Diamond head tetras got something

Maracyn one and two to make sure you have covered gram negative and gram positive.





If caught early, Flavobacterium columnare is quite treatable but if left to progress it can be fatal. To treat flex, purchase an aquarium antibiotic that treats gram-negative bacterial infections. I recommend Mardel’s Maracyn-Two. For serious instances, a combination of both Maracyn and Maracyn-Two may be best to cover any secondary infections. The two medications together will treat both gram-positive and gram-negative bacterium. The antibiotic, oxytetracycline, has been regarded as a very effective cure and may be a key ingredient in some medicated fish foods. If your betta is still eating, feeding these medicated fish foods, or soaking your own pellet foods in an appropriate antibiotic will help to get the medicine into his system faster thus increasing his likelihood of recovery. Following the recommended treatment on the medicine box is encouraged in addition to medicating the food. Because the bacteria flourishes in warmer water you may find it beneficial to slowly lower your water temperature over the subsequent couple days. Aim for a temperature on the low spectrum of bettas’ comfort zone. Approximately 75˚F – 77˚F [23.8˚C – 25˚C] is recommended.
 
Ok, I will find an appropriate anti biotic combination as described that will treat gram positive and gram negative bacterium. I will do a 50 percent water change leaving all the fish in the same quarantine. When I add the new antibiotics I will remove the carbon filter. While I go to the store, I will wait to to do the water change until I return with the new meds so they will have some treatment .

Does this sound reasonable?

I will lowere the water temp by stages.
 
Good luck, if you use tetracycline it will wipe the bacteria colony out in the main tank, if you have a issolation tank i would medicate the ill fish in that, and just do some water changes on the main tank.
 
Thanks for your help Wilder.

I called and they do have some tetracycline. Their recommendation was to continue with the Maracyn Plus through the first few days. It is a milder broad spectrum antibiotic, but in some ways that is good, so they believe, because tetracycline is very strong, and I take a chance of killing the fish with it. He recommended that I continue with the treatment that I have started, do a water and filter change at the next treatment scheduled (day three) and reasess. Maracyn (as well as other Mardel products don't require filter changes or kill good bacteria.) I found another little body. It is one of the otos. It was unrecognizable. I had 4 otos. I can only see 2, and I can see that they are ill. One is very white furry. The other has some blotches.

The sick fish (knock on wood with crossed fingers that I have not cross contaminated the big tank) are already in an eclipse 12, as I always quarantine new fish. But I am just learning and implementing good cross contamination protocols.

The die is cast. It is now wait and see.

Thanks, again, for another hand holding in crisis.

I'll let you know how it comes out.
 
Good luck fingers crossed, as columnaris is a nasty desease when it has progressed.
 
Also just to say that I have some antibacterial food on the way. I hope it will be here tomorrow. Do you think I should dip something in the maracyn for them? Freeze dried Tubaflex or brine shrimp? or some cichlid gold mini pellets as is suggested in the betta article?
 
No don't dip the food in that, don't use the food or you will be overdosing them with adding a med to the tank, only use medicated food when you don't add meds to the tank.
 
I need to do some water changes. I have used my python syphon in all the tanks. I have aquarium salt coming, but not sure it will be here today. I believe I will add aquar-sol to the big tank. It had a good water change last weekend. But the coldwater tank needs some attention.

Would running very hot tap water through it do to make it safe for other the other tanks?

The neons may be improving. It's hard to tell yet.

The otos are strruggling. There are three out of the four. The one with the worst symptoms is hiding on the bottom, with some frantic movements occasionally. One is staying at the surface in a hidy spot near the bio wheel. Another is hanging on the tank below him. I would very much like to do a water change, to improve the oxygen levels but believe it would be inappropriate until tomorrow's med addition.

Frankly, the otos look more like ich. Poor things. I am pretty much at a loss. The lfs said it would be best to complete the med treatment I am on. Take care of one problem (the saddleback) first then move to the next if it is a different one. :-( He said saddleback is fatal in a week.

If the otos have saddleback and ich I don't think they can make it to the ich med treatment.
 
Sorry, if you have to preform water changes just add the correct amount of med back to he water removed, the problem with whitespot that it is lethal if left untreated as well, how bad is the itch.
 
I'm not actually sure it is ich. :dunno: Duh

Does the saddleback also get spotty. It looks different than what the neons are showing. Just not certain what. The oto last night that is hiding today had flakey, puffy, white stuff all over. The others look "dusted" to me. Uggh

Can I use aquari-sol a mild anti ich (soluble copper salts) with the antibiotic?

What about a method of disinfecting the water change equipment?
 
Yes disinfect it, itch looks like they have been sprinkled in salt, salt like grains spots, it does sound like itch abit, probably the stress has caused an oubreak and with columnaris very prone to other infections, if there bad you will have to half dose or you will end up losing all the fish, don't like mixing meds, but you could lose them all, increase 02 in the water as the two meds will really take the o2 out,

Other signs for parasite infection are heavy breathing and flicking and rubbing or twitching looking uncomfortable, anyway you can take a pic to show us to see if it is itch.
 
Ok got a better look at the two otos at the surface. It could be the same thing as the neons, just not as advanced. Small white spots/patches that just haven't gotten as advanced as the neons. The other oto is hiding out so I can't get a good look at him.

The otos at the surface are staying in a corner out of the light. It may be the heat they are staying away from--also opposite from the heater. I may have panicked.

The other fish are showing no signs.

Still, can I add aquari-sol to this tank and how can I make the water change syphon usable until I get salt?

I will try a small (10 percent) water change on the quarantine. :D with a small addition of med. Just don't want to overdose.
 
The little whitspots where are they, don't add salt plecs don't like it at all,
 

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