great fertilizer.
 
I'll either use black sand or normal sand, and the black sand is apparently inert. The plan for the tank. Is a marimo moss ball, 3 shrimp, 3-5 neon tetras, and a betta. I've been able to keep 4 guppies in a 5 gallon alive ( and seem to be happy) for around a year, until they pass. I should be able to keep this bio load with a 10 gallon and the plants.

Problems, very serious ones, with the fish here.

First, neon tetras are shoaling, and that means they need minimum around 10. A scientific study on the effects of too few numbers with shoaling fish included this species, and found that in all cases, a group of 3 and a group of five developed aggression, and a latency to feed. Groups of ten did neither. It is clear that the fish's well-being and health is affected by how many of the species is present.

Second, no upper fih are advisable with male bettas, and neons are one of the worst, probably due to their colouration. Many years ago before I knew what I do now, I was sitting in front of my aquarium and my beautiful red betta opened its mouth and good-bye to the neon tetra. These things are in the species genetics, we cannot change them. And I am not an aquarist who thinks it sensible to experiment contrary to known fact. It is not likely to end well. And it is inhumane.
 
Problems, very serious ones, with the fish here.

First, neon tetras are shoaling, and that means they need minimum around 10. A scientific study on the effects of too few numbers with shoaling fish included this species, and found that in all cases, a group of 3 and a group of five developed aggression, and a latency to feed. Groups of ten did neither. It is clear that the fish's well-being and health is affected by how many of the species is present.

Second, no upper fih are advisable with male bettas, and neons are one of the worst, probably due to their colouration. Many years ago before I knew what I do now, I was sitting in front of my aquarium and my beautiful red betta opened its mouth and good-bye to the neon tetra. These things are in the species genetics, we cannot change them. And I am not an aquarist who thinks it sensible to experiment contrary to known fact. It is not likely to end well. And it is inhumane.
Oh I didnt know they needed schools of 10! Know any other fish that can go with bettas well? Ive kept sunset tequila guppies with one to decent success.
 
Do you intend to attach the buce to more wood? it's another plant which rots in the substrate.
I might attach to a rock which will be buried under the substrate if thats the case. I did that with my Anubias and its thriving.
 
Problems, very serious ones, with the fish here.

First, neon tetras are shoaling, and that means they need minimum around 10. A scientific study on the effects of too few numbers with shoaling fish included this species, and found that in all cases, a group of 3 and a group of five developed aggression, and a latency to feed. Groups of ten did neither. It is clear that the fish's well-being and health is affected by how many of the species is present.

Second, no upper fih are advisable with male bettas, and neons are one of the worst, probably due to their colouration. Many years ago before I knew what I do now, I was sitting in front of my aquarium and my beautiful red betta opened its mouth and good-bye to the neon tetra. These things are in the species genetics, we cannot change them. And I am not an aquarist who thinks it sensible to experiment contrary to known fact. It is not likely to end well. And it is inhumane.
I might get a female betta, since Im going for short fins. Long fin bettas get swim bladder easily apparently. My last betta died of swim bladder, and I wasnt able to buy medicine since I was on vacation.
 
Substrate colour matters especially to fish that live down on the substrate. Like cories, which on black will release melanin in an attemp to better blend in to the dark, and this causes stress and we all know or should know that stress causes over 90% of all disease issues in an aquarium. Cories live over normal sand, and their colours are intended to reflect that, so white or black is always bad. The problem with white is usually the tank light; in nature there are some cory habitats with close-to-white sand but there is no bright lighting to cause issues for the fish.

Roughness of the substrate matters again to fish that live on it, more than upper fish. But that is another factor than the colour. The particle size also matters, again more to the fish that actively interact with it, like cories filtering sand through their gills.
I did some research, and I think I would like cories in a small school of 4 maybe. I should get natural sand, but do you have any reccomendations for sand? links appreciated.
Also, do corys fight with shrimp? Im planning to have 3 shrimp with the cories.
 
I did some research, and I think I would like cories in a small school of 4 maybe. I should get natural sand, but do you have any reccomendations for sand? links appreciated.
Also, do corys fight with shrimp? Im planning to have 3 shrimp with the cories.

This is a 10g tank which is really not large enough for most of these fish. A single male betta, fine; with shrimp, fine. But no fish.

Without the betta, nano fish will work here. Ember tetras, dwarf rasboras (like the "chili"), pygmy cories. But any of these in with a Betta is not advisable. I know some claim it can work, but we have had threads from people doing this who suddenly report that overnight the betta killed "x." It happens. And in reverse, a sedate long-fin betta is an easy target for small fish that can decide it is fun to fin nip. Putting fish in such situations just is not humane.

If you decide on nano fish, Quikrete Play Sand is the cheapest good sand for fish. Or one of the aquarium river sands, but not white or black. And it must be inert, so it will not increase GH/KH/pH.

Cories are shoaling, they need larger groups. If you go with the pygmy in the 10g, a group of 12-15. This fish does not do well in small groups. With this, you could have a group of 12 dwarf rasboras, or 11-12 Ember Tetras.
 
This is a 10g tank which is really not large enough for most of these fish. A single male betta, fine; with shrimp, fine. But no fish.

Without the betta, nano fish will work here. Ember tetras, dwarf rasboras (like the "chili"), pygmy cories. But any of these in with a Betta is not advisable. I know some claim it can work, but we have had threads from people doing this who suddenly report that overnight the betta killed "x." It happens. And in reverse, a sedate long-fin betta is an easy target for small fish that can decide it is fun to fin nip. Putting fish in such situations just is not humane.

If you decide on nano fish, Quikrete Play Sand is the cheapest good sand for fish. Or one of the aquarium river sands, but not white or black. And it must be inert, so it will not increase GH/KH/pH.

Cories are shoaling, they need larger groups. If you go with the pygmy in the 10g, a group of 12-15. This fish does not do well in small groups. With this, you could have a group of 12 dwarf rasboras, or 11-12 Ember Tetras.
Quickrete is too big for my use. Too many pounds. would this work?
 
That link took me to the general site and I've no idea which substrate you're thinking of.
 
You could get lucky and get a "friendlier" betta who isn't bothered by other fish, or you could get unlucky and have one who either eats the others or has their fins nipped. I know bettas are cool, I'd love one in my tank but I don't want to have to deal with potential fallout if it doesn't work!

I think go for either a group of community fish (if cories don't get the black sand as above) or just the betta and some shrimp. Less potential for issues.
 

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